I am going to add a few things to this just to insure you don't have a mishap... Just food for thought for removal on all ML rifles.... I don't own a TVM & this is not pointed at them, just kinda thinking out loud about barrel removal......
1: Always remove the RR before ya start any of the procedure. Sometimes the front lock retaining screw has a notch or groove cut in it to clear the RR. If you don't remove the RR first, you could damage the ramrod.
2: Put the lock on Halfcock.... On some older rifles the mainspring is below the lockplate. Have also seen this happen on lock guys have built from kits & they had now idea of what they were doing. Best to be sure. Not allot of locks like this, but I have seen it, so will mention it. If you pull the lock out with the spring below the lockplate, you can damage the lock inlet & tear out a chunk of wood. Putting it on halfcock will usually pull the spring up & clear the lockplate & lock inlet. I have a lock from The Rifle Shop that was built this way. Don't know if they build it or someone else built it. Regardless of who belt it, I think it was built wrong & this should have been corrected, but it is how it is...
3: If you have a sling swivel on the forestock of the rifle, insure the retaining screw from the swivel is removed. Allot of times this screw goes in thru a Underlug mounted into the barrel. You have to take the screw out to get the barrel & wood to separate there or you could break the forestock.
4: If the barrel doesn't have wedgepins or round pins, if could be retained by screws up thru the RR pipes, these have to come out to get the barrel off.
5: One time I saw a rifle (can't remember who built it) and the nosecap was retained with a screw under the RR, screw was threaded into the barrel at the muzzle, this has to come out to get the nosecap loose.
6: DO NOT grab the muzzle of the barrel & start pulling it out...... Real good chance of breaking the forestock this way. I turn my rifle upside down, left hand under about where the entrypipe is, right hand on the lock area, I bump the butt area as the buttplate (heel) on the carpeted floor & gently ease the tang/breech area out first. Once it starts I turn it over & start working it in a see-saw motion & work muzzle & breech & work the barrel out.
7: If it is hanging up.... DO NOT FORCE IT !! :shake: Investigate Why... it is hanging up & insure you have everything loose before proceeding. Some barrel had 2 pins, some 3,4, saw one with 5 round pins retaining it. so be sure you didn't miss one.
Keith Lisle