TC #13 Bore Cleaner

[Walks with fire]

Does anyone use or used in the past the TC #13 bore cleaner? I want to start using something else but not sure what to try next. I think it may be leaving a residue in my 1/66 twist rifle. Shoots good when clean and fresh then after a few shots it goes wild. The bad part is I just sent my lock to TC for the upgrade hammer and frizzen so I can't try something else just yet. Anyway whats your opinion on #13? What do you use between shots for swabbing?

 

[Blizzard of '93]

When plinking I always dry patch between shots with my .50 1-48 twist. After about 20 shots I scrub the barrel with Go-Jo (white) and brush the drum channel. I use 3f powder. Works for me.

 

[Blackpowder Injun]

gojo the hand cleaner? does it do good for ya? Might give it a try...

 

[Raynor]

I swab between shots with 3 parts water to 1 part Ballistol. Sometimes even 50/50, works for me. Clean at the end of the day with the same thing and then swab the bore with straight Ballistol for storage. :thumbsup:

 

[renovato]

Before switching to Ballistol and water, I used Hoppe's black powder solvent and lube. I especially liked that it didn't leave your hands a greasy mess when lubing patches or swabbbing in the field. A lot of lubes are a mess to handle. It wasn't a great solvent though. Hot soapy water was what I preferred for cleaning.

Ballistol is a Godsend though. As a patch lube, it gives me the best accuracy I've found so far, and as a solvent mixed with water, it made cleaning an easy task instead of a chore.

 

[bob1961]

have always used #13 since i started m/ling in 2003 between shots at the range....one wet patch of #13 before going home to clean with hot water and a bore brush at home then hops gun oil in the bore and i'm done :v ............bob

 

[mmahlock]

I use it exclusively for cleanning all my rifles and pistols. I found over the years that after cleaning and drying with TC #13 there was no latter rust growth in barrel when they were stored for extended periods of time when lubed liberally with grease. No matter how dilligent I was in drying after cleaning with water or other cleaners over time there was rust growth no matter how much grease I put down the barrel after cleaning.

 

[Slamfire]

Like you I believe that No. 13 cleans better'n Hoppe's 9+. But I'm an oil soap and hot water cleaner, followed up with 91% isopropal alcohol, to dry with. Then I protect the bore with bee's wax. :winking:

 

[roundball]

Does anyone use or used in the past the TC #13 bore cleaner? I want to start using something else but not sure what to try next. I think it may be leaving a residue in my 1/66 twist rifle. Shoots good when clean and fresh then after a few shots it goes wild. The bad part is I just sent my lock to TC for the upgrade hammer and frizzen so I can't try something else just yet. Anyway whats your opinion on #13? What do you use between shots for swabbing?

It's excellent, but remember it's just a cleaning agent...it seems to really strip the metal so don't put it up without lubing the bore.

PS:
Hoppes No9 Plus BP Solvent & Patch Lube will let you "shoot all day" without wiping beteen shots, regardless of what time of year / weather / humidity....(NL1000 will also let you do that until the humidity gets low & dry, then it's not wet enough)

 

[voltagehound]

I have been shooting/hunting for about 20yrs. I have always used wonder lube and #13 for care of my rifles. I have a .54 GPR I bought 12yrs ago. I shoot 85gr. goex FFF a 530 ball and a .15 patch. When I go to the range usualy I can shoot most of the day without swabbing. At the end of the day I will swab the barrel and wipe off all the powder residue with #13 then coat every thing with wonder lube and have never had any problems.Well at least not from lube or cleaner. good luck

 

[arcticap]

I don't believe that TC #13 completely removes all the layers of Pyrodex fouling, but I've seen reports that it does a better job of removing real black powder residue.
I've sometimes also noticed that a thin film of white residue can get left behind by the TC #13.

 

[catman]

I have now switched to spit patch between shots (only because my ML rifles likes it and so do I and it works for me) and the tried and true Hot soapy water for the final clean, then the bore butter coat in and out. It works for me...
Our for father's have used spit and hot water for a long time.

 

[catman]

I have now switched to spit patch between shots (only because my ML rifles likes it and so do I and it works for me) and the tried and true Hot soapy water for the final clean, then the bore butter coat in and out. It works for me...
Our fore father's have used spit and hot water for a long time.

