Remington New Army fixed?

[JN01]

OK, today I detail stripped my new Remington. Promptly ruined a screwdriver tip and buggered the slot on a frozen trigger/bolt spring screw. :shake:

After a few applications of penetrating oil, got the screw and the rest of the gun apart. Sear surfaces, and pretty much everything else, seem to be in very good, hardly used condition.

The exception is on the hammer, there is a circular shaped protrusion, half of which is ramped, upon which one of the bolt finger ends rides. The edge of this protrusion looks a little chewed up.

With the gun assembled, I could look down into the gun as I cocked the hammer and see that this bolt finger seemed to slip over the hammer protrusion, allowing the hammer to slip forward a bit. At full cock, you could pull back on the hammer and get another 1/4" of play.

So I figure I'll replace the hammer with a new one with protrusions intact and it will solve the problem.

I wiped down and lubed the parts, put the gun back together (had to wrestle with that main spring a while) and SHAZAM, now it works normally. The bolt finger no longer slips over the protrusion, the hammer stays all the way back when it is cocked, and I can see the sight groove.

Now all that is left is to find some .44 round ball and .45 Colt cowboy loads and it's off to the range.

 

[Zonie]

You don't want to use .44 roundballs in your Remington. They use a .451, .454, or .457 diameter ball.
The .454 usually works best.

When you load the ball into the chamber with the loading plunger, the outside of the ball will be sheared off creating a little lead ring.
That assures the ball is an exact fit in the cylinder with no gaps.

This is important because it seals off the powder from the powder flash of the adjacent cylinder when the gun fires, and it also keeps the ball from moving forward from it's inertia when the gun is fired.

Coat the loaded balls with something like Crisco to lube them.
Have Fun!!

 

[JN01]

I do know that the balls must be oversized, I guess I was speaking in general terms about getting round balls for my .44 revolver rather than the actual diameter.

I guess I do need to be more precise when posting so that others who may read it don't get the wrong idea.

Good looking out.

 

If the bolt finger no longer slips over the lifter protrusion then the cylender is not properly locking. The arm must slip off the hammer for the bolt to snap into the cylinder notch.

Check for proper lockup.

 

[JN01]

Lock up is tight. The finger does slide over the protrusion as you cock the hammer, but at full cock, it snaps back in place to the side (kind of hard to explain). Before, it seemed that the finger wasn't locked into place (at full cock) and would allow the hammer to slip forward 1/4". Everything seems to be solid and in alignment now.