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What @SDSmlf said.
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Set Trigger
- Thread starter jambuster
- Start date
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I bought every thing to build this gun in the late 90's and never got to it ( family, work , travel, etc. ). Now I own my own business and have a great shop out back. I can play with this stuff every day so I am going to get started . This kit ( i use this term loosly I just bought the parts the guy at the Log Cabin Recommended) was set up for percussion and came with a small siler lock. I am going to order a small siler flint lock and sell the other if I can.
Here is something I have posted a few times. Not your exact trigger, but if you follow, should get you in the game.
Not sure that what follows helps, but here is a description of how I adjust my TC and similar set triggers. Apologize that the photographs are not the greatest.
In the first photograph the arrow is pointing at the screw that will adjust the amount of tension on the rear trigger. You can back this screw off to reduce the amount of force to ‘set’ the trigger, but you still need enough tension or force to trip the sear lever on the lock. Once you have found the minimum force required (trial and error adjustment of the screw), tighten the screw a half to a full turn (safety margin). Confirm it is still satisfactory, and then you may want to lock it in place with something like nail polish (I use red so I can easily see it). Make sure the trigger is fully locked into place in the stock when testing its function. If it is lose or out of position it will perform different.
To adjust the ‘hair’ trigger, with trigger assembly out of the gun, set the trigger and turn the screw between the triggers until the trigger pops. Then back off the screw a minimum of a half turn, though I would suggest a full turn for safety reasons. Lock in place with nail polish.
Not sure that what follows helps, but here is a description of how I adjust my TC and similar set triggers. Apologize that the photographs are not the greatest.
In the first photograph the arrow is pointing at the screw that will adjust the amount of tension on the rear trigger. You can back this screw off to reduce the amount of force to ‘set’ the trigger, but you still need enough tension or force to trip the sear lever on the lock. Once you have found the minimum force required (trial and error adjustment of the screw), tighten the screw a half to a full turn (safety margin). Confirm it is still satisfactory, and then you may want to lock it in place with something like nail polish (I use red so I can easily see it). Make sure the trigger is fully locked into place in the stock when testing its function. If it is lose or out of position it will perform different.
To adjust the ‘hair’ trigger, with trigger assembly out of the gun, set the trigger and turn the screw between the triggers until the trigger pops. Then back off the screw a minimum of a half turn, though I would suggest a full turn for safety reasons. Lock in place with nail polish.
Thanks guys
SD that is very helpful
That there is awesome info!Here is something I have posted a few times. Not your exact trigger, but if you follow, should get you in the game.
Not sure that what follows helps, but here is a description of how I adjust my TC and similar set triggers. Apologize that the photographs are not the greatest.
In the first photograph the arrow is pointing at the screw that will adjust the amount of tension on the rear trigger. You can back this screw off to reduce the amount of force to ‘set’ the trigger, but you still need enough tension or force to trip the sear lever on the lock. Once you have found the minimum force required (trial and error adjustment of the screw), tighten the screw a half to a full turn (safety margin). Confirm it is still satisfactory, and then you may want to lock it in place with something like nail polish (I use red so I can easily see it). Make sure the trigger is fully locked into place in the stock when testing its function. If it is lose or out of position it will perform different.
To adjust the ‘hair’ trigger, with trigger assembly out of the gun, set the trigger and turn the screw between the triggers until the trigger pops. Then back off the screw a minimum of a half turn, though I would suggest a full turn for safety reasons. Lock in place with nail polish.
Sooty Scot
40 Cal
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I can't tell from your (OP) picture but, if all of the contact and pivot surfaces are not polished smooth, you could disassemble the trigger mechanism (after taking several reference pictures, from all angles), then CAREFULLY polish those surfaces.
Polish manually (power tools turn good parts to scrap way too quickly.)
Be particularly careful not to round any edges.
Polish manually (power tools turn good parts to scrap way too quickly.)
Be particularly careful not to round any edges.
Thanks, Sg
Mgbruch
40 Cal
Function aside, I think the geometry on those triggers is a problem.
The bottom edges of the trigger bars rest above the trigger plate. Even taking most of the metal off the trigger bars, the sear of the lock is still going to need to be up a ways on the stock. And sears aren't.
I make my own for the rifles I build; and the bottom of my trigger bars rests just 1/8" higher than the bottom of the trigger plate. The photo shows a couple of sets, not quite ready to go on a gun. As they are, the tops of the trigger bars will still need 1/32" to 1/16" of metal taken off when I put them on the gun and fit them to the lock.
When I started making my own triggers, I used a Davis set as a guide.
Lay out your rifle, on paper, or on the stock, or both. Do a complete layout of the whole gun. That will show you where the bottom of the stock will be, where your lock will be, where the sear will be... and where your triggers will be. You'll know, then, if they can work.
The bottom edges of the trigger bars rest above the trigger plate. Even taking most of the metal off the trigger bars, the sear of the lock is still going to need to be up a ways on the stock. And sears aren't.
I make my own for the rifles I build; and the bottom of my trigger bars rests just 1/8" higher than the bottom of the trigger plate. The photo shows a couple of sets, not quite ready to go on a gun. As they are, the tops of the trigger bars will still need 1/32" to 1/16" of metal taken off when I put them on the gun and fit them to the lock.
When I started making my own triggers, I used a Davis set as a guide.
Lay out your rifle, on paper, or on the stock, or both. Do a complete layout of the whole gun. That will show you where the bottom of the stock will be, where your lock will be, where the sear will be... and where your triggers will be. You'll know, then, if they can work.
Attachments
I have no set trigger. The Investarms gun I bought has nothing, no trigger, no spring, no adjustment screw (either one spring tensioner screw, shear) no shear adjustment screw. It was all removed by the previous owner. I could buy a different double set trigger assembly, I'd like to buy the parts to make mine whole but most of all, I'd like to have an idea why someone would take the parts out. Ignorance is one, laziness is another. Still there should be a practical reason. Any ideas. Anyone do this to their own gun. Or know someone else who did. Thanks, Steve
