Cpl. Ashencheeks
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2014
- Messages
- 336
- Reaction score
- 15
Thank you everyone for the advice and replies.
Dave, yes I would definitely say I am a beginner.
Putting together a kit usually only involves filing, fitting, and finishing were much of the harder tasks are already done by a machine and factory employees. I have a couple of book sources to draw from, such as the Sam Fadala and Dale Storey book on Black Powder Hobby Gunsmithing which has what seems to be decent information on pre-packaged kit builds.
I only have one book on scratch builds which I can draw some info from, which would be George Lauber's book How to build a flintlock-rifle or pistol which I think I would have to fill in the blanks on some of the problems I would probably run into. I should probably look into acquiring a copy of the Buchele and Shumway book when possible.
Thank goodness for places like this forum and the knowledge gathered by people who did things before I ever decided to take these hobbies up and without the help of internet or video sources.
I am finding that scratch builds require thinking from a few different angles on how to approach certain tasks and miscalculating the order of even small details can lead to new problems that might have to be solved in a few different ways.
I ordered the pre-carved stock from TOW and bought a barrel from MBS, which I have both been delivered already. Dave, your advice on going with the Siler lock seems sound considering this is how most people have probably built their Dickert longrifles from TOW's kit.
I still have time to consider what lock to use, and the wood thickness in the lock plate panel to barrel channel area is about 13/32" wide on the pre-carved stock. If there is another project for me in the future of an 18th century flintlock I will also consider using the swamped barrel which I assume make for a more balanced rifle.
Once again thanks for all the advice and replies and when I can, I will keep people updated on this build.
Dave, yes I would definitely say I am a beginner.
Putting together a kit usually only involves filing, fitting, and finishing were much of the harder tasks are already done by a machine and factory employees. I have a couple of book sources to draw from, such as the Sam Fadala and Dale Storey book on Black Powder Hobby Gunsmithing which has what seems to be decent information on pre-packaged kit builds.
I only have one book on scratch builds which I can draw some info from, which would be George Lauber's book How to build a flintlock-rifle or pistol which I think I would have to fill in the blanks on some of the problems I would probably run into. I should probably look into acquiring a copy of the Buchele and Shumway book when possible.
Thank goodness for places like this forum and the knowledge gathered by people who did things before I ever decided to take these hobbies up and without the help of internet or video sources.
I am finding that scratch builds require thinking from a few different angles on how to approach certain tasks and miscalculating the order of even small details can lead to new problems that might have to be solved in a few different ways.
I ordered the pre-carved stock from TOW and bought a barrel from MBS, which I have both been delivered already. Dave, your advice on going with the Siler lock seems sound considering this is how most people have probably built their Dickert longrifles from TOW's kit.
I still have time to consider what lock to use, and the wood thickness in the lock plate panel to barrel channel area is about 13/32" wide on the pre-carved stock. If there is another project for me in the future of an 18th century flintlock I will also consider using the swamped barrel which I assume make for a more balanced rifle.
Once again thanks for all the advice and replies and when I can, I will keep people updated on this build.
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