 

[PitchyPine]

Does anyone use or used in the past the TC #13 bore cleaner? I want to start using something else but not sure what to try next. I think it may be leaving a residue in my 1/66 twist rifle. Shoots good when clean and fresh then after a few shots it goes wild. The bad part is I just sent my lock to TC for the upgrade hammer and frizzen so I can't try something else just yet. Anyway whats your opinion on #13? What do you use between shots for swabbing?

It's excellent, but remember it's just a cleaning agent...it seems to really strip the metal so don't put it up without lubing the bore.

PS:
Hoppes No9 Plus BP Solvent & Patch Lube will let you "shoot all day" without wiping beteen shots, regardless of what time of year / weather / humidity....(NL1000 will also let you do that until the humidity gets low & dry, then it's not wet enough)

Thanks,

 

[Sharp Shooter]

TC #13 is Great!!! I love it. It is also food grade rated.

 

[Landngroove]

Put me in the Hoppes #9 Plus Black Powder Solvent and Patch Lube column. I find it removes fouling, without adversly affecting accuracy, and is an excellent patch lube.

 

[Mad Monk]

Sharp Shooter,

T/C had once stated that the Number 13 Bore Cleaner is food grade. That is true to a point.

Check the back label. "Contains: Polydimethysiloxane in an aqueous solution. Non-Toxic"

Polydimethysiloxane is nothing more than silicone oil. Food grade in that it is sometimes used to lubricate food processing machinery. Last time I looked the FDA allowed up to 600 parts per million in any food that may have come in contact with the machine lube.

The liquid is at least 90% water and about 10% silicone oil.

This type of "lube" has also been used in machine shops during the machining of metal parts. Used as a combination tool coolant and metal shavings remover. It also acts as a rust/corrosion inhibitor on the parts machined using it.

Use it in a fouled bore and then try another bore cleaner. You will find that the Number 13 Bore Cleaner is sometimes marginal in its ability to remove black powder bore fouling. The silicone oil actually kills the wetting action of the water in which it is mixed. It is not an aqueous solution as the label states. It is an emulsion. It is this emulsion that allows it to coat the metal surfaces with a coating of silicone oil.

The fun part is the claim, "All-Natural". Prior to 1947 this polydimethysiloxane did not exist, at least in this galaxy. Dow-Corning developed it when they played with modifying silicone for glass manufacturing.
My joke with the buckskinners was that you know it is "all-natural" cause it comes from a Dow-Corning plant. These big chemical plants have tank farms.

 

[HardBall]

Sharp Shooter,

T/C had once stated that the Number 13 Bore Cleaner is food grade. That is true to a point.

Check the back label. "Contains: Polydimethysiloxane in an aqueous solution. Non-Toxic"

Polydimethysiloxane is nothing more than silicone oil. Food grade in that it is sometimes used to lubricate food processing machinery. Last time I looked the FDA allowed up to 600 parts per million in any food that may have come in contact with the machine lube.

The liquid is at least 90% water and about 10% silicone oil.

This type of "lube" has also been used in machine shops during the machining of metal parts. Used as a combination tool coolant and metal shavings remover. It also acts as a rust/corrosion inhibitor on the parts machined using it.

Use it in a fouled bore and then try another bore cleaner. You will find that the Number 13 Bore Cleaner is sometimes marginal in its ability to remove black powder bore fouling. The silicone oil actually kills the wetting action of the water in which it is mixed. It is not an aqueous solution as the label states. It is an emulsion. It is this emulsion that allows it to coat the metal surfaces with a coating of silicone oil.

The fun part is the claim, "All-Natural". Prior to 1947 this polydimethysiloxane did not exist, at least in this galaxy. Dow-Corning developed it when they played with modifying silicone for glass manufacturing.
My joke with the buckskinners was that you know it is "all-natural" cause it comes from a Dow-Corning plant. These big chemical plants have tank farms.

I don't know what all that means but... I know that TC #13 didn't seem to clean any better than a cheap water/soap mix in my rifles.

 

[Rebel]

That's pretty much what it means. And Water is Food Grade. :rotf:

 

[longcruise]

I've used #13 and it was just fine for swabbing fouling between shots.... but, so is plain old water :winking:

I usually use homemade "moose milk" (cutting oil and water 1/10) cause it's cheap and it works. What was posted above makes it seem like it's the same stuff as #13. :shocked2: