• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Matchlock arquebus barrel from 1861 smoothbored musket barrel/ questions.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Treestalker

Treestalker
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
4,051
Reaction score
3,739
Location
Third Pond from the Great God Helios
I have an 1861 Springfield type musket barrel reproduction that had a bad bore that I have had bored out to .60 caliber smooth. In order to make a matchlock (my first) The question is should I (1) save the bolster and cut the 'pan' off and install a flintlock vent in the side of the bolster, (least work) or (2) remove the bolster and try to match the existing threads for a breech plug, (probably a pain to match, and to make my own plug for) or (3) cut the barrel off ahead of the threaded area for the bolster and ream out the barrel and tap new threads for a new flint style breech plug (factory standard ) and install a new vent in the barrel itself. I have the skill to do any option. Thanks in advance, and stay tuned for more inane matchlock questions from a rank beginner in rope burning technology!
 
A lot depends on the barrel construction. Some repros have a separate breech section which includes the bolster. In this case it would be easiest to remove the entire breech and thread for a new breech plug. If it's constructed like an original it would be easy to grind the bolster off and install a vent in the existing hole. If you keep the original breech plug you probably would want to cut the tang off and weld on something better shaped for the gun you are making.
 
I think the Springfield has a patent breech so I am bamboozled by "cutting off the pan".
Even if it were a flintlock there would be no pan attached to the barrel.

If it were me and mine.
I would remove the patent breech and determine the depth of the threaded section and the thread used.
I would see if I could acquire a breechplug in that thread.
If I could then I would fit that which would likley mean reducing the threaded section of the barrel.
If I could not then I would see what I could get that I could fit and fit that.
Actually I would probably need a gunsmith to do that as I have limited tools, but it is doable with hand tools and a damn good vice and jigs.
Would also remove the sights.
Before doing anything further
you need to determine if your matchlock will have the pan fitted to the barrel or the sideplate as both were made.
Do not drill a touch hole until the geometry of the pan is set.

Have a look here for a taste.
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7524

111-0073c_small.jpg
Matchlock f.JPG

This is mine. Sorry had to give my efforts a plug.

I based it on the attached drawings. There were errors in the drawings but they were very helpful.
20210302_172417 (2).jpg
 

Attachments

  • Draw_11_MatchMusket.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 213
Thanks Hawkeye and Lawrence; it seems the best course is to pull the bolster/breech-plug, and fit a new plug. Not sure about the pan yet, I do have some skill in blacksmithing, we'll see. I imagine mine will be pretty plain, although the inlays look nice on them. Thanks again, George B.
 
Having considered the options, I have decided to cut the breech end of the barrel off at 36 1/2 inches, which puts the new breech end just forward of the rear sight bolt hole, and thereby eliminates any infringements on the barrel thickness. I will drill out a new plug hole and thread a new breech plug in. Good solid steel and no flies. Here goes. 16th century squirrel gun in Arkansas. I guess I should make it kind of Spanish style, since De Soto came here in 1541, and may have had a few matchlocks for squirrels and such, LOL!
 
Last edited:
Well, got the barrel cut to 36 1/2 inches, took a lot of weight at the breech end. Plenty of meat left, will have a nice round taper to the muzzle. I will drill and tap for a 3/4"x 16tpi plug, now where did I put that 11/16ths drill bit that fits my 1/2 inch drill, Lol! The adventure continues! ( I already have a proper flint style breech plug, if my esteemed son in law hasn't used it for an oil pan plug on his jalopy, LOL!)
 
Dear Tree stalker . That photo graphic listing of all those Matchlocks Lawrence kindly posted . I know Pukka Bundook was involved with are a gem beyond price . Pukka's own M Lock is stunning . I know him well & I used to correspond with Mr Tromner .You wont find a more comprehensive selection. I knew them both through Matchlocks . You must be mindful that these sorts of guns are addictive once hooked there is no stopping .Even now I am itching to make another Petronell which appears to be the most awkward shape stock you could dream up like putting a barrel into a hoky stick .I made one in 1973 for the gunner of the' Golden Hinde' replica along with an Elizabethan Caliver with all the kit. Patron , bandaleers ,rest & moulds . Now resideing in a Winnipeg Museum I considered them' Cheap & cheerfull' &' Rough as bags' but that's about in keeping for munitions grade ships guns .I suppose
. Regards Rudyard
 
Nothing much to add to what Rudyard says above. Yes, addictive!

