New Guy from Arizona with new-to-me Rifle

[OLD208X3A]

I've been reading this forum for a while trying to get info before I purchased a percussion rifle. I finally came across a used Lyman's GPR (.54 cal percussion) with a lot of accessories for a crazy-good price.

I disassembled and cleaned the rifle and I have a few questions. The rear sight slides easily in and out of the slot across the barrel. To tighten this should I use a shim or possibly center punch the slot? Anyone have a suggested starting load for this rifle? It's rifled for round ball. Any other info would be great too.

I'd like to use it for targets and also for a muzzleloader hunt next year. Really nice rifle and feels and looks great. I think this is gonna be fun!

Great forum and so much good info. Thanks.

 

[CoyoteJoe]

One way to tighten a dovetail without unsightly dings is to lay a large diameter deep wall socket across the barrel, letting it center itself in the groove, then give it a good whack with a hammer. That will bend down the edges of the dovetail smoothly with no obvious marks.
For a load I'd suggest you stat with a .530" ball, .016-.018" pillow ticking patch and 60 grains of 2f or 3f Goex, your choice. From there work up to heavier charges firing a five shot group with each increasing increment of powder. You can go up to 100 grains if you like but let the targets tell you what your rifle likes. You can also experiment with different ball diameters and patch thicknesses but change only one thing at a time and keep good records as you go. You're only looking for group size to start, pay no attention to group location. After you find your best group, only then work on the sights to get your group where you like it. Above all, be safe and have fun.

 

[cowpoke1955]

I have two .54 GPR's, one flint and one percussion. I had the same problem with my flinter when I insyalled the primitive rear sight. I placed the sight upside down in a vice. With a metal punch and hammer, I peened the bottom edges of the sight base. This will expand the sight base to fit the dove tail cut. May have to repeat this a few times yo get a snug fit. When installed, there will be no marks visable. All marks will be on the bottom of the sight base. I did this to my flinter about six years ago and it's still rock solid. As for loads, each rifle is different. I am very lucky, both of my rifles like the same load. I get one ragged hole groups at 50 yargs with a .530 ball, pillow ticking patch (pillow ticking from Wal=Mart) lubed with Ballistol ( http://www.ballistol.com/ ) and 80 grains of FFg Goex. Increase the charge to 9- grains puts me right on at 100 yards. FFFg powder shoots fine, but FFg seems to give me tighter groups. Like I said, each rifle is different, so you will have to work up a load that your rifle likes. You have a fine rifle and I'm sure you're going to love it :thumbsup:

 

[mtmshieldshotmail.com]

Welcome! My GPR is still in kit form, in the closet waiting for me to find the time to assemble it. I had to reply because of your login name...Greetings from an old 208X4G! :wink:
Regards,
Mike

 

[William O.]

A great rifle especially if you got a bargain. The 1:60 rate of twist of the GPR is not likely to group conicals very well but can be an excellent round ball shooter. If you are new to muzzle loading in general I would suggest that you start with pre-cut and lubed patches at least .015 thick and a swaged .530 diameter RB. My .54 prefers 2f granualation hands down, so try to find some Goex for sale in your area. 55-60 grains is a good starting load, then work up in 5 grain increments after shooting 3 shots, aiming at the same place on your target. 120 grains of 2f is the maximum safe amount but you should find the most accurate powder charge long before reaching that point. I would also suggest that you use an alcohol dampened cleaning patch to swab the bore with in between shots, just to return things to the same point you started with. Hope this helps, and post a pic of your new to you rifle if you get a chance.

PS-after you find the right powder charge for your rifle you can start to change things like RB diameter, patch thickness/lube, adjusting/filing the sights, etc. to tighten up your shots even more.

 

[123.DieselBenz]

In Tucson ... If ya didn't know already ... You can get real black powder from Thunderstick, I believe it is Graf's and it was about $20 a pound last time I went in ... Just ask .... Enjoy!

 

[Hawken-Hunter]

I shoot 2" groups at 75 yards with my .54 GPR using .530 balls with .020" prelubed patches and 100 grains FFG black powder.

 

[OLD208X3A]

Follow up to my original post about my Lyman GPR. First, thanks so much to this site for the great information. I've learned so much and have really enjoyed shooting this rifle. My son and I have both been highly impressed with the accuracy of this weapon. However, I have an issue that I need help with.

