Guest
I know with modern shotguns people say not to shoot too many slug out of the barrel because of it messing stuff up but can you shoot slugs and shot out of black powder shotguns with no problem?
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You mean like a foster-style slug that are the most common in shotshells? No, I wouldn't do it nor would it work because it would be hard for it to be close enough in size to the bore so even if you managed to load it down the bore it wouldn't seal off gases. But you can shoot roundball out of your blackpowder shotgun which is like a slug and will knock the manure out of deer :shocked2:. Most people just use their blackpowder shotguns for shot loads for small game and upland bird hunting. I don't think I'd be able to shoot my double barrel well enough for deer hunting if I was shooting ball.
Guest
Yeah i did some research and I saw that people will just leave out the over the cushion wad and allow the shot to stick into the cushion wad making a version of a wad.
Fishblade2 said:
What?
Respectfully suggest you stop listening to that source of (mis)information and spend more time here. Using a ball in a smoothie is quite common. Decent, hunting, accuracy can be obtained. Look at some of the older threads on this subject. Take time to learn then shoot and enjoy.
Guest
I didn't mean a version of a wad. I mean it makes a version of a slug.
Lonegun1894
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I will second what Rifleman1776 said about not listening to that source. If you use shot, unless you use a container or pouch, or something else to keep it in one piece, the shot will just spread as normal. With all due respect, whoever your source is, well, they're blowing smoke... Quit listening to them before they get you or someone standing close to you hurt.
Flintlock 54 said:
I did not say that. :nono: I said it is bull..stuff.
Please do not misquote me. :wink:
Fishblade 2, welcome to the forum, I hope you can pick up on some pointers here to get you going in the right direction with shot and ball in a ML, a glop of wadding and shot will not make much of a projectile if that is what was being described, there should be a lot of info in some old threads on this type of thing, if you do not see anything start a new post with a specific question and the members will be able to give some sound advice and you can proceed as needed with further questions.
Guest
where is this post? does anyone know in particularly which posts would cover this quite well because there is soooo many posts on this site on just smoothbore alone. Thanks!
When the shot fails to separate it is sometimes called "slugging". You can use the search feature by clicking the "search" tab at the top of any forum "page" to find posts containing the word.
"Slugging" is not something I have ever heard of anyone trying to do on purpose. A round ball would make a much better projectile.
"Slugging" is not something I have ever heard of anyone trying to do on purpose. A round ball would make a much better projectile.
Fishblade2 said:
Round balls work just as well and are often heavier than the slug. Also remember than the slug is designed for use with Smokeless and shotgun loads produce little pressure at the muzzle. Heavy BP loads may well deform the skirt.
Some shoot the RB patched, best option in a double, others shoot them with just wads.
I would not shoot steel shot from a ML shotgun unless it has choke tubes which indicates it was made with steel shot in mind.
Dan
I'm still working out what an "over the cushion wad" might be.
With a shot load: first the blackpowder goes in. Then there normally is an overshot card that is about 1/8" thick and on top of that a 1/2" thick fiber wad (occasionally lubed). Then the shot. On top of the shot is a 1/32" thick card to hold the shot in place.
With a round ball it's just blackpowder and then a tight fitting round ball wrapped in a lubed cotton patch. No wads or cards.
For a slug it's a replacement of the shot in the first example. The originals like the 1898 Brenneke had the wad attached top the slug itself (with a wood-screw). This gave stability like an arrow or spear with the weight forward.
You can shoot a round ball without a patch in place of shot (or with shot) but it won't be as accurate as a patched ball. And there's no reason you can't use a lead slug - Lyman and others used to sell molds for Foster style. One looked like a big pellet. With an unpatched slug you may get some leading in the bore - but your shoulder wouldn't tolerate a fast enough load to get severe leading. An occasional scrubbing with J-B Paste will keep that down.
With a shot load: first the blackpowder goes in. Then there normally is an overshot card that is about 1/8" thick and on top of that a 1/2" thick fiber wad (occasionally lubed). Then the shot. On top of the shot is a 1/32" thick card to hold the shot in place.
With a round ball it's just blackpowder and then a tight fitting round ball wrapped in a lubed cotton patch. No wads or cards.
