Pennsylvania Rifle Works rifle

[SHatfield]

Hello all. I was just given this long rifle by my mom and dad. Dad say my uncle actually used this gun on their farm in Lebanon Ohio and that it's been in the family a long time. Here's what I know.

Octagon barrel that's about an inch at the breach down to about 7/8's at the muzzle. Muzzle opening is just over 1/4 inch. Barrel is about 36/37 inches long. Stamped Pennsylvania Rifle Works on the barrel top at the breach and on the lock. Here are the pics of it and the two powder flask/horns that came with it.

and the two flasks...

I am also looking for someone who could properly restore it as well.

Any information on it would be greatly appreciated.

Steve in Florida.

 

[JV Puleo]

You have a nice, plain "farmer's" rifle, probably from the middle of the 19th century but perhaps as late as the 1870s. The Pennsylvania Rifle Works is listed in Gardner but, oddly, he gives it a "date unknown" although mentioning such plain percussion rifles. Gardner is pretty dated now, the last edition was in 1968, so there is probably much better information out there. It is what I'd call a "hardware store" rifle, fairly well made, albeit in a factory, serviceable but not ornate. A working tool more than anything else.

For the moment, I'd advise you to do nothing more than wipe it down with a soft cloth, perhaps with a little linseed or lemon oil on it. Generally, the less done to something like this, the better. Please don't go near it with sandpaper or Naval Jelly... both are an anathema to collectors.

 

[Zonie]

"AMERICAN GUN MAKERS" by L.D.Satterlee and Major Arcadi Gluckman, Otto Ulbrich Co., Inc, 1940 says:
"G. Dunlap, operator. Percussion period. Makers of "hardware store" guns.

 

[SHatfield]

Thanks to both of you. So this would be a percussion cap rifle I take it? And what I meant by restoration was the fact that the lock mechanism actually comes out of the stock. Although when pushed in it cocks and fires.

Do my eyes deceive me or is the actual barrel bore octagon shaped as well?

Thanks much again.

Steve

 

[Trench]

Perhaps the retaining screw on the oposite side of the lock needs just a little tightening. Is the lock falling out of the mortise with the screw in?

 

[SHatfield]

Trench the retaining screw is in although it doesn't look original. If you look at the fifth pic down you'll see the screw. But to answer your question, yes it comes out while the screw is in the other side.

Steve

 

[Lorne Johnson]

Well, I count six sides to bore, which makes it hexagonal. But, yes, it is not round. It was form of rifling, often called "Whitworth" after the original ( I believe) developer.

 

Well, I count six sides to bore, which makes it hexagonal. But, yes, it is not round. It was form of rifling, often called "Whitworth" after the original ( I believe) developer.

"Octagon barrel" usually refers to the outside of the barrel, not the bore. SHatfield is correct.

 

[SHatfield]

Green mt is right. It is 6 sides to the muzzle bore.

 

[SHatfield]

Actually it's 8 outside and 6 inside. Sorry if I caused confusion.

 

[JV Puleo]

It isn't Whitworth rifling... its just the perfectly conventional rifling of the period... six grooves in such a small bore gives the optical illusion that its a six-sided bore but there is nothing unusual or special about it.

 

Steve,
The fellows appear to have their information pretty much correct. If the lock screw has been replaced it may just be to short and not engaging the lock plate. As for any cleaning, as stated, do not use sandpaper or other abrasives on either the wood or metal. I usually use D&L hand cleaner on a soft cloth, or my hands, rubbed on both the metal and wood. It will take off a lot of dirt but will leave any of the original finish, and patina, that is under the dirt. It will also put a little oil, lanolin, back into the dried wood. Good luck, nice looking rifle that appears to be in pretty good condition.
Mark :thumbsup:

 

[SHatfield]

Would anyone wager a caliber ?

Steve

 

Steve,
If the barrel is 7/8 across the flats at the muzzle, it would appear that the caliber is relativly small. To venture a guess would be just that. Many times these old rifles are worn at the muzzle from use over the decades and become "funneled", for lack of a better term. When this occurs the bore is often considerably smaller than what is seen at the muzzle. To determine the calber you will have to get at least 3"-4" below the muzzle to get any idea of what the caliber is. This is not always the case. On your rifle there is some rifling showing at the muzzle and you may get a decent appoximation of what the caliber is at the muzzle. Either way, a guess would be just that and no more.
Mark

 

[bioprof]

It appears that the stock has artificial striping which was common with some builders such as Leman. Be very, very careful in cleaning it as you don't want to remove any of the original finish or the striping. In fact, I wouldn't clean it at all. It's worth more as is.

 

[SHatfield]

Thanks to everyone for all their information. I believe I'll lean towards not trying anything to it other than wanting to preserve it from further damage. I believe one of you mentioned a product to put on that does not take off patina or finish so I may try that. The age mentioned makes sense as this was probably purchased by my great uncles father around the mid 1800's to use on the farm. I would wager that the brass flask came with it as they are reportedly around that age (from what I can research online) and the horn flask was picked up separately. I am still interested in having the lock mechanism professionally restored if anyone can point me in the direction of folks who do that. I live in South East Florida right now but travel to Western North Carolina often. Thanks again so much

Steve

 

[Zonie]

A flask very similar, perhaps the same as yours is shown as # 365 on page 291 in Riling's "THE POWDER FLASK BOOK".

Riling is noted as being "the" authority on powder flasks and his book shows thousands of them.

He classified your flask as a "SHELL AND BUSH" flask. Unfortunately he doesn't give any specific information about that particular one.

These SHELL AND BUSH flasks were made both in the U.S.A. and abroad.

Often, the maker will have marked his companies name on the neck or filler. It might be interesting to see if it says something like Hawksley (British) or American Flask & Cap Co on it.

 

[SHatfield]

Thanks Zonie. I found one that looks almost exactly, if not exactly like it on this site......

http://www.ambroseantiques.com/hornsflasks.htm

It's exactly 45 pictures down and says it's a 381 I believe. Thanks

Steve

 

Shatfield,
I went to the site you noted and have to say that if his prices were indicative of the market, I would have a very extensive collection for sale. To use that site for identification is one thing but "I" feel his evaluations are quite high on most of what he is showing. There is always going to be an exception.
Mark

 

[SHatfield]

Mornin Papa. Thanks for the info. When I started looking at the items given to me and knowing they came from the family farm in Ohio I didn't think I would hit the jackpot and make it on Antiques Road Show (LOL) cause they were just working class farmers anyway. That site was interesting but I knew it was sort of a retail setting. It does seem like the zinc or whatever it is flask is a relatively common one. Couldn't find a makers mark anywhere on it and I'm not gonna do any cleaning on it. It's a lot of fun investigating this stuff though.

Steve