Nice to see my old gun above, in your post, LawrenceA. :) ............And your link to the best place for Matchlocks one can possibly find!
Doing a search of Michael Tromner's posts will show more details than anywhere else on earth.

Thanks for attaching the link, Lawrence. Michael was a good friend, passing far too early.
 
Well, folks, I have been busy with family stuff for a month; my grown daughter finally married her live in boyfriend and that and medical considerations for my ageing wife have kept me from the fine arts of gunsmithing. But I have managed to find my 11/16ths drill bit and sharpen it and drill and tap the breechplug cavity. Also have fitted the breechplug this morning to within about 1/16 inch (2-3mm) but have a Dr.'s. appointment today so I may get to work on it this evening. I believe it will be easier (for me) to make and mount the pan/cover on the lock plate. I have a big 6 foot slab of black walnut from a friend's farm that is about 10 inches wide (254 mm) by about 2 1/2 inches (65mm) thick, that I hope to cut a stock blank from. It does have some rough spots, so we'll see. This seems to me like a great gun for the outback, have any of you Aussies carried one with you on a waltzing matilda outback? I'd love to hear stories of hunting and survival with such a gun. Thanks for your help, George.
 
You have a curious style & why use metric? but you seem to have got to where you can start to stock . Though not Australian I have carried a Wheel lock in my' swag' in the whats called' Outback.' ''Back of Bourke', or the' Black stump'. Sufficiently to pick up some "Strine' ( With the help of a peg on my nose ). I used the W lock because I had it and did harvest the odd bunny & Roo. I did get to some fairly remote places as I sought old steam engines . Such as the bustleing' Port of Pooncarrie ''pop 74 or some such ( My diary would confirm the exact number )Then walked the Anna branch of the Darling till the only tracks where mine & cattle so I made a rude raft enough to keep my swag dry & swam the grey Darling to catch the mail truck south to Renmark I recall a long hot wait at Red Cliffs when towards me came a huge wall of dust but by good providence I get a lift but we fair crawled along as it was so thick with dust . I get off at the Dunmuckle turn off but had a battle just to get enough cover to sleep it out . The Port incidentaly was once the stopping place for paddle steamers who brought wool from the interior Sheep stations . I did hunt with an improvised Matchlock up near Dampier WA worked 6 & a half mounths in 1966 I was a' New chum' then . heading up from Perth I asked a fellow who knew Dampier & I says" Whats it like ? "He replied ' Its heat dust & fly's" He got that right . Echuca' s Port was my second home . However I digress just threw it in since you seemed fascinated with the notion .
Rudyard
 
You have a curious style & why use metric? but you seem to have got to where you can start to stock . Though not Australian I have carried a Wheel lock in my' swag' in the whats called' Outback.' ''Back of Bourke', or the' Black stump'. Sufficiently to pick up some "Strine' ( With the help of a peg on my nose ). I used the W lock because I had it and did harvest the odd bunny & Roo. I did get to some fairly remote places as I sought old steam engines . Such as the bustleing' Port of Pooncarrie ''pop 74 or some such ( My diary would confirm the exact number )Then walked the Anna branch of the Darling till the only tracks where mine & cattle so I made a rude raft enough to keep my swag dry & swam the grey Darling to catch the mail truck south to Renmark I recall a long hot wait at Red Cliffs when towards me came a huge wall of dust but by good providence I get a lift but we fair crawled along as it was so thick with dust . I get off at the Dunmuckle turn off but had a battle just to get enough cover to sleep it out . The Port incidentaly was once the stopping place for paddle steamers who brought wool from the interior Sheep stations . I did hunt with an improvised Matchlock up near Dampier WA worked 6 & a half mounths in 1966 I was a' New chum' then . heading up from Perth I asked a fellow who knew Dampier & I says" Whats it like ? "He replied ' Its heat dust & fly's" He got that right . Echuca' s Port was my second home . However I digress just threw it in since you seemed fascinated with the notion .
Rudyard
Thanks Rudyard, I grew up in the piney wood of East Texas, and had two friends go to Australia on missions,and my older brother had a friend from somewhere down there. Just curious about other folks experiences. Thanks for sharing, George. P.S. I don't use metric, but some on the Forum from other lands do, so I added it.
 
