Rusty Bore,

[ozarkjim]

I have a Lyman GPR that I found in a pawn shop at a great price! I want to use it as a back up to my other one, it has a very rusted bore and I would like to ask if anyone has used evapo-rust on or in a barrel, and did it do the job? Thanks, Jim.

 

[SDSmlf]

Have used EvapoRust in bores a few times. Removes the active rust, but do not expect it to remove any pits or rough spots. And if you get EvapoRust on any of the blued surfaces, it will quickly remove the bluing.

 

[B P Arn]

I would just soak it in WD40 (or equivalent) and scrub it with a bore brush until the visible rust is gone.

Chances are good that it will shoot just fine.

 

[azmntman]

This works. Go to the feed store and get a gallon of molasses. Mix it 8-1 water to molasses and plug the nipple, fill the barrel and give it 2-3 days. NO MORE RUST. Like Evaporust it will affect bluing. Wont remove pits. I have used it on stuff from a RUSTY cylinder in a ROA the wife left out for 2 years to a OLD lock found in the woods by a 1800's rail road bed. The cylinder was absolutely amazing as far as rust. It did come out dull blue as I soaked it. The lock looks good, if I had a key it might open! Cost ya about $4-5.00 and you'll have plenty left. Report back!

 

[rich pierce]

Rust is one problem. The pits left behind are another. If you find it loads hard or tears patches it will need to be lapped at the very least. The entry level method is to get valve grinding compound at the auto parts store and load a tight jag/patch combo with it and do 200 strokes.

 

[ord sgt]

If the bore has rust, get a sturdy cleaning rod and jag. Wrap some 0000 (4) steel wool around the jag and add some WD 40. Work the cleaning rod up and down the barrel for a few minutes. Remove the steel wool and replace with a fresh piece and continue again for a few minutes. Remove the steel wool and start using cleaning patches with your choice of cleaning solution. Change patches until one comes out the same color as it was when it went in. Then get a small light and look into the bore. It should be shiny at the muzzle and as far down the bore as you can see. If not, repeat the process until the bore shines.

 

[hanshi]

If you go the molasses route make sur to have your wife bake up some "cat-head" biscuits so none goes to waste. If the bore is still problematic after rust removal there is always the option of having it bored "smoothbore", or as a last resort, re-rifled to a larger caliber.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I like green scotch bright pads to remove rust. You need a cleaning jag smaller than your bore so a small square of green pad will go in the barrel. I think I used .45 jag in a .54 barrel and oiled up the scotch bright pad really well, I gave the pad abut 100 strokes.. Use a piece of maroon if you need to get more agressive but be forewarned it will remove a little metal as well, try 10 strokes to see how that works with the maroon pad.

 

[Throwdown58]

This works. Go to the feed store and get a gallon of molasses. Mix it 8-1 water to molasses and plug the nipple, fill the barrel and give it 2-3 days. NO MORE RUST. Like Evaporust it will affect bluing. Wont remove pits. I have used it on stuff from a RUSTY cylinder in a ROA the wife left out for 2 years to a OLD lock found in the woods by a 1800's rail road bed. The cylinder was absolutely amazing as far as rust. It did come out dull blue as I soaked it. The lock looks good, if I had a key it might open! Cost ya about $4-5.00 and you'll have plenty left. Report back!

You know I thought I had very little to learn in this space, but you guys keep surprising me all the time. I have never heard of this, like ever.