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New Dickert Slow Build Start & Opinions On Colerain Barrels

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Thank you everyone for the advice and replies.

Dave, yes I would definitely say I am a beginner.

Putting together a kit usually only involves filing, fitting, and finishing were much of the harder tasks are already done by a machine and factory employees. I have a couple of book sources to draw from, such as the Sam Fadala and Dale Storey book on Black Powder Hobby Gunsmithing which has what seems to be decent information on pre-packaged kit builds.

I only have one book on scratch builds which I can draw some info from, which would be George Lauber's book How to build a flintlock-rifle or pistol which I think I would have to fill in the blanks on some of the problems I would probably run into. I should probably look into acquiring a copy of the Buchele and Shumway book when possible.

Thank goodness for places like this forum and the knowledge gathered by people who did things before I ever decided to take these hobbies up and without the help of internet or video sources.

I am finding that scratch builds require thinking from a few different angles on how to approach certain tasks and miscalculating the order of even small details can lead to new problems that might have to be solved in a few different ways.

I ordered the pre-carved stock from TOW and bought a barrel from MBS, which I have both been delivered already. Dave, your advice on going with the Siler lock seems sound considering this is how most people have probably built their Dickert longrifles from TOW's kit.

I still have time to consider what lock to use, and the wood thickness in the lock plate panel to barrel channel area is about 13/32" wide on the pre-carved stock. If there is another project for me in the future of an 18th century flintlock I will also consider using the swamped barrel which I assume make for a more balanced rifle.

Once again thanks for all the advice and replies and when I can, I will keep people updated on this build.
 
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What I like with a plank is you need all the parts and large paper to draw the gun on so each part is in place along with drop and length of pull. Triggers are fit on paper and all carving is also drawn on paper before marking the stock. A lot of time is used to draw the gun before even cutting wood. Pre cut limits you and if you want a swamped barrel, good luck. It takes 2 weeks to fit one. I will not remove my stock since it needs peeled off little by little with the thin wood.
Now a Hawken was built in 2 weeks. 6 months for a long rifle is fast. At the end you will have a treasure that might be worth $20,000.
I built many Lyman kits and my family wanted carving too---OH MY! I did it but it was so hard and I got old so I will never do another.
Not to deter you at all because you will do it and have a great gun. It is not work, it is art that you will not put down until finished and you will dream each cut. It will consume you.
I went on to build and checker modern rifles that was much easier. I could cut and shape a few stocks in one night after work. But when a friend brings a $300 hunk of plank and an 03-A3 to be stocked, It sure sits for a while for fear to go away. Fear is green and it can take a month to fade. My gunsmith friend up town, one of the best, did not know how I did what I did. I don't anymore either.
 
What advantages or disadvantages might the Colerain barrels have with the 1 in 56" twist compared to slightly slower in 1 in 60" or 1 in 66" twists?

I didn't have the choice. :D

I was looking for a plain rifle, that might possibly represent what a hunter would buy [outright or on credit] at a trading post in the 1750-1760 time frame. Barrel had to be swamped, and more than 36" long.

What I got was a rifle with barrel that was a Colerain 38" Isaac Haines profile, in .54 with 1:56 twist rate on round bottom rifling.

Zero complaints with loads from 50 to 90 grains of powder, and it shoots fine out to 100 yards with my pet load of 70 grains of 3Fg.

Now, could there be barrels out there more accurate? Sure..., but if I'm not using a bench with a rest and sand bags, I couldn't take advantage of them if I had them. ;)
Using body positions when shooting, the rifle takes deer (and rabbits), and once in a great while I might win a prize at a match.

Cleaning? I have square bottom rifling in a .50, a .54, and a .40. I don't find any difference in cleaning. They get dirty when shot. I clean and oil them. Not really a consideration. :thumb:

Ifin the home appliances and the cars don't have a major breakdown in the next few months, and if the overtime angel sees fit to help me out, I'm thinking of getting a Kibler Early Colonial Kit. It will have a Rice barrel, which I think is 1:66 and is square cut rifling. Why that barrel...well because that's what Mr. Kibler is going to sell me with the kit.

LD
 
Hi CA,
Also take a look at Chambers "Dale Johnson" lock. It is similar to the Siler but has a little curve to the bottom that fits many early long rifles nicely. One of the best and straight forward "how to" books is Chuck Dixon's "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle". Buchele et al. "Recreating the American Longrifle" is also very good. Both are better "step by step" guides than Peter Alexander's "Gunsmith of Grenville County" but Peter's book is more comprehensive, although some of his methods make me cringe. You also have videos and photo tutorials on building kits on this forum that will help.

dave
 
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