Dear George. Metric Yes some use it's Bonapartist common market nonsense in my view. I swagged it through Texas too. Normaly hitched about the Globe . Went down to Belieze via El Paso , Brownsville & the Yucatan then a cement Scow to Puerta Cortez & lucked on a working passage to Kingston on a wreck of a Cayman Islander Tramp . Helped save her during a hurricane when the crew left her with just the Captain , Ist Mate, Bosan, & Me to keep her from parting her moorings .The' Kirk B' struck a reef of Cuba previous trip & we left port with a list ..However this is off topic. I am currently stocking up a Mack Vance lock he's out of Texas . Fine gentleman I used to call when I flew out of the airport of Dallas .
Regards Rudyard
 
Dear Lawrence moved to New South. where ? . There is a fellow do's outdoor treck type stuff he posts here on MLF he will know the lurks . Qld was SO good until they got all antigun stupid . Ime knocking up a Petronel not sure what sport best used for shooting or hocky ! .
Cheers Rudyard
 
Dear Chris ke ora . As promised My letter went into the Hays patterns typically bronze mounts & the 36' barrel not sure if Enfield made or general pattern but was very much a NZ conditions rifle what is on the lock & any stamps on the butt plate? There are 4 serviving Hays pats made by Callisher & Terry given along with C&T breach loaders as prizes for volunteers in the 1860s By the Nelsen Provincial govt . I have much info re the ranges, scores, winners, weather ect ect from the Archival 'Nelson Examiner' & 'The Colonist ' news papers . Since I made a study of these prize rifles . . There where the ' Marlborough Rangers' who had at some point the Mont Storm external cappers . I've studied the 1843 Wiarou affair too. . Incidentaly I am about the last of the'' Nelson Battalion of Militia ' ' Raised in some haste that year . But now occasionally called out to act as the ' Challenge ' to modern troops on the ceromonial marching though town with their swords drawn, B'nets fixed, and Bands playing to muster for medals & promotions ect ceremonies. In most towns its a police man on a horse but Nelson has us the' Militia' for the last 30 odd years most have died or not interested but I'me " The rag mans last balloon !" So to preserve a unique body perhaps you might join ? the togs are simple the old Besses & belly box & B net are about it they where just civilians . If you can find the video of the 1992 re-enactment of the 150 th anniversary we put on on Tahhunanui beach I was the Gun Captain & we fired the old 9 pounder laying at Founders Park My Baby ! My Bess is old but most used the Petersolis they come up at NZ Antigue Arm auctions Ide find you a musket . We have togs &' Sir 'Greg Olsen makes caps ect . If your in Town pop in 'Hunting & Fishing Shop ' the gun dept is run by Nigel he was our Ensigne on the Beach that day & Militia .. Anyway lots to think about better go feed the dogs Regards Rudyard .

Just read through this response was for Pukatia Bay Boy Ile PM him se he can read it R
 
Dear Lawrence moved to New South. where ? . There is a fellow do's outdoor treck type stuff he posts here on MLF he will know the lurks . Qld was SO good until they got all antigun stupid . Ime knocking up a Petronel not sure what sport best used for shooting or hocky ! .
Cheers Rudyard
Getting a horse to go with the Petronel?
I am in Leeton now. Means I can access public forest so venison may be on the menu! And no bag limits or seasons. :)
And Griffith Blackpowder club is nearby.
 
Nope .No horse , Not sure they went with a horse , awkward enough stood up . No logical reason then as now any one would fool with a barrelled hockey stick. But they did .

