The GPR I bought a few years ago looks to have some pretty nice wood hidden under the factory finish, but I have a few questions about the job. I've redone a lot of M1/1903/etc stocks with great results, but they only had an oil finish, so denatured alcohol and a little sanding did the job without using any strippers. What do I need to remove the factory finish on my rifle, and how much wood do I lose in doing so (if any)?
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Refinishing a GPR
- Thread starter Cowboy2
- Start date
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galamb
58 Cal.
Lyman's do have some nice walnut on many of their rifles.
I have redone a Trade Rifle and loved the results.
It had a (typical) factory type finish that you find on just about every modern firearm - so rather "thin".
I went at it with sand paper (100 down to 320) and actually "lost some wood" on purpose (there was too much in the stock to start with so did some "slimming").
I have redone a Trade Rifle and loved the results.
It had a (typical) factory type finish that you find on just about every modern firearm - so rather "thin".
I went at it with sand paper (100 down to 320) and actually "lost some wood" on purpose (there was too much in the stock to start with so did some "slimming").
galamb
58 Cal.
It was definitely well cured and NOT deep - I'm thinking it was more like varnish. It is possible it was oil based (put on in a controlled process and heat cured (???)) but didn't seem like it to me.
(to be fair I'm thinking back and just don't remember that well - many guns and stocks between now and then)
The course sand paper took it all off without much effort and only went to the finer grades to remove the scratches from the course paper (but the stock was also shaved down in a few places to take the "chunky-ness" out).
This is what was underneath (after refinishing) - this is an "original", from Lyman stock.
(to be fair I'm thinking back and just don't remember that well - many guns and stocks between now and then)
The course sand paper took it all off without much effort and only went to the finer grades to remove the scratches from the course paper (but the stock was also shaved down in a few places to take the "chunky-ness" out).
This is what was underneath (after refinishing) - this is an "original", from Lyman stock.
That's a great looking stock. I can see some nice figure in mine (though I doubt it approaches your stock), and I think some boiled linseed and fine grit sandpaper would really make her shine. Some of the metal and wood fit near flush, but if its a really shallow finish, then I can probably stop worrying and just go to it.
galamb
58 Cal.
I did stain it.
That is two coats of water based ebony (black).
Coat applied, let dry, rubbed back with a course cloth (blue jean material) - repeated for a second coat.
Then multiple coats of tru-oil, rubbed back.
Probably a coat of floor wax over it once it was well cured (months later).
My "final" coat is almost always Johnson's paste wax (floor wax) - usually applied after the first season that the gun goes in the woods, then a coat once a year just to keep the "moisture and cooties" out...
That is two coats of water based ebony (black).
Coat applied, let dry, rubbed back with a course cloth (blue jean material) - repeated for a second coat.
Then multiple coats of tru-oil, rubbed back.
Probably a coat of floor wax over it once it was well cured (months later).
My "final" coat is almost always Johnson's paste wax (floor wax) - usually applied after the first season that the gun goes in the woods, then a coat once a year just to keep the "moisture and cooties" out...
