Removing hammer

[Columbus]

I have a percussion lock and want to remove the hammer but it's a really tight fight on the shaft. Don't want to scratch or break anything prying it off; is there some secret way to do this or is it just a matter of brute force?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Somebody will probably come up with an expert response. But, I have had the same issue. There is usually a very tiny bit of 'play' once the screw is removed. Patience and much wiggling will eventually get it off. I don't recommend the use of a pry of any kind. :nono:

 

[Col. Batguano]

Yes. Pull the internals out of the inside first, (be particularly mindful of the fly) then use a drift punch to drive the tumbler shaft through to the inside. I just lay mine over the top of a couple of blocks of wood on the bench rather than driving it to the floor through open vice jaws. Brass punches roughly the size of the square opening are the best so as to not mar it.

 

[Columbus]

Yes. Pull the internals out of the inside first, (be particularly mindful of the fly) then use a drift punch to drive the tumbler shaft through to the inside. I just lay mine over the top of a couple of blocks of wood on the bench rather than driving it to the floor through open vice jaws. Brass punches roughly the size of the square opening are the best so as to not mar it.

Was afraid of that - no wiggle at all on the hammer. Figured I'd end having to pull it out by taking it all apart. Just needed a but more access to the primer feeding mechanism but I can work around the hammer if need to. Don't have a mainspring vice and don't want to bugger up any parts by using vice grips or pliers.

 

[ohio ramrod]

When working on locks I like to do the work inside a large cardboard box turned on it's side. That way if springs go"poof",I can find them. Just yesterday I was at a shoot and the full cock notch on the tumbler would not hold ( The lock has over ten thousand shots). So I went home to take apart the lock and file the notch with a diamond file to restore the proper angle. I had the file with me but I will not disassemble a lock with out a way of recovering the tiny parts.It only took about fifteen minutes to fix it but if I had lost any of the small parts it would have been a real problem. :idunno:

 

[Scota4570]

Make a square ended punch out of a larger round punch. It should fit the mortise in the hammer pretty closely. Obviously small enough to not get stuck. Strip the lock of everything except the hammer and tumbler. Use a couple of metal pieces to support the plate. I have a couple of steel V-blocks I set on end. Weight of the anvils is a good thing. Then tap the square end of the tumbler with your square punch. It should come free pretty easy like a couple of taps from a small hammer.

Never pry. Never use a thin round punch inside the threaded hole. There is a good chance you will break the back out of the tumbler. Soft materials like wood for backing give and are not so effective. The fussing around with it may cause the damage you are trying to avoid. Same with the steel punch, I find being decisive works better that brass or aluminum that might deform. The threaded hole should be countersunk anyway, deforming it should not be a problem.

 

[fleener]

might consider taking a wooden shim and put it under the hammer, see if you can wiggle it off and using the shim.

Fleener

 

[Grimord]

A good dose of penetrating lubricant might help along with some judicious tapping on the hammer spindle with a brass punch.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, a good lock will have a hammer that is a light press fit with the square drive on the tumbler.

This press fit should not allow the hammer to be easily pried off using wedges, screw driver tips or similar things.

The tumbler and its square drive is hardened steel and usually, the area with the square hole in the hammer or cock is left unhardened.

While this gives the hole in the hammer the ability to expand as the hammer is pressed onto the tumbler drive, it also means, if the hammer or cock is pried off using a wedge or screw driver tip the hole can be damaged.

The resulting damage can eliminate the press fit and create a condition that will become looser and looser with repeated firing of the gun.

This is the reason the square drive on the tumbler should be driven out of the hammer with the use of some sort of metal drift or punch. Preferably one that has a square shape on the driving end, slightly smaller than the square hole in the hammer.

As others have said, the proper way to remove the hammer is to remove the mainspring, sear and, if it has one, the bridle that is holding the tumbler in place. Then, supporting the lockplate on opposite sides of the tumbler and with the underside of the hammer resting against the lockplate, the tumbler is driven out of the hammers drive hole.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Don't have a mainspring vice

In that case, put the project aside for now. Order a mainspring vice, about $15.00, and a good lifetime investment. Then when you get it read what others have posted and finish the job. Doing it that will will save a lot of grief.

 

[MSW]

Rifleman1776 is right on point ... this is not a job to attempt (or even contemplate) without the proper tools... the vise will save the spring, and a boatload of cussing as well.

 

[Pete44ru]

I've had good luck when removing hammers by doing it the same way I remove the sideplate from a S&W revolver.

I use vibration.

With a revolver, I remove the grips & hold it by the gripframe while lightly & rapidly tapping on the far end of the frame with a screwdriver handle.

With a sidelock, I remove it from the gun & hold it at one end with the lockface & hammer uppermost, while I likewise rapidly tap the other end of the lockplate with said screwdriver handle.

 

[Columbus]

Thanks for all the info. Don't think I'll try to get it off. The cap feeder bar has a link pin that engages a slot/recess on the back side of the hammer. It would be easier to put together with the hammer off but I should have room to line everything up. Just waiting on the part.

 

[M. De Land]

I remove the lock and then hammer cap screw and strike the tumbler axle with a round pin punch that fits down to the bottom of the cap screw hole. Usually the inertia will do it without any levering or prying while holding the lock by the hammer leg in your little finger.
Remove the main spring then cock the hammer and hook your little finger under the cock/hammer leg while holding the punch with the the thumb and first finger of the same hand over a pad on the bench.
Give the punch a whack and the lock should fall away unto the pad leaving the hammer in the crook of your little finger.

 

[william l evans]

take the innerds of the lock off, put the tumbler between two blocks, unscrew the cap screw two turns,
lay a piece of leather on the cap screw, and tap it with a hammer, turn the screw again and tap it again.
do this until the tumbler is free of the slot.