So I must boldly go where no man in his right mind would even think of boldly going !. Its incumbent on me in the interests of science ! .
.(Make sense ? Naaah , I just fancied it. )

Regards & have fun Rudyard
. I know that area .
 
". . . be mindful that these sorts of guns are addictive once hooked there is no stopping." Sort of agree but I did stop. Felt the Lord had been good to me, permitting survival so long. No sense in pushing it.
For those who might not have considered it, I would personally guarantee that given a glowing match and black powder, somewhere, one is guaranteed that some of that powder will ignite. Somewhere. The flintlocks with which I competed frequently went CLICK, my gun always BOOM. Even a light misty rain didn't interfere.
The gun I made was Italian in style, supposedly used in Plymouth, made with a sear bar. For a snapping lock I think a trigger better, but when you must move match-holder against a spring, IMHO the sear bar gives much better control. Besides, the whole gun looks older in style.
For match I soaked old cotton clothes line in saltpeter. Worked OK but I after learned the saltpeter is a no-no for serious matchlocks. Europeans are serious about match locks - See Ulrich Bretscher's Black Powder Page, Making a Proper Slow Match.
"The oldest recipe for making a match I found in Grimmelshausen's "Simplicissimus" (published 1668). No doubt, Grimmelshausen was an expert. He served the Catholic side as a captain in the 30-years war (1618-1648), which was the last war predominantly fought by match-lock musketeers. There, the musketeers used a tightly twisted hemp or flax cord, which they boiled in a pot, filled with ash and water.(They didn't filtrate the ash residue before boiling).Then the match was thoroughly rinsed with plenty of water and dried. After this it was ready for use. As an allowance,
Grimmelshausen reveals to us, what else a match was used for in the 30-years war:
  • Hanging spies and deserters,
  • Timing the relays of the watch. One relay went one shoe (foot) of the burning match. (That was about one and a half hours)
  • Torturing enemies: He tells us a story about a bunch of soldiers who used a knotted match for sawing off a poor enemy's leg who refused to give away information voluntarily."
"
Grimmelshausen gives us also a definition of an ideal match. He stated:

An ideal match

  • is never consumed,
  • burns hot and ash-free, and
  • is waterproof.
Goals certainly never achieved.

A match was always made from flax or hemp, though nowadays, there are s
Instruction for making a homemade match

I usually buy 10 meters of flax cord with a diameter of 6 millimeters, jacketed with a braided mantel. Twisted cords are not recommended: Their burning end untwists and forms a brush. What we need is a sharply pointed ember.

Line a stainless steel pot with a hand-towel and fill it with about two liters of ash from your fireplace. (Never use an aluminum pot, since aluminum is soluble in alkaline solutions !!!) Add 1.2 liters of hot water. Let it stand for some minutes and then lift the towel to filter off the brine and wring the residual solution from the ash cake inside the towel. That makes about a 5% potash solution.

Fig. 3:
Stainless steel pot, lined with a towel and filled with ash. Standing on a gas burner on our kitchen hearth.
Coil the cord loosely, fitting the size of the pot. Watch that the cord is covered entirely by the brine. Then heat the pot until the brine just starts to boil. Cover the pot to prevent evaporation and keep it just below the boiling point for about an hour. (This process is called "bucking" by the textile workers). Notice the peculiar smell which is characteristic of any textile factory!

Fig. 4:
The coiled cord, ready to be lowered into the potash solution.
After an hour has passed, discard the now coffee-brown brine and rinse the bucked cord with plenty of water till the rinse water remains clear. Add a cup of vinegar to the final rinsing for neutralizing the last trace of potash (Important).

Then spin the cord coil in your washing machine at maximum speed and let it dry.

Prepare about 100 milliliters of 5% lead acetate solution using distilled water (or rain water) and add two spoons of vinegar (the kind you use to make salad dressing is OK). If a yellowish precipitation appears, add some more vinegar. (This precipitation would be lead carbonate). Put the dried match in a plastic bag and add enough lead acetate solution to make the entire the cord just damp. Close the bag and tread on it to knead it through. Season it for some hours, open the coil and then pull the wet cord trough your rubber-gloved hand to wipe off any surplus lead solution evenly.

