Springfield Sear question

[Pigman]

I have an Armisport 1861 springfield. Its sear wore out and I ordered a replacement. The only problem is that the leg on the sear that the trigger contacts is a different shape. The Sear in mine can best be described as flat on the top and bottom. The replacement one is flat on the top and rounded on the bottom.

What do I do?

Thanks,
Mark C. Foster

 

[J.D.]

Install it and shoot it, in good health.

The rounded bottom of the sear bar may provide a smoother trigger pull, but shouldn't make any difference in any other way.
J.D.

 

[Zonie]

The main thing about replacing this arm is to make sure it isn't being depressed by the trigger when it's installed.
There should be a tiny bit of clearance, or play in the trigger when the lock is at the half cock and full cock position.

Without this clearance, the sear will not engage the half cock and full cock notches in the tumbler fully.

zonie

 

[Pigman]

The new sear will not clear the trigger when it is installed. The Sear that was in it seems to have been ground flat on the bottom so that it could clear the trigger.

I am wondeing if the original sear had to be ground down so that it would fit. And if I should do the same with the new one.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[J.D.]

It would depend on how much material needs to be removed from the sear.

If only a few thousanths, grind the sear, if closer to 1/32 of an inch, IMHO, I would remove some material from the top of the trigger bar.

With the both the new sear, AND the old sear requiring removal of material from the sear bar, I suspect that the problem is with the trigger.

BTW, you mentioned that the sear wore out. I don't think I have ever worn out an internal lock part, unless the lock was defective, or of poor quality.

What is the problem with the "worn" sear?

If the nose of the sear is worn, a new one may, or may not solve the problem, since the full cock notch may also be worn. The worn sear may be a symptom of some other problem....or a sign that the person who ground down the sear bar may have botched an attempt at stoning the sear nose, and/or, the full cock notch.

IF the lock won't stay cocked, the trigger MAY be holding the sear too close to the edge of the full cock notch, or won't allow the sear to engage the notch at all.

More info, please?
J.D.

 

[Pigman]

I have had this springfield over 10 years and it was used when I got it. I am not sure of how old it realy is.

The old sear wore out on the "nose", the part that engages the tumbler. I noticed it was a problem when firing it. When you pulled the trigger it would stop at half cock. When examining the lock I found the damage to the sear.

I also examined a friend of mines Armisport springfield that is about as old and it has the same flat ground sear.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[J.D.]

Does the sear engage the half cock notch with the lock out of the gun?

The "worn" or rounded sear nose should not cause this problem.

 

[Pigman]

A more complete description:

After you move the hammer to full cock and pull the trigger. about 1/2 of the time it will stop at the half cock position. The "nose" of the Sear should be pointed so it fits into the tumbler. This one had banged aginst the tumbler too many times and the point was gone. When I put the new Sear in the lock works fine. But it wont fit in the stock because of the rounding on the leg of the sear.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Rebel]

If it works fine out of the stock maybe you just need to remove alittle wood so that it fits right and doesn't hit wood in the stock.

 

[J.D.]

If that is the case, just grind the new sear bar to match the old one.

One word of caution on over tightening screws.

Screws that are cranked down too tight can cause binding that will restrict the movement of various parts, so just snug down the screw, just enough to hold everyting together, but not tight enough to cause binding.

Over tightening the screws attaching the lock to the stock can also cause binding, so check the lock inlet for areas with some "shine" or some indication of moving parts rubbing the wood. or even indication of non moving internal parts compressing the wood.

If there are indications of contact, just scrape away the offending wood. It helps to coat the areas of the lock that appear to be in contact with the wood using some sort of transfer color. Dry erase markers, lamp black, lipstick, or nearly anything that will transfer color will work.
J.D.