Assume this an aluminum mold just like the other TC, and even with an aluminum mold, find it hard to imagine how one could ‘wear’ off .005” of material hand casting lead.
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TC maxiball too tight in a TC Hawken ?
- Thread starter Sudsy
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And that's exactly what I'm going to do.
Anyone have any experience shooting this Lee Minie from this gun?
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010208130
I agree
I'm thinking that over the years it's developed just enough of a warp to throw it off just enough to screw it all up.
The last time I poured I did have a few more then I remember in the past that had a trace of wings at the seam (they went back in the pot).
Combine that with what was obviously an oversize bore in the old Traditions and it all makes sense.
I have used the Lee Modern Minie in different calibers in TCs with some success, though not as easy to find accuracy as with the Maxi Ball.
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Real lead will not wear out a mold , get some known (soft lead) bullets . I've been casting close to 55yrs and have never experienced what your getting for results . I have got some mislabeled ingots but that showed up when testing after something being hard starting (also a lot of experience) said not pure as advertised . Can not say after you tested this applies to your dilemma ,but after 55yrs I guess I've not seen everything . Good luck finding the answer /Ed
@Sudsy,
Let me mount my soap box once again.
Most of the questions could be answered here by first using a Vernier caliper. Inexpensive digital calipers that measure inside, outside, and depth with acceptable accuracy cost about $20 and is one piece of measuring equipment we all should have in our tool box.
Measure the land to land diameter of the bore and the groove to groove diameter. The base bands should be just under the diameter of the land to land bore measurement. The top band should measure the groove to groove measurement. What are the measurements of your rifle and maxi-ball?
What you may have is a T/C barrel that is on the minimum tolerance for their barrels. Your mold may be on the maximum tolerance limits for the molds.
Let me mount my soap box once again.
Most of the questions could be answered here by first using a Vernier caliper. Inexpensive digital calipers that measure inside, outside, and depth with acceptable accuracy cost about $20 and is one piece of measuring equipment we all should have in our tool box.
Measure the land to land diameter of the bore and the groove to groove diameter. The base bands should be just under the diameter of the land to land bore measurement. The top band should measure the groove to groove measurement. What are the measurements of your rifle and maxi-ball?
What you may have is a T/C barrel that is on the minimum tolerance for their barrels. Your mold may be on the maximum tolerance limits for the molds.
As a retired tool maker I have to say this is the way to figure out what you have. Or continue going in circles and posting.
I normally don't respond to threads like this because there have been a few times I had to defend my statement to the arm chair experts. My patience any more is non existent. On the other hand the thread starters have a habit of doling out critical information like it is a trade secret.
Scota@4570
54 Cal.
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If the bullets are oversized there might be something holding the mold open a smidge. Crud, a bur around an alignment pin hole, or a bit of lead can do this.
You need a way to measure things accurately. A digital caliper is a must have tool. IF you are old timie a veneer is just as accurate. Shooter/ reloader needs a micrometer too.
The bottom half of the bullet should got down the with no or thumb pressure. The top band should engrave. Assuming that is true then you should be fine. If it is mega hard load you have something wrong with the bore. Fouling? Rust? Something like that. The bore was one size as manufactured. It was not tight down the bore and loose at the muzzle.
Maxi bullets were never easy to load, for me and my 1975 TC. They needed a clean bore and good lube. IF you want something that loads easy over fouling a Minie of some sort is the answer.
Good luck
You need a way to measure things accurately. A digital caliper is a must have tool. IF you are old timie a veneer is just as accurate. Shooter/ reloader needs a micrometer too.
The bottom half of the bullet should got down the with no or thumb pressure. The top band should engrave. Assuming that is true then you should be fine. If it is mega hard load you have something wrong with the bore. Fouling? Rust? Something like that. The bore was one size as manufactured. It was not tight down the bore and loose at the muzzle.
Maxi bullets were never easy to load, for me and my 1975 TC. They needed a clean bore and good lube. IF you want something that loads easy over fouling a Minie of some sort is the answer.
Good luck
Crud holding mold halves apart is a very real possibility, but OP stated he was using the same lot of bullets. Said the bullets went right down one barrel but not the other. Although the OP asked for advice, he didn’t exactly seem open to being asked questions he thought he answered. He drew his own conclusions, though I still can not imagine wearing out an mold that I believe was hard anodized. Something one would need to have in hand so it could be examined and measured.
I'm going to muddy the water a bit. Why do you need a Maxi-Ball in the first place? Maybe if you hunt griz, but for deer, a round ball is all that is needed.
Thank you. Exactly what I was curious about.
Round ball and patch it is.
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That's an easy one ,need is not in play here , it's what I want that matters most and most here subscribe to that thought process. At least it works for me/Ed
This is not intended to be rude or crude in any fashion to anyone.
Actually, the easiest way to figure this out from the beginning is to look at the facts and go about this in a logical fashion to find a solution.
1. OP stated his hand cast Maxi Balls fit well in his Traditions but are too tight for his TC.
2. OP never stated that he tried some commercially made Maxi Balls (or any other conical) to ascertain proper size and function through his Hawken.
3. By doing the above it would have given a definite as to whether it is the bore or his mold and go from there.
It really is that easy.
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Can you borrow a 50 cal mold from someone to test it? Seems like the easiest idea to me. Or just buy some precast and go from there . Right now you are just guessing. I know this isn't what you want to hear but all muzzleloaders aren't the same. A Spanish made one may be different than an American made one
Where are you getting your casting lead? If it doesn’t have a pedigree it probably has some tin and or antimony in it, which make the pills larger in diameter and harder
For those who are replying without reading the thread....
It's been settled - after measuring, the mold is throwing slightly oversize rounds even with pure lead (probably due to age and a bit of a warp)
The old Traditions had to have had a slightly oversize bore
Last I'm giving the old TC mold to the guy who bought my Traditions and going to round ball and patch.
It's been settled - after measuring, the mold is throwing slightly oversize rounds even with pure lead (probably due to age and a bit of a warp)
The old Traditions had to have had a slightly oversize bore
Last I'm giving the old TC mold to the guy who bought my Traditions and going to round ball and patch.
Mike in FL
45 Cal.
ETipp got upset.
No sir, didn't get upset at all. Simply amazed at the unnecessary goat rope that was going on like a dog chasing its tail.