Spread the impregnated, damp match loosely and flat on the floor. This will guarantee it will dry evenly. Otherwise lead acetate would concentrate at the last wet remaining areas of the drying match.

Usually, this match will burn at 20 centimeters per hour. Once pinched between the lips of the serpent of your musket, you won't have to hurry up firing. And note, never use saltpeter to "improve" the match. Such a match would burn far to quick and sparkling and hence is prone to ignite the priming charge unexpectedly.


Warning: Lead acetate, also called "lead sugar", is very poisonous when swallowed, whereas skin contact is harmless. Keep it out of reach of children. Lead acetate tastes sweet. Chewing the leaded match would be fatal.
My advice: If you live with small children, omit the leading of your match. Inform older children properly.
Instruction for making a homemade match

I usually buy 10 meters of flax cord with a diameter of 6 millimeters, jacketed with a braided mantel. Twisted cords are not recommended: Their burning end untwists and forms a brush. What we need is a sharply pointed ember.

Line a stainless steel pot with a hand-towel and fill it with about two liters of ash from your fireplace. (Never use an aluminum pot, since aluminum is soluble in alkaline solutions !!!) Add 1.2 liters of hot water. Let it stand for some minutes and then lift the towel to filter off the brine and wring the residual solution from the ash cake inside the towel. That makes about a 5% potash solution.

Fig. 3:
Stainless steel pot, lined with a towel and filled with ash. Standing on a gas burner on our kitchen hearth.
Coil the cord loosely, fitting the size of the pot. Watch that the cord is covered entirely by the brine. Then heat the pot until the brine just starts to boil. Cover the pot to prevent evaporation and keep it just below the boiling point for about an hour. (This process is called "bucking" by the textile workers). Notice the peculiar smell which is characteristic of any textile factory!

Fig. 4:
The coiled cord, ready to be lowered into the potash solution.
After an hour has passed, discard the now coffee-brown brine and rinse the bucked cord with plenty of water till the rinse water remains clear. Add a cup of vinegar to the final rinsing for neutralizing the last trace of potash (Important).

Then spin the cord coil in your washing machine at maximum speed and let it dry.

Prepare about 100 milliliters of 5% lead acetate solution using distilled water (or rain water) and add two spoons of vinegar (the kind you use to make salad dressing is OK). If a yellowish precipitation appears, add some more vinegar. (This precipitation would be lead carbonate). Put the dried match in a plastic bag and add enough lead acetate solution to make the entire the cord just damp. Close the bag and tread on it to knead it through. Season it for some hours, open the coil and then pull the wet cord trough your rubber-gloved hand to wipe off any surplus lead solution evenly.

Spread the impregnated, damp match loosely and flat on the floor. This will guarantee it will dry evenly. Otherwise lead acetate would concentrate at the last wet remaining areas of the drying match.

Usually, this match will burn at 20 centimeters per hour. Once pinched between the lips of the serpent of your musket, you won't have to hurry up firing. And note, never use saltpeter to "improve" the match. Such a match would burn far to quick and sparkling and hence is prone to ignite the priming charge unexpectedly.


Warning: Lead acetate, also called "lead sugar", is very poisonous when swallowed, whereas skin contact is harmless. Keep it out of reach of children. Lead acetate tastes sweet. Chewing the leaded match would be fatal.
My advice: If you live with small children, omit the leading of your match. Inform older children properly.

Cooking in wood ash, predominately Potassium Carbonate, dissolves the lignin, everything but the cellulose in that rope. It is much like pulp for papermaking is prepared today.

A recipe for making a competitive slow match

1. Bucking


Raw textile fibers contain a lot of lignin. Plants need this brown colored lignin as a glue to bond its cellulose fibers. But you, as a musketeer, have to get rid of this lignin, since it produces most of a cord's ash.

