Shooting an original smoothbore

[Arkie72327]

I have an 1816 contract musket made by Pomeroy and converted from flintlock to percussion (cone-in-barrel conversion). It has a very good bore in it, and I intend to shoot it some. It is 69 caliber, and I measured the bore at the muzzle and it is .692". This will be my first experience shooting smoothbore percussion. I see balls from .662 up to .690 listed for 69 caliber. Should I be thinking about a .690 ball and no patch or .662 ball and ticking? What about loads and powder - Fg or FFg?

 

[Sam squanch]

I have read that the cone in barrel conversion is not that strong. If it were mine I’d go easy on the powder charge.

 

[BillinOregon]

I would certainly choose the smaller-diameter ball to allow for experimenting with patch thickness. The .690 is so close to bore diameter that I can imagine sticking a ball in even a lightly fouled barrel.

 

[Some_Mook]

Start small - you can always adjust up more easily than you will find it to be going the other way. FWIW, 65-70 grains FF with a .010" patch over a .662 ball would not be a terrible place to start. If it was me, I'd make sure a 16ga patch jag would run all the way to the breech with a wet .010" patch on it before I'd try an actual charge. Muzzle diameter on an antique is probably not the best indicator of the true diameter of the full length of the bore.

 

[Juice Jaws]

I have an 1816 contract musket made by Pomeroy and converted from flintlock to percussion (cone-in-barrel conversion). It has a very good bore in it, and I intend to shoot it some. It is 69 caliber, and I measured the bore at the muzzle and it is .692". This will be my first experience shooting smoothbore percussion. I see balls from .662 up to .690 listed for 69 caliber. Should I be thinking about a .690 ball and no patch or .662 ball and ticking? What about loads and powder - Fg or FFg?

Remember you are not going after Elephant's , I would think a ,662 ball , .10 patching, and 70 gr of power would more than enough. Like the post above said begin small.

 

[gemmer]

I'm very leery about cone in (Belgian) conversions. I would send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt and have him checkout out. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Arkie72327]

I'm very leery about cone in (Belgian) conversions. I would send the barrel to Bobby Hoyt and have him checkout out. Better safe than sorry.

I build and repair my own stuff, I feel pretty confident that the barrel is substantial enough for light loads as the bore is unpitted from muzzle to breech and the threads appear to be intact on the "bumped up" part of the barrel. I am putting a Ampco beryllium nipple on it for shooting purposes. I am thinking I will get .662 balls, and shoot a couple without patching so it doesn't build up much pressure for the "fouling" shots and reinspect everything including taking the barrel out of the stock and mic'ing the barrel at the breech end and check the nipple for tightness. If everything is still good, I am thinking maybe 50grains of Fg (larger grain size = lower pressure) and a patched ball for my "normal" load. Not looking for velocity and accuracy, just wanting a gun that should be functional to "ride again"

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I'd asses the bore condition then shoot it with out hesitation if it passes a visual test. I live life close
to the edge. They call me EVIL MIKE "DANGER" BROOKS.