Poo Poo Pietta #2

[Mark E. Prickett]

I've had the locking tab fall off one gun and the front sight fall off another, both Piettas. Fixed them both with JB Weld and both are still there after hundreds if not thousands of shots.

I may try that before dovetail.

 

[SPQR70AD]

The stuff works like magic. Try treading the directions.

as long as the pieces are clean and roughed up a bit JB is the best adhesive I ever saw

 

[SPQR70AD]

I've had the locking tab fall off one gun and the front sight fall off another, both Piettas. Fixed them both with JB Weld and both are still there after hundreds if not thousands of shots.

but...but...JB weld does not work

 

[AlexB]

I am at the limit of adjustment I can get from a file on a Pietta 1858.
Gonna go see what today's removal did hopefully I won't have to jbweld and file the front post sideways..........hopefully.

 

[Ed C.]

I like to try the easy stuff first. Clean up the pieces real good, use a good flux, and soft solder it back on. If it works, fine. If not you can always dovetail it. Nothing to lose but a little time by trying to solder it. If you are not experienced using soft solder find someone who is. Proper heating and timely application of the solder is key.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Dixies warranty is better than most.

 

[Blackpowderart]

Shoulda went with uberti, it's dovetailed

 

[2 shots]

dont forget to degrease before using any method , using brake clean or equivalent.

 

[Mark E. Prickett]

OK, I read the instructions and am trying JB Weld. It has a 15 hour curing time so we will shoot ot tomorrow and see. If this dosen't work I'll dovetail in a Uberettie one.

 

[SPQR70AD]

I hope you roughed up the surfaces and cleaned them real good before gluing

 

[B P Arn]

I would definitely let the JB Weld harden for at least 24 hours before I put it under any stress.

 

[Freedom]

Guys buy JB by the pallet to rebuild blown aluminum engine blocks of 300mph top-fuel dragsters... tensile strength is amazing.

JB weld will not take shock. It is amazing stuff for some things, but I've had it fall right off at times.

I soldered a tab on a Pietta and it has lasted a couple thousand shots so far.

 

[Bad Karma]

Guys buy JB by the pallet to rebuild blown aluminum engine blocks of 300mph top-fuel dragsters... tensile strength is amazing.

JB weld will not take shock. It is amazing stuff for some things, but I've had it fall right off at times.

I soldered a tab on a Pietta and it has lasted a couple thousand shots so far.

A friend of mine has gone 260 in the quarter mile. I’m going to ask him about this. I don’t doubt you but I wonder what application it would have…

 

[leadhoarder]

A friend of mine has gone 260 in the quarter mile. I’m going to ask him about this. I don’t doubt you but I wonder what application it would have…

The plug wire brackets ain't gonna hold themselves. LOL

Seriously though I got no experience on the subject but I would be skeptical too.

 

[Bad Karma]

The plug wire brackets ain't gonna hold themselves. LOL

Seriously though I got no experience on the subject but I would be skeptical too.

Yeah, 4000 PSI is a lot for an epoxy, but it’s still just epoxy. If Pietta won’t use good silve solder or interference fit when building the gun JB might be better than the factory efforts but some of the cold solders are stronger and I have used them without causing any issues with the bluing.


BTW… Yes, J-B Weld can repair a cracked cylinder head, but… - Hagerty Media

 

[M. De Land]

Yeah, 4000 PSI is a lot for an epoxy, but it’s still just epoxy. If Pietta won’t use good silve solder or interference fit when building the gun JB might be better than the factory efforts but some of the cold solders are stronger and I have used them without causing any issues with the bluing.


BTW… Yes, J-B Weld can repair a cracked cylinder head, but… - Hagerty Media

I use a lot of Hi-Force 44 which is a low temp silver solder with 14.000 psi holding strength which is 2/3rds the strength of high temp silver solder.
I prefer it for lining barrels to epoxy although it is a lot more work.
This would be a good application for the lug me thinks.

 

[Mark E. Prickett]

Jb weld lasted 18 shots. I have never seen it work!

 

[45D]

Jb weld lasted 18 shots. I have never seen it work!

Marcia, Marcia, Marcia !!! Lol!! Sorry, couldn't resist!!
There's not much room for JB when you put the lug in its location plus, it's all "straight line" for it to adhere to. If you have a Dremel, I'd increase the diameter of the bottom of the hole ( reverse taper) and add a waist (reduced radius) to the stud. That would give the JB the ability to "lock" the parts together with "interference". Of course clean (alcohol) really well and rough up the surfaces.

If you don't have a Dremel, ( surely you have a drill motor) use a 1/16" bit and "just start" a hole in the side of the hole at the bottom in several places. I'd "flat spot" (grind, file or sand) the side of the post ( rear so it's hidden) and start a hole there as well. Still probably do the waist thing. The "flat" will lock the stud in position and resist rotational forces. ( now that I thought of it, put a flat on it with the Dremel too if that's what you're using).

OR ( after continued thinkin) for you folks that have a Dremel, using a diamond rotary file, open the bottom of the hole ( reverse taper) but leave a slight rib in 1 or 2 places. Same with putting a waist on the stud ( leave a rib or two). The ribs left will resist rotation of the stud.

Mike

 

[nkbj]

I too have one of those Pietta '58's with the soldered on and subsequently detached front sights.
The metal on the break is rough and uneven, so could provide a good surface for JBWeld if the sight post could be precisely placed so that the break was put back into the matching position.

 

[Pete453]

I use a lot of Hi-Force 44

Who carries it these days, Brownells doesn't last time I checked?