If the match, used in a match lock musket, produces a lot of ash, this ash may drop in the open priming pan while aiming and then ignite the gun involuntarily. So watch out, always blow off the ash from the match before opening the pan of your musket! Even a bucked match yields some ash.

For bucking a rope, you boil it in a potash solution which dissolves the lignin. Common ash, e.g. from your fire place, contains about 10% potash (potassium carbonate, K2CO3) by weight. It is very alkaline. But you may buy the potash in a drugstore, too.

By the way, the meaning of "bucking" is to boil a textile in a bucket (German: beuchen)

Instruction for making a homemade match

I usually buy 10 meters of flax cord with a diameter of 6 millimeters, jacketed with a braided mantel. Twisted cords are not recommended: Their burning end untwists and forms a brush. What we need is a sharply pointed ember.

Line a stainless steel pot with a hand-towel and fill it with about two liters of ash from your fireplace. (Never use an aluminum pot, since aluminum is soluble in alkaline solutions !!!) Add 1.2 liters of hot water. Let it stand for some minutes and then lift the towel to filter off the brine and wring the residual solution from the ash cake inside the towel. That makes about a 5% potash solution.

Fig. 3:
Stainless steel pot, lined with a towel and filled with ash. Standing on a gas burner on our kitchen hearth.
Coil the cord loosely, fitting the size of the pot. Watch that the cord is covered entirely by the brine. Then heat the pot until the brine just starts to boil. Cover the pot to prevent evaporation and keep it just below the boiling point for about an hour. (This process is called "bucking" by the textile workers). Notice the peculiar smell which is characteristic of any textile factory!

Fig. 4:
The coiled cord, ready to be lowered into the potash solution.
After an hour has passed, discard the now coffee-brown brine and rinse the bucked cord with plenty of water till the rinse water remains clear. Add a cup of vinegar to the final rinsing for neutralizing the last trace of potash (Important).

Then spin the cord coil in your washing machine at maximum speed and let it dry.

Prepare about 100 milliliters of 5% lead acetate solution using distilled water (or rain water) and add two spoons of vinegar (the kind you use to make salad dressing is OK). If a yellowish precipitation appears, add some more vinegar. (This precipitation would be lead carbonate). Put the dried match in a plastic bag and add enough lead acetate solution to make the entire the cord just damp. Close the bag and tread on it to knead it through. Season it for some hours, open the coil and then pull the wet cord trough your rubber-gloved hand to wipe off any surplus lead solution evenly.

Spread the impregnated, damp match loosely and flat on the floor. This will guarantee it will dry evenly. Otherwise lead acetate would concentrate at the last wet remaining areas of the drying match.

Usually, this match will burn at 20 centimeters per hour. Once pinched between the lips of the serpent of your musket, you won't have to hurry up firing. And note, never use saltpeter to "improve" the match. Such a match would burn far to quick and sparkling and hence is prone to ignite the priming charge unexpectedly.


Warning: Lead acetate, also called "lead sugar", is very poisonous when swallowed, whereas skin contact is harmless. Keep it out of reach of children. Lead acetate tastes sweet. Chewing the leaded match would be fatal.
My advice: If you live with small children, omit the leading of your match. Inform older children properly.
 
Well that's a double dose of 'All you ever wanted to know about match cord but where afraid to ask !' . Having shot matchlocks of many sorts for years I still don't know the half of them. So it is very interesting to read such a detailed missive. I confess I cant offer better advise . The saltpetre unless very weak dosn't give the ideal matchcord, I have used platted Mac ramy string then run over it with wallpaper size to keep it from unravelling . I was ways puzzled why Indian Matchlocks had such tiny serpentine grips .As apposed to the much larger capacity European ones & vivdly recall Japonese M' cord still glowing slowly in rain after an international match at Bisley in 1980 or about then. And hardly began to fathom the tree fungus ignition of purpose made target guns seem to have . Pukka knows these mysteries perhaps he will add a line regarding them . In a word I'me a rank novice with just enough knowledge to recognise that I don't know the half of this particuller subject though I've made dozens of them. The guns at least .
. .In confused by tecnicalitys awe .
Rudyard
 
Back
Top