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Linseed oil as rust preventative

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guncobbler

40 Cal.
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Was in the shop working on my flinter looking for some oil to rub on a newly polished barrel and all I could find handy was some boiled linseed oil. Made me think that this could be a good long term rust preventer as it doesn't evaporate and actually polymerizes somewhat as it drys. Anyone else use linseed oil on metal parts? I'm thinking of using it under the barrel when I finally pin my flinter barrel in. GC
 
For something like a pinned barrel, I think I'd just go modern since nobody will see it. RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease) works great for things like that.
 
Dixon's book "The art of building the Pennsylvania Longrifle" suggests wiping the freshly browned metal with boiled linseed oil as a rust preventative. I'm using boiled linseed oil on my Great Plains Rifle, but will probably switch to a modern oil on the metal when I have the enough coats of oil on the stock.
Scott
 
My Austin/Halleck owners manual recommends rubbing the browned metal with beeswax or linseed oil also. But they're hooked breech and can easily be retreated when needed.
 
l have a "customized" brown bess that l have been using linseed oil on for years. Use one drop on your finger at time, and rub it in well. You don't want to be able to see it. Or when it dries it will be gummyand varnishey. It works well and is PC. It keeps your lock brite too. But it has to be touched up more often because of the use. Try it.
 
When I finished my GPR a few years ago I coated the metal parts with BLO and let dry, for several days, (you know, because it takes awhile to dry!) The oil dried into a hard shell. The parts that are not handled often still have this hard shell and the parts that get alot of handling, it wore off. Those spots still get a coating of oil/grease/whatever when I clean as does the rest of it. But those parts that still have the shell, still look like the day a browned them. Not sure I would do it again, but that is my experience.
 
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