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TinStar

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When stitching leather for bags; shooting, shot, or ball...how do you gents prefer to do it and with what? Two needle stitching? Stitching awl? Preferences? Preferred thread?

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!
 
That's a wide open one,,
When you go on a date, what do you prefer? Blonde Brunette or Redhead?

I prefer a running stitch with 2 needles, I can control tension better and the seams stay tight.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com...aspx?navlocation=left&feature=Complex_Link_13

I've used a baseball stitch and a whip stitch as well as throwing a cross stitch in for decoration.

I get a lot done with Artificial sinew twisted and re-waxed but many don't like it because of PC issues, but I can break down AS into 5 single strands if the "large" is used or just use the 3 strand small. And I have used modern Nylon Upholstery thread, (heaven forbid) but only in cases of non-visible seams.

A lot of the choice is all about how your making something, some bags have no visible threaded seams, it's all done on the inside.
Some place the stitching outside, visible and decorative.
Then there are the "stitch counters", where a reproduction item absolutely needs to have X amount of stitches per inch,,,
 
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I do two needle because it works for me and is strong. My thread has gone from artificial sinew to other 'stuff'. But currently I like hemp. I have a ball of twine that can be unraveled to almost any thickness I want. Very strong stuff and looks good. And, inexpensive.
 
This is the best $17 you'll ever spend if you're interested in stitching leather. More about saddle stitching (two needles) than any other source. Saddle stitch is the strongest you can do.
 
TinStar- you need to tell us more about your persona or what period you want to re-create. Linen thread and two needles is fine for most purposes but a whip stitch with real sinew might be more pc under certain conditions.
 
crockett,

I am looking at the French & Indian War period or just before. I don't reenact so being 100% perfect is not my goal.

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!
 
I like a cross stitch and a whip stitch, but today my cobra 4 has to do all my stitching for me.Bad hands.
 
bpd303 said:
Because the sewing machine was invented in 1790, I say perfect...

Only problem, the lock stitch from sewing machines will absolutely unzip if you break a thread during hard use. Saddle stitching (2 needle sewing) has no such tendency. Anything I need to rely on gets saddle stitched, while the sewing machine is reserved for decorative items.
 
sewing machine
bpd303 said:
Because the sewing machine was invented in 1790, I say perfect...
With respect - while the sewing machine was first invented in 1790 (possibly earlier - http://inventors.about.com/od/sstartinventions/a/sewing_machine.htm )
The first viable machine for sewing was not used until 1830 and it was never popular or widely used.
Elias Howe was the first (well maybe Singer was) to invent a fully functional two thread machine and even that design was not used in any great amount until the mid 1850's when Singer beagn production.
So no machine sewn goods are not "correct" for pre-1850 periods and even after that parts such as buttonholes were sewn by hand until the 1870's or so.
As for dedicated leather sewing machines they did not get developed until the 1870's when Randall began producing their needle and awl machines, so again machine sewn leather goods would not be "correct".
Of course using a machine to sew with today is only "incorrect" if that matters to the person using it or when doing an educational display.
 
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BrownBear said:
bpd303 said:
Because the sewing machine was invented in 1790, I say perfect...

Only problem, the lock stitch from sewing machines will absolutely unzip if you break a thread during hard use. Saddle stitching (2 needle sewing) has no such tendency. Anything I need to rely on gets saddle stitched, while the sewing machine is reserved for decorative items.

BB - again with all due respect, but lock stitch leather machine seams generally do not unzip that easily despite "common knowledge" - this observation is based on 45+ years doing leather repairs in which picking stitches is a common task. When I first apprenticed to an old time harness/saddle maker (Amish) one of my first jobs was to pick the stitches out of a bin (3'x 3' x3') full of harness - since then I've picked thousands of feet of machine sewn threads.

As for the OP's question - the saddle stitch was and is commonly used for white man made goods and is one of the best. As noted by crockett though IF PC/HC is a concern than the stitch will depend on who did it - Indians for instance seldom used anything but the whip stitch or running stitch so if one were to make an item that was supposed to be Indian made then the whip stitch would be first choice whether using thread or real sinew.
 
LaBonte said:
.... so if one were to make an item that was supposed to be Indian made then the whip stitch would be first choice whether using thread or real sinew.
I've often wondered how many white man made items were stitched with sinew. On the eastern frontier it seems unlikely, to me. Anyone have any references concerning this?

Spence
 
double needle...I learned this stitch as a boatswain's mate, along with round, flat, baseball and shoemaker's.

Each has a purpose, but I believe the double needle shoemaker is the best for leather that is stressed.
 
LaBonte said:
BB - again with all due respect, but lock stitch leather machine seams generally do not unzip that easily despite "common knowledge"

Hmmph... I wonder if it boils down to the stitch/machine being used. Over the years I've had machine sewing in everything from knife sheaths to holsters and boots unzip like a teenager with his first score. Dunno enough (or anything) about the machines and stitches that were used, but it sure sent me in with two needles to do the repairs.
 
I don't know what kind of thread I use, it is something that I bought on one of my many stops at Dixie Gun Works. I have not made that many things of leather but those that I have, I have first wet the leather to soften it, then clamped it into alignment. Be careful with your clamping or you could leave permanent clamp marks on your leather. I then put in pre-punched holes with an awl and used two needles to sew the leather together. I space my stitches by eye. It avoids the machine stitched look and if you have a good eye, it looks very even but not so even that it looks like machine stitching. I like it and it works for me. What more could I want. :hatsoff: Here's a thumb to my nose for the stitch counters. :cursing:
 
With light weight leather I use a stapler just outside the stitch line to hold things together then punch through with a large triangular needle.
For heavy leather I just hold together the best I can and using the drill press drill my holes. The holes do not need to be large and this method allows even spacing. I carry the drill press along on a pack mule when trekking and trapping. :wink:
 
TinStar said:
When stitching leather for bags; shooting, shot, or ball...how do you gents prefer to do it and with what? Two needle stitching? Stitching awl? Preferences? Preferred thread?

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!

Once you learn the process of two needle stitching you will only use a stitching awl if totally necessary!

The two needle process, to me makes a better and a much easier stitch once you catch on to it! IMHO
 
Well getting back to the original question. I would try to get heavy linen thread. Joann Fabric has big spools for around $1 so it is inexpensive and pc. On the Linen thread- I'd use it with a two needle method (shoestring style) on a finer quality hunting pouch or any smaller items. If a more rustic hunting pouch or knife sheath is desired, it looks to me that a plain running stitch with a leather/rawhide thong was pretty common. This is the type of stitch that uses one needle that goes in one hole and out the next- the most simple method. It is not a whip stitch (going around the outside edge).
On sinew- I would think that a European person would acquire such an item from a native person and a whip stitch would be used.
 
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