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jethro224

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Seemed like I was doing everything right... nothin' blew up. :thumbsup:

I loaded with 20 grains of Goex 3Fg, .375 balls, Crisco. Tried the CCI #10 caps first and they went on TIGHT! I had to really push on 'em with the end of my capper to get 'em to seat.

I need a different capper! The straight line one I was using didn't want to go in there to start the cap. Had to kinda wiggle it just so...
What kind of cappers do you guys recommend?

I tried to try the Remington #11 caps but they were too loose and I didn't think they would stay on so I went back to the CCI #10's.
Any tips?

Worse than tight caps, I had a small issue after loading. The gun did not want to cock. Cylinder didn't want to turn. I found that by smacking the barrel hard with my hand whatever was catching would let loose and it would cock. If I let the hammer back down it would stick again about half the time. As soon as I fired it once it would free up.
I only loaded and fired two cylinders/12 shots but it did the same thing both times. Any insights?

I was shooting at 15 yards.

The first 6 shots I aimed straight at the middle of the dot. They grouped high and left.

I sat the dot on top of the sights and fired 2 more. Still a bit high and left.

The last 4 I aimed at the bottom of the black cross.

Not too bad I guess considering the sights wouldn't hold very still today. :haha:

scan-6.jpg
 
Take it apart and make sure the cly bolt isnt hanging up it may have to much grease or lube on it or just a little to tight and may have to be thined down a little where it goes though the frame
 
Yeah, as far as cappers I like the snail looking one made by Ted Cash. It's made for pistols. TOW has them.

I like Remington #10's for these shooters.

If your wedge is in too tight it will bind up the cylinder and cocking will be difficult.

And your experience with shooting high is par for these pistols. Aim at the bottom of the target like you discovered and you'll do fine.

Have fun... :grin:
 
Sights won't hold still? I know what your mean. I'm considering replacing the sights on all of my guns because the sights they now wear just wiggle all over the place. :haha:
 
I finally got the sights on my guns to settle down, but now the targets are moving all over the place. If it isn't one damn thing it's another... :idunno:
 
Sounds like the fragments of a cap managed to get inside your action and jam it. I had a 1974 Euroarms 1851 that I bought used. When I got it, it would sometimes jam when I tried to cock the hammer. It turned out there was an old cap stuck inside of it.
 
It definitely was not a cap fragment stuck in there as I had never fired the gun before. It worked fine before I loaded.
At first I thought it was a lead ring that fell down in when I loaded so I took the gun apart and looked it over. Couldn't see anything wrong. Put it back together again and it stuck again. Whacked it again and got it cocked and fired all 6 shots without a problem.
Then I cocked the hammer and let it back down a dozen times. Worked fine until I reloaded, then same thing. Sticking until I fired then all was well for the rest of the shots and it stayed freed up after shooting. :idunno: :confused:
When it does it, it feels like the bolt(?) isn't letting go of the cylinder. I can't figure out why it would only happen right after loading tho.
 
Another thing, while loading with the gun on half-cock the cylinder did not stick at all. Only after bringing it to full-cock and lowering the hammer. It might cock again, it might not. Until I'd smack it hard with my palm then whatever is sticking drops out and it cocks easy.
 
Pietta's are known for having bad bolts. I had to tune mine because it would peen the sides of the detents on the cylinder.
 
It sounds like your arbor is a bit short and the wedge might bit in too far closing the cylinder gap.

You might be letting the "tip" of the ball stick out of the cylinder face, allowing it to hit the edge of the barrel as it revolves into battery.

Remington #10 caps are the best IMO, the other brands cause a number of misfires in my C&B revolvers.
 
Nope, it wasn't either of those things.

The wedge was just thru far enough to catch, could see light between the barrel and cylinder when held just so.

The balls were definitely rammed down below the level of the cylinder face too. Prolly a good 1/4 inch. Am I ramming them in too far/hard?

And, like I said, it spun freely on half-cock. Only binds up after I load and then bring it to full-cock and then let the hammer back down. Soon as I shoot once, it stays freed up until I load again. Then, as soon as I full cock it and let back down, the same problem.

I'll try the Remington #10 caps. :thumbsup:
 
If those "tight" no. 10's were not fully seated on the nipple they may not have been letting your hammer travel far enough forward to let the cylinder stop bolt reset. It may have been right on the edge of dropping in therefore the success of the hard smack method.
 
Ah-Ha! Finally I think maybe that's the answer! I never would have thought of that. Thanks.

I'll get the Remington #10's before I try again. :thumbsup:
 
Jethro, I use the Cash inline capper too, but I did have to modify it slightly. The little flares on the ends of the feed lips are just a tad to long to comfortably fit in the nipple recesses. Use a file and take those flares off, so when on end the tip looks rounded. Fits just perfect after that, and won't effect the function at all.

Hope Runnball's suggestion solved you issue!
 
Thanks. I have one of the Ted Cash teardrop cappers but it doesn't work properly. I talked to Ted last year at Friendship and was supposed to bring it by for him to see what was wrong with it but I never got back over there. I'll take it in a couple weeks. Might get another straight one too to file on. :hmm:

I found a tin of Remington #10 caps this afternoon so I'll try 'em out soon as I get a chance. Hope they work right.
 
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