• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Perfect Range Rod

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
i have 2 steel range rods. one is stainless and is 48" long. have to get a step ladder to use it vertically.
the other i drilled and tapped 5/16 rod, powder coated it in a moment of stupidity, and epoxied and pinned a antler on it for a handle.
Powder coating is gucci but applying it to a 5/16 40" rod without a BIG oven is a pain.
both of these rods have vice teeth marks on them from those pesky sticky wadded up patches.
 
I use a stainless steel range rod.
Stainless one piece rods are nice but pricey. Some stainless is softer than the mild steel i use and tend to pick up grit , Jointed stainless are right up there with jointed aluminum in terms of snapping joints at the most inopportune time. This thread reminded me of all the shop time we made drilling out busted rods back in the day.
 
Straight grain hickory with properly pinned ends. Sorry, you asked. I ain't into plastic rods. I've been into muzzleloading since 1990. I've never broken a wood rod. HONEST. NEVER.
 
i have 2 steel range rods. one is stainless and is 48" long. have to get a step ladder to use it vertically.
the other i drilled and tapped 5/16 rod, powder coated it in a moment of stupidity, and epoxied and pinned a antler on it for a handle.
Powder coating is gucci but applying it to a 5/16 40" rod without a BIG oven is a pain.
both of these rods have vice teeth marks on them from those pesky sticky wadded up patches.
Always had a big woodworking vise installed at bench center with removable pegs set at intervals out from vise on bench front to either end. Clamping rifle of barrel in wood vise allowing for horizontal use of rod from either direction eliminating need for step ladders.
 
Straight grain hickory with properly pinned ends. Sorry, you asked. I ain't into plastic rods. I've been into muzzleloading since 1990. I've never broken a wood rod. HONEST. NEVER.
Straight grain hickory and proper pinning is the key, No amount of pinning however will make a hardware store (hobby lobby) whitewood dowel into a safe usable rod.
 
i have a gun vice in the shop where i do all my cleaning. that way when i stick a patch i can switch the setup to the machinist vice and yank on the gun/barrel.
when out shooting at targets i use one of the range rods for swabbing but use the hickory for loading, mainly because i have them marked with tells for loaded/unloaded conditions.
if i hold my mouth just right and have my shooting bench available, i can swab the barrel with the long rod. if i have to swab the barrel vertical then i have to supplement my elevation challenged legs. or call my 6'8" brother in law for help!
 
Straight grain hickory and proper pinning is the key, No amount of pinning however will make a hardware store (hobby lobby) whitewood dowel into a safe usable rod.
I agree 100%. But I've also never broken a FACTORY rod either! Now most (but not all, some came pinned!) factory rods I've had to pin. But I've NEVER broken ANY WOOD ramrod EVER.
 
I ordered an aluminum 5/16 x 4' rod off amazon, a rod guide from TOW. I drilled and tapped 10/32 threads. Works well for me.
I did the same thing except I used a 3/8" x36" galvanized steel rod. Cost like $5 at hardware store. Used a section of old broomstick for a swiveling handle. Best thing since sliced bread.
 
Galvanized is going to pick up and retain dirt and grime.
I use a brass bore guide so it never touches the bore or muzzle crown.

Curious though, how does it pick up dirt/grime more than a bare steel rod ? This one is pretty slick and smooth.
 
Galvanized will never be a slick as stainless, it is coating.

Grime ends up on your hands when using the rod.
 
I took the CVA rods and JB weld the CVA handles and love them, very light and inexpensive. I have a TOW range rod but is cumbersome moving through my range. They work really well for cleaning as I got one stuck and it held up good while I tapped it loose.
 
Quite awhile back a guy at a gun show was selling solid brass range rods with antler handles. Bought a 3/8" diameter 37" long with bore guide that has worked very well for .45 bore up to .72. Sometime later a couple of .32 rifles appeared in my shop somehow and I bought a 1/4" diameter 46" long with bore guide from the same fellow. Very happy with both.
 
Believe it or not, for general cleaning I use a wooden dowel that I cut slots into one end for a jag. On the other end I attach a wooden ball for a handle. If I needed a beating stick to get something down the bore, I'd use a good heavy brass rod. I've never had a problem with the wooden dowel, but if something gets stuck, I resort to CO2.
 
Back
Top