Skogarmann
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2014
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 0
Well, I still haven't had time to go to the range yet, but I've at least worked up the courage to open up the revolver and get that hand out. I'm a little concerned by what I see. The hand does not look like pictures of other 1860 hands I can find on the internet - mine isn't straight across the top face, but rather angles down for a bit less than half of the width. I've taken some pictures - I think they're still too big, so sorry in advance. I'm not sure how to reduce their size with MS Paint, other than cropping them.
I've tried to very lightly stone off the proud metal as MD said to do. The photos make it look a little like I went crazy with the stone and took a lot off, but it looks pretty good in person. I think it's just the shiny metal from the stoning that makes it look different.
The main thing I'm concerned by is that big sloping face, which is part of the top face of the hand. I looked at my cylinder and the tips of the star all look similar to that, so if this is some kind of factory defect hand, then it must have forged the cylinder star, as MD said.
Is there something wrong with this hand? Or is it supposed to look like this?
If there is something wrong, should I replace the hand? Would I need to replace the cylinder too? The timing of the revolver still seems ok. I've noticed that when I pull the hammer back, it goes to half-cock fine, but for full cock it clicks once (I think it's the hammer being locked to full cock) and then clicks again (which I think is the bolt locking into place on the cylinder), though I might have the hammer lock/bolt lock around the wrong way. I have to pull the hammer back a little further for the second click to occur. Is it normal for there to be two distinct clicks for full cock?
If it would be helpful for me to take more pictures, please say so and I will. Thanks again so much for everyone's help! I didn't realise it would take this kind of tuning to get a cap and ball revolver into good working shape, but I sure am glad that this forum and you gents are here
I've tried to very lightly stone off the proud metal as MD said to do. The photos make it look a little like I went crazy with the stone and took a lot off, but it looks pretty good in person. I think it's just the shiny metal from the stoning that makes it look different.
The main thing I'm concerned by is that big sloping face, which is part of the top face of the hand. I looked at my cylinder and the tips of the star all look similar to that, so if this is some kind of factory defect hand, then it must have forged the cylinder star, as MD said.
Is there something wrong with this hand? Or is it supposed to look like this?
If there is something wrong, should I replace the hand? Would I need to replace the cylinder too? The timing of the revolver still seems ok. I've noticed that when I pull the hammer back, it goes to half-cock fine, but for full cock it clicks once (I think it's the hammer being locked to full cock) and then clicks again (which I think is the bolt locking into place on the cylinder), though I might have the hammer lock/bolt lock around the wrong way. I have to pull the hammer back a little further for the second click to occur. Is it normal for there to be two distinct clicks for full cock?
If it would be helpful for me to take more pictures, please say so and I will. Thanks again so much for everyone's help! I didn't realise it would take this kind of tuning to get a cap and ball revolver into good working shape, but I sure am glad that this forum and you gents are here
