Newbie question..........

[buckeyeair]

I am seeking info. on a rifle that I saw at a yard sale this past weekend and I just had to stop for a look-see..it turned out to be a CVA Hawken model made in 1986 and really caught my eye so I talked the folks down to $85. from $100...I have no idea what this rifle is worth, it just really appealed to me..I know nothing about the gun, nothing about black powder or muzzle loading at all..The rifle appears to be in about 90% condition..any idea what I have gotten into ?
Thanks;
glenn

 

[RJR]

Get ahold of one of the local muzzleloading clubs, the members will most likely help you get started. Once you get out and start makin' smoke, watch out, the bug's gonna BITE.

Enjoy, Rick

 

[walruskid1]

i'll tell you what you have gotten into - a lifelong hobby that can be both frustrating and very satisfying. searching for the magic load that shoots 1 hole groups can take many weekends out of a summer. (thats o.k.). remember, any day at the range is better than work. one gun WILL multiply. enjoy and be safe. :m2c:

 

[boar]

You got a good buy. I have two ,both have two barrels 50 and54 cal I have killed 7 deer with the one two of them over 1ooyrds with 54cal it is lighter to carry bigger bore, I use 8ogrs 2ffgoex b-powder patched round ball they are cap locks also have 4 other cvas Killed 2o ground hogs with21 shots with 32 cal cva squirrel rifle 2o grs of 3fff I have shot the 50 in shoots with 60 grs 2ff it shots good Dilly

 

[Zonie]

IMO, if your gun has two barrel wedges thru the forestock holding the barrel on you have the Mountain Rifle which is considered a fairly good rifle.
If there is only one barrel wedge thru the forestock holding the barrel on, you have the CVA Hawken which has been around for years.
The Hawken is a fairly low cost gun, with the parts made in Spain. Its parts are not what one would call "high quality" but it will easily shoot thousands of shots before it wears out.

You really need to check the condition of the bore. Often, people who don't understand that cleaning is very important to prevent rust will let the fouled bore sit for months before noticeing that it is rusted.

Even if it is rusty, if the rust hasn't pitted the metal it can be cleaned up and will shoot very well.
If it has deep pits in it, it can be shot, but the accuracy will be poor.

Welcome to the world of Muzzleloading.

 

[Rebel]

Also,if all the furniture is brass, it is the Hawken.

 

Im a relative newbie, baught two Hawkens since february. Biggest lesson I learned was to get a nipple wrench and make sure you can get the nipple out of the gun if its a percussion. Red Flag for sure on rust problems. Too look all the way down the bore on these guns Ive also learned that a Surefire flashlight will send a waterfall of light down that dark tunnel and you can actually see whats going on down there. Knowing what to look for, well thats where you have a sticky wicket.

 

[buckeyeair]

Thanks for all the replies folks...looks as though I have a lot to learn and I got a 'fair' deal, not great, but 'fair'. I am wondering if there is any sort of literature available as to disassembly and clean up procedures and things to look for, for the total novice..ya know like 'Muzzle Loaders for Dummys' !..as I said before I know absolutly nothing about these guns although I do have some friends that have them and have vouluntered to help me it would still be nice to learn what I could on my own. I suppose I could contact CVA and see if an owners manual was still available...that would be a start...
Thanks again;
glenn

 

[Rebel]

Look for a copy of the Lyman Muzzleloader Handbook. It has a lot of good info in it.

 

[Ironwood]

Glenn, There is some very basic information at this site. http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/learning/hunter_education/homestudy/muzzleloader/

 

[Zonie]

If you have the gun I believe you do, to remove the barrel;

Pull the hammer back to the first click (half cock).

Remove the ramrod from the gun.

Using a narrow tool, tap the barrel wedge out of the forestock. It may almost fall out or it may be in rather tight.

Rotate the front of the barrel upward until the hook on the breech disengages with the steel breech block at the rear.

To reassemble, reverse the above instructions.

With the barrel removed, you can remove the lock by loosening and removing the screw on the left side of the stock.

If this is the first time, back the screw out about 3 turns and lightly tap the screw head. This will loosen the lock on the other side from its mortice. You should then be able to remove the screw. Then, using the hammer as something to grab, gently rock the lockback and forth. It should come out of the stock without much trouble.

The Trigger guard, trigger assembly and breech block are usually not removed from the stock.

That's about it. Nothing really complicated, just don't force anything.

 

[buckeyeair]

Zonie;
Thanks for the GREAT info. for disassemby....will come in handy shortly !
glenn