After I shoot the rifle and clean it I have problems with FTFs when I take it back out. Sometimes it takes three or four tries to get the gun to fire. I disassemble and clean the nipple and snail and it will finally work and then the delay between the cap firing and the powder charge igniting is noticeable on the first functional shot. Once the gun does fire, I can repeatedly fire it during that range session without issue. This is annoying at the range, but I've got a hunt coming up and I really need this to fire on the first attempt.

Am I doing something wrong or is this a common problem? Thanks.

 

[vthunter52]

After you clean the rifle, are you firing just some caps before loading? Cap the rifle(no powder), and point at the ground and fire the cap. You should see disturbance on the ground when you fire. This clears the nipple channel and drys the breech. This should eliminate your problem.

 

[OLD208X3A]

Excellent suggestion. I will try that this weekend. Thanks for the help.

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

It may be a little less convenient, but I use one of those compressed air cans, used to clean computer keyboards, to blow clear my vents and percussion arms fire channels before I leave the house. I still dry patch the bore before firing to get any oil out.

 

[Matt85]

are you cleaning the oil out of the gun before going to the range? make sure you dont have any oil in the barrel, drum, or nipple before shooting. i use denatured alcohol, i wet a patch and sind it down the barrel, wet a pipe cleaner and clean out the drum, and then spray some threw the nipple. this process doesnt take long and keeps BP residue from mixing with the oil to create tar. petroleum based oil and BP residue are not a good combo!

-matt

 

[Zonie]

Oil from the last cleaning can flow down the bore and collect in the chambered breech and the fire channel that connects it to the base of the nipple.

If this happens your first powder charge will be contaminated and often will completely plug up the fire channel with what has become a noncombustible, blackpowder plug.

To keep this from happening, store your newly cleaned and oiled gun muzzle down rather than muzzle up.
Also, before loading, remove the nipple and run a pipe cleaner down thru the small fire channel hole into the breech to clean out any oil that may have accumulated there.

 

[Sean Gadhar]

I went to wal-mart & got Alcohol swabs (in the little packs 100 cost about $5, when I'm about to start shooting or after swabing out at the range,I run one or two down the bore,fire a cap or two & pick the nipple.
I have only had one cap fail to fire the powder since I started with the swabs ( about 100 rounds through two rifles all in weather below freezing).
The one non fire was after 3 rounds & I picked the nipple recapped & she went right off.

 

[George T.]

There are a couple of choices with the GPR's. You can go with the 530 and .018 or .020 patches or 535 balls with patches in the .015 range. Powder I would start with 80 if it's a 1 in 60 which it should be. I tilt the rifle at half cock so that any thing coming out of the nipple will not get on the rifle. Then I put one short shot of carb cleaner down the bore. When it stops dripping I dry with a clean dry patch. I then pop two caps and I never have a slow fire. You have a great rifle enjoy as I do. Geo. T.

 

[MFP308]

A little local knowledge for you. For a source of Goex in the Tucson area check out Thunderstick. They carry all things Black Powder. Also If you are interested in a black powder group Look up the Old Pueblo Muzzle Loaders. They shoot out at the Tucson Rifle Club every third Sunday of the month. Nice Guys and Gals. I belong to the group but I'm not as active as I would like to be. Also in case nobody has mentioned it, get a new nipple on your rifle. Thunderstick will have what you need. Don't get a Lyman replacement but a hotter nipple. Also I've found that the Remington hot caps work best on my GPR. Best of luck and good shooting!


Mike

 

[HellBound]

Loose in the dovetail?

Do NOT beat on the barrel, no,no,no.
The easy way is loctite on bare metal.
There are other methods.
ALWAYS work on the sights, not the barrel.


P.A.

 

[OLD208X3A]

After you clean the rifle, are you firing just some caps before loading? Cap the rifle(no powder), and point at the ground and fire the cap. You should see disturbance on the ground when you fire. This clears the nipple channel and drys the breech. This should eliminate your problem.

I tried this and after two caps I saw the grass move. Worked perfect. Fired the first shot no problem. Thanks for the tip and all the great responses.