New to flints

[Mtman725]

So I am waiting for my first flint a Lyman GPR in 54, any insight and things I need to do ?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Search discussions here for advice. Buy plenty of supplies. Be patient, try not to get (too) frustrated and keep shooting. Keep us informed and ask questions if you can't find the answers with searches.

 

[Flintandsteel]

The 2 items that matter in an efficient flintlock are #1 the lock, and #2 the barrel.
The GPR has one of the two.
Your mileage may vary. Nothing more discouraging than a flinter that won’t go off.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

So I am waiting for my first flint a Lyman GPR in 54, any insight and things I need to do ?

Return it.

 

[William Sublette]

So I am waiting for my first flint a Lyman GPR in 54, any insight and things I need to do ?

Don't listen to the insecure, self absorbed, knuckle heads.

Some times flints can be out of stock. So start looking for those.

I have the same rifle, and I think my flints are the 3/4x7/8 size. It's not exact.

The first load a tried was 75 gr 3f with a .o15 patch, and home cast .535 ball. It clover leafed at 115yds off the bench, so I never tried any others.


Develop a simple repeatable form. Follow through.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Don't listen to the insecure, self absorbed, knuckle heads.

Thanks. I have 43 years of experience. I thought maybe my advice would be valuable.

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

So I am waiting for my first flint a Lyman GPR in 54, any insight and things I need to do ?

Some of these tips may help:

 

[TDM]

So I am waiting for my first flint a Lyman GPR in 54, any insight and things I need to do ?

I know your already swamped with advice, but again, as said, take advantage of forum threads and ask specific questions when your not sure of something. The rifle will need to be disassembled, cleaned, and properly lubed. You don’t necessarily need to disassemble the lock right off the bat, but down the road it will benefit from a good polishing of the internals. Make sure you have good flints of the correct size and proper leather to secure them in jaw. Don’t dry fire the lock without a real flint or wooden flint installed. And don’t over tighten the lock when you reinstall it. Try to adjust your flint and leather so it hits the frizzen about 2/3 of the way up. Have the flint as close to the closed frizzen as possible with the hammer at half cock, but not touching. Also once you have the flint secured, ease the hammer down to make sure the flint doesn’t hit the barrel or pan. And don’t over prime the pan when you finally go shooting. I suggest a .530 round ball and a lubed .020 or .018 patch for starters and 60-65 grains of 3F. I prefer 4F for priming but 3F will work fine. Best of luck.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The 2 items that matter in an efficient flintlock are #1 the lock, and #2 the barrel.
The GPR has one of the two.
Your mileage may vary. Nothing more discouraging than a flinter that won’t go off.

There is a third item that matters. Flintlocks work best when real black powder is used. 3Fg will work as the main charge and in the pan.

@B P Maniac Shooter, is quite generous in his video as he offers about 10 tips for successful flintlock shooting.

Pay close attention to the Forum's threads on polishing the lock. All new locks will benefit from polishing off the burrs and sharp edges on the moving parts of the lock. Clean all the storage grease from the barrel. This includes the chambered breech and out the touch hole.

Don't file on the sights until the most consistent group has been developed. New rifles often have sharp edges on the corners of the lands that cut patches. Don't expect great groups until the patches can be recovered and no holes are evident. The crown may need a bit of polishing as sharp crowns can also cut patches.

 

[Wirehair]

Return it.

I don't like reading between the lines. Tell us how you really feel.

 

[Mtman725]

The video was good, Thanks.

 

[Sam squanch]

No disrespect intended- shoot your rifle a bit, then see if you can shoot a Kibler, or other custom made flintlock. The difference is obvious. I’ve had zero luck with the cheaper mass produced flintlocks, that includes Pedersoli. I had one old CVA flintlock that worked until it broke. I then converted it to a mule ear lock, that was only because the barrel was so accurate.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Return it.

That's kinda blunt. We all had to start somewhere. My first ml rifle was a CVA 'sorta kentucky' flinter. Real hunka junka but it taught me to go for better. I used to be a TC not-really-a-hawken-hawken snob. But, fact is that rifle probably made the ml avocation what it is today. Give the guy a chance.

 

[Thingamajiggy]

Range time will help, I've found most production guns to be serviceable and reliable over the years. Have had and still shoot Lymans, with a sharp flint, i find them very reliable. Never had an issue getting 1 to go off once I've spent a little time with them, find what works and repeat it. Good luck.

 

[Pete G]

Thanks. I have 43 years of experience. I thought maybe my advice would be valuable.

It is. Keep up the good work.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Ive had one production lock, and one Jim chambers lock.
I can never go back to a production lock.

Find a lock smith in your hood and have them tune it.
Check the spring pull weights so they are not to much for the lock to handle.

If you had shot a Kibler before your got the production gun, you would have not even looked at it.

 

[MSW]

started out with a Thompson Center .50 cal flint and though i have acquired or built several other rifles, it's still a solid performer. I have never owned a Lyman or Pedersoli rifle, so i can't speak to their adequacy or quality.

You will no doubt be inundated with advice about never do this or always do that ... try what makes sense and go with what works for you, and politely ignore advice which does not.

Tinkering with it is part of the fun (in my opinion, but then again, my opinion and a ticket will get you on the bus).

You will become addicted to this whole deal, and your friends will be amazed that the guy they thought they knew well is now all excited about sharp rocks ... don't worry - they just don't "get it," and probably never will.

Look at Jim Chambers or Jim Jibler's kits ... both have a tremendous reputation. It's a pretty substantial investment, but worth it (again, just my opinion).

Best of luck, and make good smoke

 

[Robert Losekamp]

Ive had one production lock, and one Jim chambers lock.
I can never go back to a production lock.

Find a lock smith in your hood and have them tune it.
Check the spring pull weights so they are not to much for the lock to handle.

If you had shot a Kibler before your got the production gun, you would have not even looked at it.

Local isnt even necessary. @FlinterNick does great work at an affordable price. I really cant recommend him enough.

 

[oldwood]

Though L don't build guns any more , folks still bring problems for me to fix. One common lock problem is , lack of lubrication of the flint lock mechanism. Learn how a flint lock works , keep it clean and properly lubricated for low friction in the parts , all should be well.

 

[deerstalkert]

just because I am tired of fighting snow, frozen pipes, cars that won't start, and sore feet, I guess i will toss my two drachma's in.
all of the previous advice is good. even the grinch's.
one thing when you do start shooting the gun, if you start getting flash in the pans, try putting a pick in the vent before you drop your powder. leave it there through the entire loading sequence. my GPR with the .54 barrel on likes this method. with the .50 on it never FIP's.
next is get in the habit of wiping the flint and frizzen between shots. i neglected this last year and it cost me a grand bear. klatch is a four letter word for me. three klatches in a row turns me into a sailor.
handy wipes are great for wiping the flint and frissen.