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Temporary Rear Sight for Smoothbore

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JackStones

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I've read one or more posts on this forum (including a few new ones) discussing the addition of rear sights to a smoothbore musket. I understand that some people on the forums suggest using a tang screw as an impromptu rear sight. There are a variety of other suggestions (dovetailing barrel, adding small brackets attached to tang screw, using a magnet, etc.). Most "solutions" involved permanent or semi-permanent fixes. On the other hand, problems can result from any permanent solutions (e.g.- some shooting competitions do not allow such sights on smoothbores; some reenactment groups prohibit such sights for authenticity purposes).

I purchased a smoothbore fusil earlier this year and had difficulty lining up shots, even using the tang screw as a reference point. After some thought, trying out some recommendations, and a little wandering around a hardware store, I discovered something that that will work as a passable rear-sight for the smoothbore that can be added or removed in a matter of seconds.

Here's what I did. I purchased a pack of small self-adhesive vinyl bumper pads (see below) for a couple bucks at a local Home Depot (but available at many hardware stores). I then cut one in half with a small pocket knife (using the point to break through the harder cover). I then removed the cover to the adhesive and placed on the musket. Each half was positioned at the rear of barrel near the rear tang screw, with a small "empty" channel between the two halves which afforded a clear view of the front sight. I could make the channel larger or smaller by moving the half-pads outward or inward. I could also make the “wings” formed by the half-pads taller or shorter by moving them further forward or backwards on the barrel. I could also work on windage by moving the half-pads to one side or the other of the barrel. After playing around and shooting with them on a couple occasions, I figured out the best configuration for placement of the half-pads for my particular musket to allow for accurate (at least for me - ha) shooting at 50 yards.

The vinyl pads are clear, are essentially small buttons, and aren’t noticeable unless someone is standing close by the gun. The adhesive sticks pretty well to the "in the white" a/k/a non-blued/browned barrel of my musket. Though the adhesive sticks well, you can still take off the pads relatively easily (in fact, you can usually just scoot them around slightly on the barrel for fine tuning). When removing, you can wipe off the remaining adhesive with a slightly-moist corner of a rag or with a spittle-moistened finger. At one point, I was afraid that heat might affect the pads, but I live in a desert climate and have used the pad-sight in 100-plus degree temperatures with over 40 shots in a hour (and a hot barrel as a result) without any effect (though, my pad-sight is behind the "chamber"). These pads have worked well in below-freezing temperatures, too. I've utilized them on dozens of occasions to good effect. When cleaning the gun, the sights can be removed (or stay on, if you are careful). I purchase the clear pads, but they come in other colors (e.g.- black) which might work better with some firearms or some weather/lighting conditions. I haven't tried them out on blue/browned guns, but they seemed to go on and off easily without damage when I tried it on another gun.

I think the best analogy for these pad-sights is to “post-it” notes. In regular use, they will stay in place; however, they can still be readily removed, and they don’t leave any permanent or serious mess/damage when removed. The pads can provide a better, more-adjustable rear sight than a tang screw and don't involve any permanent modification to the firearm. Being easily removed, shooters could use this method to use a rear sight for the practice range (or hunting), while removing it for competitions or reenactments that forbid such sights. Importantly, the pads cost about 20 cents each, and can be quickly installed when needed (especially if you have some prepared in advance); you just need to remember your preferred placement location and configuration, but that shouldn't be too difficult. I thought I'd pass along the idea to the readers of this forum (since I've gotten plenty of ideas from others on this site).

Here's a link to Home Depot's version:

Adhesive Pad
 
Neat idea. Not an 'authentic' look but should work. And, methinks, might be useful for training oneself to learn the anchor point and hold for accurate shooting without a rear sight. That is something I have not yet accomplished. Do they come in black?
 
I guess I'm never too old to learn a new trick or two! :wink: Thanks for sharing. :hatsoff:
 
They've worked in below-freezing weather, but I haven't tried them in rain (I live in the desert and we don't get much of that - ha ha). Plus, they are cheap, and you can simply stick another set on in a couple minutes if the first one doesn't work well.

It took me a little time and effort to find the correct placement point for the half-pads, but once I got it down, I remember where the placement point is located by eyeballing it. For instance, for me, my gun shoots way left at 50 yards so I have placed mine about a quarter-inch to the side of the tang screw for windage, and about about a quarter-inch forward for elevation.

As Rifleman suggested, now that I know where the (non-existent) rear sights "should be", I can improve my aim even if I'm not using these half-pad sights because I can visualize them.
 
Great Idea! I think I'll get some next time out to the hardware store. I'm using the tang screw slot, but have been wanting something "better". This will do the trick.
 
Another way to make a removable rear sight is to use the small but extremely powerful neo magnets mounted on an brass octagon that matches the octagon of the barrel and fabricate your rear sight groove on that.The first one I made I used too few magnets ,so I used a rubber band back up.
When I sold the gun the sight went with it.
Nice way to be able to shoot in sighted and the trade gun ,no rear sight matches with just one gun.
 
Very Nice, good idea.

I made a rear sight from quite thin brass sheet attached with very thin black double-stick tape.

BartSr
 
Neat idea but with my eyes it needs to be mounted where the barrel octagon turns to round. :wink:

I just have some .040” brass hammered into an “L” super-glued to the barrel. I have a groove filed into the barrel tang for aiming without a rear sight.
 
I went a different way with my Brown Bess. I use the bayonet lug as an aimpoint/reference point and my eye is the rear "sight." To ensure my eye is more or less in the same place each time, I borrowed the idea of an anchor point from archery.

I found my most comfortable and natural cheek position on the stock,and marked where the right corner of my mouth was at on the stock. I then drilled a tiny pilot hole and glued and tapped in a brass tack there.

I'm not shooting sub MOA's, but it is somewhat more consistent shot for shot than before...and doesn't detract from the historical look of the gun. JA
 
I had a rifle sight that had a serpent going out of it. I drilled a tang screw hole to mount it on the tang. The hole was drill on the flat between the site plate and the serpent as far from the plate as possible but staying in the flat area. It's placed with the serpent head pointed at the butt. The top of the sight plate will just be above the breach enough to get a sight picture. Put the sight groove into the plate. To sight in the gun keep the sight snug but loose enough to pivot right or left. Once your group is centered, tighten it down and take a scratch awl or a pointed punch and place a small dot or indent on the tang at the snakes nose. Now you can remove it for use with no sight and replace it precisely where it needs to be for windage accuracy. Elevation you'll need to raise or file the front site. You can also take a brass or steel flat stock the width of the tang, bend it to proper angle, drill, file a rear facing point or mark. Follow the above procedure to install and sight in. Keep it plain or shape and engrave it, you're making it. These may be more proper in appearance and should hold better accuracy.
 

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