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Minimum load for .54 GPR

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bobman

36 Cal.
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I need to start breaking in a unfired new one and from what I've read on here 50-100 shots need to be taken prior to serious sighting in.

What is the lightest powder charge I can use for these barrel break in shots?

I am using FF goex and .535 round balls. Final sighting in will be with 90-100 grain loads for deer.

Thanks
Bob
 
Bob,

Several years back I bought a used GPR that had an abused barrel, so I bought a new .54 barrel. Right out of the box it shot 2" at 50yd from the bench, using 70-80gr FFg. Of course, each barrel is an individual and your experience may vary considerably. I would think 50 gr should work fine. Some use even less powder for plinking and small game loads.
Dont forget to give that barrel a good cleaning before shooting.
Good luck.
 
Yep, expect to shoot the new GPR about 100 shots before it settles down. Then you will be impressed!

With a .530 ball, I use 80 grains of FF for target and 100 grains for hunting. The point of impact is different so some range time is necessary.
 
I used 70 gr for both my .54 GPR's, but I don't see any reason 50 gr wouldn't work just as well for breaking in the barrel.
 
I recently finished a GPR kit and it ate up about any thickness of patch I used. Had around 30 rounds with charges 50 to 70 grain of 2F. I wasn't to happy with the accuracy so I mildly got after it with "000" steel wool and it has gone to shooting 9s and 10s since then. Well, when I do my part.
 
To answer your question directly, I'm using 30 grains of 3f under a .530 ball and .018 ticking patch to smack snowshoe hare heads with my 54 GPR. Someone sometime here on the site measured the capacity of the patent breech of the GPR, and IIRC, that's what they came up with. Works for me. It shoots ragged holes at 25 yards and darned near that at 50.

Here's a tip for you: Sight in with your hunting load, whatever that is (I'm using 90 grains of 3f under the same ball/patch), dead on at 75 yards. That puts it dead on at 25, an inch or so high at 50 and 2-3" low at 100. Can't beat it for a hunting load. Best part is, it's more or less right on at 25 and 50 with that 35 grain load.

Using 2f, I'd still try that 30 grain charge if you want a minimal load for small game and general fun. As for using a reduced charge for breakin? Why not! They're dead fun and cheap to shoot.
 
Save yourself a lot of shooting and swab the bore with a 1 1/2", or so square of a green scotch brite pad on the next smaller dia jag. Use a 45 cal jag for a 50 cal rifle, for example.

Oil the bore and scrub about 50 strokes, in and out to remove any sharp edges or burrs from the muzzle and lands.

Clean the factory preservative out of the bore with brake cleaner before scrubbing with the green scrubby.

God bless
 
Or, if you don't have a green Scotch Brite pad you can use some #000 steel wool.

With a small piece pulled apart a bit and wrapped around a proper caliber cleaning jag with a little of it hanging over the front and rear of the jag run it up and down the bore 10-15 times.
Then replace the steel wool and do it again.

After 70-100 strokes all of the sharp edges on the rifling will be gently rounded and you can consider the barrel "broken in".
 
mykeal said:
Sigh. :shake: :youcrazy:

It's much more fun to shoot the gun, guys.

I live under the philosophy that everyone is crazy,but some folks are crazier than others. :grin:

Yeah, it is more fun to just shoot it, but using the green scrubby or steel wool eliminates the frustration of having to deal with cut, torn, or blown patches. And, one can scrub the bore and shoot it the same afternoon. Moreover, if patches are blown after the scrubbing, the shooter can begin to deal with and correct the issues much faster in the process of working up a load. :v

God bless
 
I agree, for me it is NOT fun to shoot an inaccurate rifle for 100-200 rounds just waiting for it to begin to group. That's more frustration than fun. However I do believe there is more going on with the "break in" period than just wearing burrs off the lands. I think the barrel tang is also settling into the wood from repeated recoil, the lock and triggers are smoothing out and the shooter is conforming to the rifle. But lapping the bore to smooth it out will eliminate one variable.
 
CoyoteJoe said:
I agree, for me it is NOT fun to shoot an inaccurate rifle for 100-200 rounds just waiting for it to begin to group. That's more frustration than fun. However I do believe there is more going on with the "break in" period than just wearing burrs off the lands. I think the barrel tang is also settling into the wood from repeated recoil, the lock and triggers are smoothing out and the shooter is conforming to the rifle. But lapping the bore to smooth it out will eliminate one variable.


Good points. In fact, I'm starting to wonder if that doesn't have more influence on the "break in" period than the new rifling.

Another to consider, based on my experience with several GPRs-

Generally speaking, the crown in the muzzle is quite sharp, and that contributes more to patch cutting than rough or sharp lands. I eventually coned my GPR muzzles, but found a short term "fix" before getting around to coning. Instead of smacking the short starter to start a tight combo, just press on the starter harder and harder until the ball finally drops into the bore. It doesn't tend to cut or tear the patch, and as a result the "sharp rifling" syndrome goes away.

If I pick up another GPR, the very first thing I'll do is cone the muzzle, but that's mostly because I like them that way and have the tools. Easy enough to get around the cutting, even without the coning.
 
thanks everyone I'll try the swabing with scotchbrite and or steel wool and let you know how it works out
 
Take it easy. It don't grow back.

And, like CoyoteJoe said: it's not just about the barrel. Those shots get you used to the rifle, the trigger, the sights, improve your consistancy in loading, etc.

Beware shortcuts.
 
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