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Restorations, what to look for, what to avoid

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Joined
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Mountains of Central Pa
Jumping off the other restoration thread, what do you look for in a restoration project and what should you avoid?

How badly would the bores be rusted to not attempt a restoration, and how much rust can be removed, provided there is enough barrel thickness? If the locks arent working, cant they be restored, or must you look for new locks that will fit the project gun? What kind of cracks in the stock can safely be repaired and when are you looking at going with a new stock? If the stock is short, can it be lengthened an inch or two and still look good and function, are you again looking at a new stock?
 
I restored a fowling piece that had been made into a lamp. There was a hole drilled in the breech for the cord and the rear of the barrel was rusted out to a larger diameter than the breech plug. Bobby Hoyt worked another of his miracles on it. There are few things that can't be fixed but the question is is it beyond the skills or finances of the person wanting the restoration. I have a '61 Springfield that is completely broken through the lock area, 5 pieces. I intend to reassemble it using epoxy and steel rods for reinforcement and make a shooter out of it. Is it worth the work? Of course not but I see it as a challenge. I have a friend that rebuilt the stock on a British Sea Service flint. It literally had as much epoxy in it as wood when finished but it didn't look too bad and won a few matches for him before he sold it. I guess the real question should be is do I have the strength and good judgment to walk away from this before it's too late. :D
 
Sounds like you are referring to restoring an antique to shooting condition. I’ll not get into whether this should be done. I’ll just say I would only restore very common late guns to shooting condition.

Your mileage may vary. In my experience:
1) unless it appears to be near perfect, don’t trust the stock to be sound enough to shoot and handle and stand up to it. Restock the gun.
2) completely restore the bore whether smooth or rifled.
3) expect to do a lot of work on the lock or locks if it’s a double.
 
There are two types of original restoration number one is too save the history and heritage of the gun and number two is to renew parts with the sole idea to use , If restoring to save the history of the gun restore and clean the original parts but never take it too far a gun that is 150 years old should look its age and if in doubt leave it be
Number two is restoring to use and this is where the guns history ceases when original parts are renewed with new castings and wood ,the biggest mistake is to recut the checkering there nothing feels worse than holding crisp checkering on a old gun . These restorations are wanting a gun that is new it now has lost its character and becomes gun of parts
The condition of many are in a poor condition most are scrapped but too me these are the ones that need to be saved , those in better condition it only is applying cosmetic to a certain standard.
Feltwad
 
Before Restoration

P1010007.JPG

After Restoration
P1010002.JPG


This gun was later submitted for proof and passed
Feltwad
 
Hi,
Wow, you want somebody to write you a book. What others have not written is the first step in restoration is knowing what you have and doing research. If any parts need replacing or repair, you better know what they should look like. Since you live in central PA, take the gun to Dixon's Muzzleloading Shop in Kempton and get their opinions.

dave
 
Were those barrels cleaned up and browned again? New locks? How did you get those old nipples out, there is nothing to get hold of.
These barrels were more rust than pitting with loose ribs First after checking that there was no charge in the barrels and applying heat removing the ribs and the nipples also the ramrod pipes . Now I had two separated tubes which I mounted each in a lead covered jaws of a vice ,applying heat to the breech plug and using a tool which fitted onto the hook and a smart type with a hammer removed the plugs Taking a home made tool I lapped out the barrel The tubes then had the cleaned plugs replaced and joined together on a jig so they were regulated to the point of aim , joining barrels to each other must be exact if one barrel is higher that the other the ribs will not lie flat and other problems. With the barrels now joined the surface rust can be removed and the barrels browned using a Damascus browning solution this is my personal method which I have used for many decades
Feltwad
 
Feltwad has experience and expertise that is quite uncommon and likely took decades to develop. I don’t know of many gunsmiths who are able to tear a double shotgun down to this extent and put it back together in great condition.
 
I agree, Feltwad can turn trash to treasure. What is interesting, he joined the barrels together before removing the rust. I would have thought it better to remove the rust and have fully cleaned and polished barrels before soldering them back to the rib. I assume he also used different locks for the restoration, the original ones look badly abused.
 
I agree, Feltwad can turn trash to treasure. What is interesting, he joined the barrels together before removing the rust. I would have thought it better to remove the rust and have fully cleaned and polished barrels before soldering them back to the rib. I assume he also used different locks for the restoration, the original ones look badly abused.
The hammers look new, at least; they've a slightly different profile.
Everything were the original parts on the gun before restoration , nothing new was used when relying the ribs I only clean the part of the barrel to be soldered . The barrels are cleaned and polished after they are Joined to clean them before joining will cause you a lot of trouble when browning .
Feltwad
 

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