Problem with Neutralizing Casey Plum Brown

[vandeda]

I apologize if this has been asked in the past, but I am having a problem with neutralizing plum brown. I have washed with soap and hot water, washed with baking soda, and rubbed with ammonia (i.e., all basic solutions to counter the acid in the plum brown). However, it's still rusting. It's had 4 washings total but I can't seem to completely stop it. Currently, the parts are in my basement where humidity is controlled with a dehumidifier between 45-50% at a constant 60F. Do I just need to continue to washing until it stops rusting? Its frustrating since I'd like to finish this build, but I just can't seem to fully neutralize the acid.

Thank you very much!

 

[Zonie]

Have you applied the oil which is needed to finish the process?

Without having a protective barrier like oil on the surface, the metal will continue to rust.

 

[vandeda]

I once used Amsoil gun oil, and another time RIG. I typically use RIG on my other rifles that only see occasional use. Thinking about it, the parts sat in my basement for 2 years bare (i.e., no oil and no browning) without developing a speck of rust.

Should i used a different oil?

 

[Zonie]

Those or just common motor oil should do the job.

I have had a few barrels that continued to give off some rusty looking stuff on a wiping rag for a few months after I browned them. After rubbing in some fresh oil I finally decided to let it do it's own thing. Eventually the barrels got to the point that they were no longer causing the rags to get anything to rub off.

 

[Scota@4570]

BC Plumb Brown does that. It does no harm and may help the finish look more dense. Sometimes I encourage it by carding each day with degreased steel wool. Usually it will stop in a couple of days. Just whipe the rust off with oil and fine steel wool. This is a good reason to not asseble the rifle immediately.

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

I recently browned a tomahawk head with Birchwood. Casey. When I finshed rubbing it out, I dunked the whole thing in a bucket of used crankcase oil. Heated the piece a little and just let the oil sit on the metal. I repeated the process the next day and wiped everything down. No problems.

 

[1861colt]

When I first started working for Green River Forge, we used the Plumb Brown and I've used this same procedure with any brown I use. During the browning, I have already placed a tapered dowel pounded into the muzzle and then before washing, a round splinter in the touch hole. Because Plum Brown is a very shallow brown and light, just rinse off with a soft tooth brush to get rid of the loose chemical residues. Be careful of any fine steel wool for the rough spots, but regular use of steel wool usually applies to other types of browning. Next, a very light scrubbing with baking soda that has water mixed to a soup stage but not too runny. It has to partially stay in place to do it's job, just like when you clean battery terminals on your vehicle. Rinse that off with running water and the brush. When all the residue is gone and you have wiped everything down, you need to get rid of the moisture out of the steel. Moisture, no matter how well you oil, the moisture is still underneath and will still cause rust to reappear if you don't get rid of it. Clamp the barrel in a vice or whatever you choose to use and take a torch to the barrel, but not dead close or Mr Scorch will attack. Move the flame around the barrel and watch for the moisture line moving away from the flame ahead of you. spend a little extra time with the tenons and breech plug area so you make the water sizzle out of the crevices. Probably about half way through, with the barrel still hot/warm, liberally apply high carnauba wax content wax like Meguires to the barrel with a rag. watch it melt into the creviceWhile it is getting cold, apply more to keep a coat on it until cold. Let it rest for a few and buff it out. You may get some rust the next day, so you card off with fine steel wool so you don't wear the high spots and then you torch it up again so it is warm. It may catch fire, so what. Add more wax.. Let it go stone cold and buff out again. Keep waxed through it's life. If you use oil, the oil will transfer to you and everything else and that's yechy. Well, you get the idea, I may have muddled some of the narrative, but you get the idea to polish the details yourself.

 

[fishmusic]

I once used Amsoil gun oil, and another time RIG. I typically use RIG on my other rifles that only see occasional use. Thinking about it, the parts sat in my basement for 2 years bare (i.e., no oil and no browning) without developing a speck of rust.

Should i used a different oil?

I have had good results with motor oil. Let it soak overnight, wipe off the excess and let the rust harden for day or two. Like Zonie said it will still rust a little but that will wipe away easily and eventually stop. Keep it well oiled now with your preferred gun oil. Oh, wow! I just saw that Zonie said motor oil too.

 

[1861colt]

Yes, secrets can come out on a forum and we know that is's sort of like Vegas: What happens on the forum stays on the forum.

 

[vandeda]

Shoot ... I never saw these other messages until just now almost 4 months later. Thank you all again. My one spot by a tennon is still being a bit of a bugger and still appears to be slowly rusting, but I also haven't had much time to work on it either. Some of these suggestions are a bit different, so I will give them a try.

 

[Sidney Smith]

I too have used motor oil to stop the rusting process. Did a good job. I then put a hand rubbed coat of linseed oil on the barrel when it was finished, and it has held up well.