is there any way to tighten the spring tension on an uberti 1860 colt revolver? I have only had this to the range 2 times so far, (new gun) I have yet to shoot a full 6 shots without at least one cap not going off. I took it out today with a new set of treso nipples on it, no. 11 caps seemed to go all the way on. on the first cyl. I had one cap not go off. things went steadily down hill from there, on the 3rd. cyl. I had 4 caps not go off, they did go off the second time which tells me maybe fowling is holding the caps up a little. comparing the hammer tension to my 58 uberti, the 58 has a noticable stiffer tension on the hammer. I have shot the 58 quite a bit and I can't remember a missfire, well, except once when I forgot to put powder in one hole. think maybe a new main spring will take care of this? flinch
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main spring tension on uberti 1860
- Thread starter chuck-ia
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flinch, hope I'm not bringing up something you've thought of, but is there a mark or a high spot in the frame / hammer where they are meeting? Is the hammer nose long enough? I fixed a Walker with that problem fir a friend once, there was a high spot in the frame in the hammer slot that was stopping the hammer just short of a reliable ignition.
DC
DC
I had the same thing happen a few years back with a brand new Uberti .44 2nd Model Dragoon. Sent it back to the supplier and it was returned saying no fault found except I wasn't tapping the barrel wedge in far enough. Here's what happens:
If you don't tap the barrel wedge in tight enough you end up with too large a gap between the barrel and cylinder face. When you pull the trigger, the hammer drops and strikes the cap/nipple but the blow is absorbed in pushing the cylinder forwards until it's stopped by the barrel. This causes mis-fires.
Get yourself a spark plug gap feeler gauge from an auto supply shop for a few dollars. Tap the barrel wedge in using a light preferably brass hammer until the barrel/cylinder gap is around 0.004 - 0.005". This should cure your problem with caps not going off.
Be aware that after a couple cylinder fulls of shots the gap may start to widen again and the wedge may need an occasional tap to keep it in tight.
It worked for me. Good luck,
Tight Wad :hatsoff:
If you don't tap the barrel wedge in tight enough you end up with too large a gap between the barrel and cylinder face. When you pull the trigger, the hammer drops and strikes the cap/nipple but the blow is absorbed in pushing the cylinder forwards until it's stopped by the barrel. This causes mis-fires.
Get yourself a spark plug gap feeler gauge from an auto supply shop for a few dollars. Tap the barrel wedge in using a light preferably brass hammer until the barrel/cylinder gap is around 0.004 - 0.005". This should cure your problem with caps not going off.
Be aware that after a couple cylinder fulls of shots the gap may start to widen again and the wedge may need an occasional tap to keep it in tight.
It worked for me. Good luck,
Tight Wad :hatsoff:
thought that might be the problem with the original nipples, after putting in the treso nipples I noticed they were a little longer as the hammer was actually resting on the nipple, while putting force on the hammer the cyl. would not move back and forth. with the original nipples in I can push forward on the hammer and there is a little cyl play. I will try it with the wedged in a little tighter though, thanks flinch
montanadan
40 Cal.
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Flinch-most likely your problem is with the size of the caps,I assume the Treso nipples are still installed? I have a lot CB revolvers with Treso's on most of them,with #10 Remmy caps(new style)I have yet to have a hang or miss-fire.The Remington cap's I use are the ones that are 40% hotter.If you can not find them,the RWS 1075 caps work as well.The CCI #11' are to long and will not seat correctly on Treso nipples(the #11 caps botton out on the nipple,before they are actually seated).my Colt style revolvers all run a gap of .009 to .012 cylinder gap,do not set the cylinder gap to tight. Treso nipples are.006 to .008 longer than most factory nipples,they are made this way so you can fit them to a specific revolver..I hope this helps...Respectfully montanadan
Charley Hart
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Check out the hammer as said and check the depth of your nipples. Could be one is seated too low.
This is my main dislike for the colts. My remington smashes the caps everytime!
This is my main dislike for the colts. My remington smashes the caps everytime!
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A well timed and fitted colt style pistol should not batter the nipple with the hammer, but just stop short of it( a little less than the thickness of the cap so it still goes "boom").
Cheers,
DT
Cheers,
DT
Flinch: its tough knowing for sure what the problem is without looking at the gun. Theoretically the hammer is designed to stop a hair short of the nipple, so the nipple shouldn't be damaged. Most replicas aren't made that well so the nipple gets battered and you need new nipples.
To ease off mainspring tension you can put a washer under the screw that attaches the bottom of the spring to the frame. To increase tension- probably new a new spring. Any Colt mainspring ought to work and Brownells probably has heavier springs- call them.
I would first investigate a cap to nipple problem. Some nipples are sort of tapered and the cap doesn't fully seat all the way down, the hammer therefore spends some of its energy just seating the cap. The faster, easiest solution is to buy some quality replacement nipples and caps and try them out. Good luck.
To ease off mainspring tension you can put a washer under the screw that attaches the bottom of the spring to the frame. To increase tension- probably new a new spring. Any Colt mainspring ought to work and Brownells probably has heavier springs- call them.
I would first investigate a cap to nipple problem. Some nipples are sort of tapered and the cap doesn't fully seat all the way down, the hammer therefore spends some of its energy just seating the cap. The faster, easiest solution is to buy some quality replacement nipples and caps and try them out. Good luck.
ValleyForge
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I've found this as well. Add another vote.
You've gotten some good replys and I'd try their suggestions first. If still not satisfied, you can increase spring tension by inserting a tapered wedge of thin brass between the spring and front strap where the screw attaches. Even a lump of JB Weld will work if allowed to set up before installing the spring. The idea is to give the spring a bit more of a rearward angle, thus increasing the preload of the hammer. Check before reinstalling the grip and backstrap. If overdone the spring will slip past the hammer roller. Good luck! :grin:
