Patches and lube?

[CTShooter]

I am trying to learn the whys and how's of deciding patch thickness and lube.
To date I have been using cheap scraps from the bargain bin at the fabric store and bore butter to fully saturate the patches.
Rifle is .50, ball is .490 and best I can measure the patch is about .010. I settled on this with 80g of FF Goex because I didn't have to fight to load it and my 50 yard hunting accuracy is about 4" off hand.

It's one of those it works but I don't know any better being mostly self-taught.

After reading lots of posts, it seems like I'm the only one using bore butter as a lube and I think I might be over lubing the patches too.

I know this is basic noob stuff, but I think with the gaps I'm finding in my education, it's time to start at the beginning again and fill in the blanks.

Thanks in advance and I'll supply the powder( and coffee) for a range trip if anyone wants to teach a noob.

 

[BigBoreBLR]

I'm somewhat new myself and have been experimenting a bit.

3 common options for target shooting and nor hunting due to moisture and rust formation issues.

Ballistol and water. Seems 7 water to 1 oil. Get them wet and let them dry.

Hoppes number 9. Somewhere around 3 to 4 drops a patch.

Olive oil or olive oil and beeswax mix.

Spit.

Not popular anymore, but read 3 in 1 oil or Wd40 has been used. Essentially mineral oil.

Use a consistent ball manufacture, Luke all hornady for example.

There's specific lubes out there too made by numerous folks.

Buy pre made .012, .015, and .018 to start. Usually as tight as you feel comfortable loading.

Many wipe between shots with spit or a few drops of rubbing alcohol.

Consistent use of your desired lube is desired. Moist not dripping wet is the idea here.

For hunting I use cva Pre lubed patches with that yellow lube in them. It's gets too goop for target shooting, but the first shot is consistent.

Make sure you clean the bore free of storage oil before using.

 

[Billnpatti]

Here ya go. This is the final answer. www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com It's only $20 for a lifetime of muzzleloading accuracy. It answers the questions about balls, patches, lubes, powder charges, etc. The best muzzleloading bargain on the planet. I have a copy and have been using it for a long time. It truly is the final answer. Grab a copy while it is still available. Dutch has mentioned something about getting out of the business of selling his accuracy system. When he does, it will be a real loss to the muzzleloading community.

 

[azmntman]

:thumbsup: +1 on Dutch system

 

[mooman76]

I occasionally use Bore butter also as well as a few others. Not a great lube but not bad either and it works. I usually use spit patch but I already have BB so I use it.

 

[azmntman]

Before I went "Dutch" I used BB too, worked OK. I always went back to Hoppes though, just seemed the BEST at preventing any fouling build up (I didnt swab then either though).

 

[Billnpatti]

It seems to me, within reason, and as long as you stick to non-petroleum lubes, it is not so much what you use but how much you use. Yes, it is possible to have a particular lube that is too slick and I have run across a couple of them but for the most part, the important thing is to not over lube your patches. When I use a lube such as Bore Butter, I apply it to a piece of fabric that I use for patches, work it in and then fold the fabric several times. I then place it into several folds of newspaper and run over the newspaper with an iron to melt the lube into the patch material. When the fabric cools, the lube has melted into the fabric. Done properly, there will be no excess lube on the surface of the fabric. What you have is essentially a dry patch similar to what Dutch recommends. My method for using thick lubes such as Bore Butter differs from the patch lubricating method recommended by Dutch but the final product, when done carefully, closely matches the product that Dutch recommends. He recommends a method using Balistol. It's a great product and I use it a lot but I also have a few tubes of Bore Butter that I picked up at a blanket shoot. So, I use it and it works just fine when I do it the way I explained. Remember, it is less about what you use and more about how much you use. :thumbsup:

 

[larry wv]

I use Olive oil for regular shooting. Not soaked. Bore butter for hunting with a bit of wasp/hornet nest over powder. The reason for the nest is I will leave my rifles loaded 3 month's or so and don't want the powder to soak up.

Larry

 

[CTShooter]

Thank you for all the information.

I went through and ironed all my lubed patches between paper towels (my wife didn't blink when I asked for the iron for my patches, not sure if that's good or bad?), they feel much better, almost dry, but more important, all feel the same.

I had way too much lube, I can see now how bad that is now, everything that goes in, has to come out at some point too.

Olive oil is mentioned quite often, I'm guessing it has a combination of good lubrication and low fouling?
I only use real powder.

 

[ohio ramrod]

As you have already learned many people have problems with lubes simply because they use too much.Which is why Dutch's system improves most peoples shooting. But his system goes far beyond the amount of lube used. It will save you about twenty years of experimenting. :hmm: :hmm:

 

[tenngun]

Twenty years of experimenting is part of the fun. I like lard or mink oil. Dutch point out not to over grease the patch, with s hard line like lard I only grease one side. It will get all the way through but never gets sopping wet. It's good cold or hot wet or dry. It can be used as a wad lube also

 

[CTShooter]

This is just the beginning I'm sure, and when I get a smooth bore flintlock it will start again I'm sure.

Thanks again for all the info

 

[Grenadier1758]

When you select material for patching, be sure its 100% cotton or linen flax. Any synthetic fabric will melt out and really mess up the bore.

 

[mike54]

I use stumpys formula for the grease and i lube the material and stick it in the micro wave for about 15 seconds, put it in a baggy and use when needed. For moosemilk i use murphys oil soap, water and water soluable cutting oil (been using this formula for 25 years and it works great as a wet lube and cleaner.)

 

[CTShooter]

What is the purpose of "moose milk"?

Is it something I need?

Yesterday's range trip seemed liked a step backwards.

 

[kh0456]

Ive been shooting a long time and have been through a lot of homemade lubes and commercial versions. It wasn't till I found this recipe from this forum that I got hooked. Stumpy moose juice is the best as far as what I've used! I won't look any further.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

 

[Billnpatti]

Moose Milk is another of the endless line of lubricants. It works. I don't find it any better nor worse than any of the others. But, those who choose to use it like it. Use it if you wish. But, because you are using real black powder, you have few actual "needs" for caring for your rifle. Of course, you will need the usual patches, cleaning jag, rod, etc. But besides those few things, all you need are your non-petroleum lube of choice, a can of WD-40, a can of Barricade, some soap (I like Dawn) and a bunch of patches. Clean your gun with soapy water, rinse with clean water, wipe dry, spray with WD-40, wipe dry again, wipe the bore with Barricade and you're good to go. I do have one other product that I keep on hand for cleaning my lock and that is either a spray can of carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner. That is how I clean my lock. I flush it with one of these products, let it dry and then lightly oil with a good gun oil. You can get away with just washing your lock with the same soapy water that you use on your bore and then rinsing and letting it dry before oiling it but I find that spray carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner is faster, does a great job of getting all of the crud out of the lock workings and dries very quickly. But, not only does it remove all of the dirt and crud, it strips out all of the oil so you will have to be sure to lightly oil all of the working parts again before returning your lock to the stock.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Spit, free and works great as a patch lube.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Don't buy!............D.I.Y. :grin:

Should be a motto.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Absolutely my friend, dead on! Spirit of the addiction!