Renegade replacement stock from Pecatonica River

[Lippy984]

Merry Christmas all,
So a year ago I bought a stock that Pecatonica makes to replace the TC Renegade stock. This is my first time ever working with a stock, besides my GPR kit I put together almost 20 years ago. I’m a mechanic, not the greatest carpenter, but I like tackling jobs.
Although it is a pre-carved stock, I realize it’s certainly not “drop-in” ready. The barrel fits tight, so that’s one question I have about inletting/fitting the barrel. I have to squeeze it in with a good amount of pressure. Do I sand at this point with long even strokes, just enough to drop the barrel in easy enough?

now onto my oops…I figured step one was to mount the tang. Because I need to sit the tang in deeper, I tried carefully to chisel the wood. Well, it split the top section that sits under the lock. Is this repairable? Or did I just really screw this thing up? And what would be the best way to carve out material to fit the tang?

 

[cajun]

Are you using Inletting Black?

 

[necchi]

Is this repairable? Or did I just really screw this thing up?

Honestly? That's bad.
Band-aid repairs are of course possible,
Just like pulling an engine with a tree limb and a com-a-long is possible.
(until you find out it's easier to "drop" the engine from the frame)
It would have been nice if you'd have done a little reading/research before ya started.

And what would be the best way to carve out material to fit the tang?

SHARP wood cutting tool's! And cutting the wood away

Here's a hint, you just stop for a couple days, and let folks com-along to see this and offer suggestions. When you start seeing repeated answers, that's a good time to begin the repair.
Hint #2,
Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle, an illustrated instruction manual, by Dixon, Ehrig, and Miller - Track of the Wolf

 

[waarp8nt]

Unless I'm misunderstanding something, to me the chip will be hidden on the finished product, so it's not the end of the world. I would secure it with a good quality wood glue or epoxy. Use a minimal amount of glue and clamp it well...don't over do it and crush the chip or dent the stock. I have a couple of spring loaded wood clamps, similar to what is used on a battery charger. While the glue sets up, take the time to order a quality book on long rifle building. The book necchi suggested is a fine choice - Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle, an illustrated instruction manual, by Dixon, Ehrig, and Miller - Track of the Wolf

Quality sharp tools are a must. I would rather own a quality set of used tools, than a new set of mediocre tools. Chisels are no exception to that rule. I was a tech for 21 years. Remember your not removing gasket material, your removing small slivers of wood, not chunks.

 

[cajun]

I would have to agree with "Sharp tools", get yourself a "good set of chisels" and if you can afford the "best" get those. Stay away from Harbor freight chisels, you will spend more time trying to keep a sharp cutting edge on them then your project. I would also agree with taking time off especially when you get frustrated. Now on your opps, you may get away with using a good epoxy adhesive. I don't think it's that bad. But remember, this is wood, and wood expands and contract. I would contact the dealer you bought the stock from and seek their advice. In closing there are numerous YouTube videos out there on building muzzleloader that will help you as well as members here. Good Luck and keep us advised of your project progression.

 

[Lippy984]

Yeah I’m pretty busy with the kids, that I probably jumped into this too quick. And I definitely agree with having sharp tools. I have and old chisel set from my grandpa, and it has a good sharp edge. I don’t think I put enough thought into what I was doing at the time

 

[deerstalkert]

from what i can see most of that splinter will be removed by the time you finish inletting the lockplate and bolster . not a disaster at all. proceed slowly and go ahead and glue up that splinter so you can have a stable platform to work on.jm2c

 

[Nazgul58]

Not a problem. Super glue it in and proceed. I have done similar things several times and it is not a problem.

Don

 

[Trot]

I know you said your chisels are sharp, but looking at the cuts at the back of the breech area of the stock I can tell they are not sharp enough. A truly sharp chisel will slice the wood away, you won't have that chattering.

 

[nkbj]

Watching with interest, Lippy.
I'm another who's been threatening to restock a Renegade.

 

[Lippy984]

I know you said your chisels are sharp, but looking at the cuts at the back of the breech area of the stock I can tell they are not sharp enough. A truly sharp chisel will slice the wood away, you won't have that chattering.

I’ll spend some time cleaning them up and make sure they have a better edge. I was also concerned that maybe I shouldn’t be going downward in that area for the tang. But maybe I was trying to do too much too fast

 

[Coinneach]

Not a problem. Super glue it in and proceed. I have done similar things several times and it is not a problem.

Don

I disagree, don't use Super glue on wood, there are are far better wood glues.

 

[Kappa]

I’m working on a USA CVA and had an oops putting on trigger guard, someone here said that repairs are part of the history of the gun. Accept, take your time and learn. Everyone starts out as wood butchers.

 

[Kappa]

I’m working on a USA CVA and had an oops putting on trigger guard, someone here said that repairs are part of the history of the gun. Accept, take your time and learn. Everyone starts out as wood butchers.

 

[Peregrine]

The other thing I notice is the chisel is 'digging in' your end grain. Flip your chisel so the bevel is against the face your are removing and the flat of the chisel is towards the chip. It will slice the chip off and push the chip away from the cutting surface rather than digging in. A sharp chisel is a pleasure to use. Use a good wood glue on that chip and you will be able to chisel it as needed once the glue cures. You will get this. Don't give up.

 

[Lippy984]

The other thing I notice is the chisel is 'digging in' your end grain. Flip your chisel so the bevel is against the face your are removing and the flat of the chisel is towards the chip. It will slice the chip off and push the chip away from the cutting surface rather than digging in. A sharp chisel is a pleasure to use. Use a good wood glue on that chip and you will be able to chisel it as needed once the glue cures. You will get this. Don't give up.

Thank you. It’s little tips like that I was unsure of.

 

[bubba.50]

And your chisel should slice or shave, not chop.

 

[Dave Dworshak]

chislel sharpening stones and proper grinding wheels for your chisels are as important as quality chisels themselves. have fun. take your time. most of the work is already done.

 

[deerstalkert]

just another comment on chisels. they should be so sharp they scare you. laying the flat against your work and pushing should produce an almost transparent curl of material.
looking at your pictures, i say you need to lay your chisel in the bottom of your barrel channel and make a cut that will create a finish point on your vertical work on the breach inlet.
that way as you cut vertically again you won't blow through into the rod channel.
always make a terminal cut that stops travel of an opposed cut. clear as mud?
don't ask how i learned this.

 

[William Lincoln]

be selective on your glue. Epoxy resin two-part glue might need to be sanded, but
it is water-proof and stronger than the parent wood.