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Pyrodex?

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Worth it?

  • Yes

    Votes: 15 40.5%
  • No

    Votes: 22 59.5%

  • Total voters
    37

Acohill1

72 cal
Joined
Jan 10, 2024
Messages
160
Reaction score
137
Location
Indiana
Headed to the only dealer I know locally that sells BP and last time I was there I picked out pyrodex before he said he keeps the good stuff in the back. When I put back the pyrodex he remarked that he was really trying to get rid of it. Is it even worth buying a LB incase of emergency? He'd prolly throw it in for 20$ after I buy a few lbs of BP...

do you have to worry so much about tough cleanup with a smooth bore?
How much nastier is this stuff than goex?
 
Headed to the only dealer I know locally that sells BP and last time I was there I picked out pyrodex before he said he keeps the good stuff in the back. When I put back the pyrodex he remarked that he was really trying to get rid of it. Is it even worth buying a LB incase of emergency? He'd prolly throw it in for 20$ after I buy a few lbs of BP...

do you have to worry so much about tough cleanup with a smooth bore?
How much nastier is this stuff than goex?
Yes, you have to worry about cleaning a smoothbore thoroughly if you care about it. I find Pyro to be easier to clean out, but it still must be done well.
 
I don't know what the OP means by "worth it". I think there's enough evidence to justify the claim that differences in cleanup aren't significant, and shouldn't be a factor in whether or not it's "worth it". If he wants to use Pyrodex instead of "real" black powder, fine. Availability is about the only material justification I can think of across the board, though if you want to separate out flintlocks, there is the matter of reliable ignition, which is a justifiable "worth it" criterion. IMO the main reason to use "real" black powder is because that's what these firearms are designed for and because that's what they were used with "back in the day". That's enough for me. I vote against Pyrodex and for black powder.
 
I find Pyro to be easier to clean out, but it still must be done well.
I thought it was harder to clean. I usually use hot water and a jag and patch pump till patch is cleanish. Then wd40 to drive out the moisture and finally a bit of gun oil or something similar till patches are clean to protect the metal. Will that still work?

Sorry guys I'm still pretty new to black powder shooting and this forum. I should have said "buy it?" For the poll not "worth it"
 
I used pyrodex when it first came out and have used it off and on since then. My revolver and old T/C Hawken seem no worse from it after 40 years other than normal wear and tear. I still prefer black but if I find pyro cheap or end up with it in a trade I shoot it up. Just keep it in a sealed container and it ages pretty well too.
 
Around here, only substitute powders can normally be found on the shelves of local stores. But real black powder is easy to order and it’s delivered right to your door.

Pyrodex works fine in percussion guns. It does not work well in flintlocks. Real black powder works fine in both.

Muzzleloaders need to be cleaned properly no matter which powder is used.


If all you’re ever gonna shoot is percussion guns, then either powder will do. If you ever shoot flintlock go with real black powder.

I prefer real black powder for everything because I shoot flintlocks and percussion. Also, I just like to try to be authentic as much as I can (to a point). My vote is for real black powder.
 
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Headed to the only dealer I know locally that sells BP and last time I was there I picked out pyrodex before he said he keeps the good stuff in the back. When I put back the pyrodex he remarked that he was really trying to get rid of it. Is it even worth buying a LB incase of emergency? He'd prolly throw it in for 20$ after I buy a few lbs of BP...

do you have to worry so much about tough cleanup with a smooth bore?
How much nastier is this stuff than goex?
A shop that sells the real stuff? Do tell. The owner of the shop I used to buy local passed early last year. I think the shop in Rushville still does but haven't made it down there yet to see.

I save the real black for my flintlocks and shoot whatever sub I have on hand in my cap locks as that stuff can be found anywhere year round and cheaper. At least for now it can.
 
A shop that sells the real stuff? Do tell. The owner of the shop I used to buy local passed early last year. I think the shop in Rushville still does but haven't made it down there yet to see.

I save the real black for my flintlocks and shoot whatever sub I have on hand in my cap locks as that stuff can be found anywhere year round and cheaper. At least for now it can.
Let me talk to the guy on Saturday and see how much he keeps around and ill send you a pm. I talked to him earlier today and he "wasn't in the shop to see how much he had" so it dosent sound like he sells alot of it or has alot of it.
 
Years ago a friend gave me a pound of Pyrodex. It worked fine in percussion's and was hit and miss in the Flintlocks. Since then the Pyrodex has clumped together rather quickly into a tennis ball inside the can. I can always break it out and smooth it up back to a useable substance in a pinch. At this stage of the game I just stock up on what will work in percussion, flintlocks and in many of the unmentionables of this forum. If stored properly and it's not hard I don't rightly know that there is an expiration of black. It's just easier for me to stock up on one universal powder especially in these times where they over regulate everything on law abiding men and women.
 
Sure , why not ? I got two pounds of Pyrodex back when I got my first muzzleloader, a Traditions Deerhunter, and it worked fine. I have since leaned towards more "traditional" flintlocks and Hawken style rifles and have acquired a good supply of black powder, which I exclusively shoot in those firearms. Still have the Deerhunter and let the kids and guest shoot it with the pyrodex just to save the BP.
 
I usually load my shotgun(s) with BP, I use Goex 3F, for the first two shots (one in each barrel). I want to make damn sure it goes off and I've never had an issue with the Goex. After that, I load from pre-measured tubes if hunting or clay target shooting and those tubes are full of Pyrodex RS. I find that once the gun is shot with Goex I know it is totally dry inside and I do not have any issues with the Pyrodex. For me, the Pyrodex is available locally for a similar price as the Goex, but the Goex I have to order and pay haz-mat and delivery charges. So far this hunting season (which isn't quite over yet), I've used one pound of Goex and 5 pounds of Pyrodex. I get around 90-100 shots from a pound depending on what gauge I am primarily using. This also conserves my supply of real BP for my flintlocks that can't function well with anything else.
 
I used pyrodex when it first came out and have used it off and on since then. My revolver and old T/C Hawken seem no worse from it after 40 years other than normal wear and tear. I still prefer black but if I find pyro cheap or end up with it in a trade I shoot it up. Just keep it in a sealed container and it ages pretty well too.
I can see Flintlock rifles having a problem with Pyrodex but if you are having a problem with a percusion rifle and your caps and powder are OK, it is one of two problems and maybe both? It has to be the rifle or the shooter it is not the pyrodex. The reason I say this as fact is as much of it that I have used with no problem says it all. You give nothing up using it as a matter of fact you gain a little being it is cheaper and usually in stock. I wish people would get their head out of their posterior and realize out sport is minute compared to most other sports and you may be driving away potential members away sport which we definitely do not want. If we get much smaller you may not be able to even get Pyrodex much less B.P.? Just think a little before any damage is done.
 
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