For a slug it's a replacement of the shot in the first example. The originals like the 1898 Brenneke had the wad attached top the slug itself (with a wood-screw). This gave stability like an arrow or spear with the weight forward.
You can shoot a round ball without a patch in place of shot (or with shot) but it won't be as accurate as a patched ball. And there's no reason you can't use a lead slug - Lyman and others used to sell molds for Foster style. One looked like a big pellet. With an unpatched slug you may get some leading in the bore - but your shoulder wouldn't tolerate a fast enough load to get severe leading. An occasional scrubbing with J-B Paste will keep that down.
Guest
over the cushion wad is a wad over the lubricated fiber wad you are talking about. I'll just put the video link on here of the guy who posted a replied comment to me telling me of this and of him reloading the gun so you can see what I was reading.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BzdL37aMrU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BzdL37aMrU
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Steve Tobler
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Fishblade2 said:
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It also shows him loading some brown type of powder directly out of the horn. Two mistakes in the first 30 seconds.
He does mention an over cushion wad in the write-up as having been omitted in the video. I don't bother with that; but then my fiber wads are only lightly lubed and with a stiff waxy type around the edges so they aren't so mushy as to let the shot bed down into them. If you soak the wad and it tends to fall apart on loading - a 1/8" or 1/32" card over that may be a good idea. Patterning will tell.
He does mention an over cushion wad in the write-up as having been omitted in the video. I don't bother with that; but then my fiber wads are only lightly lubed and with a stiff waxy type around the edges so they aren't so mushy as to let the shot bed down into them. If you soak the wad and it tends to fall apart on loading - a 1/8" or 1/32" card over that may be a good idea. Patterning will tell.
Steve Tobler
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Some information from Track of the Wolf website;
Shotgun Loading instructions:
Charge your 12 gauge gun with up to 3 drams (82 grains) of FFg black powder. Use Fg powder for larger bores or heavier charges.
Seat a .125" thick "over powder" card firmly on top of the powder charge. This thick card seals the bore, is waterproof and keeps the powder dry.
Insert a .500" very thick fiber "cushion" wad and press it in place. Soak fiber wads in cooking oil when hunting, or use our Bore Clean when trap shooting.
Measure 1 ounce of lead shot. Never use steel shot in antique muzzle loading guns. Increasing the shot charge decreases velocity.
Seat a .025" thick "over shot" card last. This stiff card holds the shot in place, but won’t leave a hole in your pattern.
Prime the pan only when on the firing line or in your hunting field.
Hope this helps ...
:wink:
Shotgun Loading instructions:
Charge your 12 gauge gun with up to 3 drams (82 grains) of FFg black powder. Use Fg powder for larger bores or heavier charges.
Seat a .125" thick "over powder" card firmly on top of the powder charge. This thick card seals the bore, is waterproof and keeps the powder dry.
Insert a .500" very thick fiber "cushion" wad and press it in place. Soak fiber wads in cooking oil when hunting, or use our Bore Clean when trap shooting.
Measure 1 ounce of lead shot. Never use steel shot in antique muzzle loading guns. Increasing the shot charge decreases velocity.
Seat a .025" thick "over shot" card last. This stiff card holds the shot in place, but won’t leave a hole in your pattern.
Prime the pan only when on the firing line or in your hunting field.
Hope this helps ...
:wink:
It does kinda sound like an extra wad of some sort in there? most folks I know cut the fiber wad in half and use only 1/4 inch fiber wads (it also works well with the way they package them 1000 OP wads,1000 OS wads, and 500 fiber wads) between the shot and over shot card, the listing above pretty much gives the common order many tinker and adjust from there, and as mentioned some replace the shot with a ball,I have found this to work pretty well, I uisually do not use a finer wad anymoe but just the over powdr and over shot wads, and usually do not shoot enough in a day for fouling to be an issue which is what the lube on the fiber wad is intended for dealing with, there are no absolutes here just work up what ever gives the desired results one omly needs to be aware of the total weith of the package and what the particular gun will take in the way of powder charge and weight of load, you can geberaly use more shot than one will find in a cartridge gun of the same bore, it will just string out more as the shot increases, but there is a point that one should stop adding more shot/powder as in any ML to avoid excessive breech pressure.
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