1863 pocket model question

[SwampBilly]

Recently acquired a brand new 1863, 31 caliber of course. ( My avatar picture in fact )

I'm pretty happy with it but it does something I don't believe I have ever seen my 1858 do. When the cylinder is removed on half cock and the hammer is drawn all the way back, the hand moves up into a position that looks like it sticks out further than it would with the cylinder present and the trigger is unable to be pulled until I take my finger and manually push down the cylinder stop bolt.

The gun functions perfectly fine with the cylinder installed. I recently loaded up two cylinders with four rounds ( so as to keep the hammer on an empty ) and aside from relatively horrible accuracy, it functions fine and had a 100% fire on the first drop rate.

Shooting at a pizza box size Target from 20 ft or thereabouts, I was able to keep three out of four rounds on paper.

I certainly won't be going and stalking any deer or hogs with it anytime soon.

 

[45D]

The cylinder notch is the "limiter" for how far the bolt rises through the bolt window. That means the bolt arms (other end) are lower and further back than they would be. At that point, they are under the cam with a square shoulder rather than a "reset relief" which locks everything up. Since the trigger is in the full cock notch, and the hammer is locked back by the bolt, pushing the bolt head down unlocks everything.

Mike

 

[SwampBilly]

The cylinder notch is the "limiter" for how far the bolt rises through the bolt window. That means the bolt arms (other end) are lower and further back than they would be. At that point, they are under the cam with a square shoulder rather than a "reset relief" which locks everything up. Since the trigger is in the full cock notch, and the hammer is locked back by the bolt, pushing the bolt head down unlocks everything.

Mike

That's good to know. I just wondered if something mechanically deficient was going on.