L&R Lock Question

[BuschFlint99]

I’m currently in the process of finishing an L&R lock for my Gemmer Hawken Kit. Can someone give me some tips, tricks, pointers on how to finish a lock? I have never done one before.

Note: I have a mainspring vise on the way from TOTW so I can disassemble the lock.

• How do I smooth out the inside of the pan?
• Heat blue or LMF Brown?

 

[billraby]

This might help

https://rumble.com/viz1xz-4-bore-rifle-build-part-24.htmlhttps://rumble.com/vj0pu7-4-bore-rifle-build-part-25.html

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Depending on how historically correct you want to be, the inside and outside of the lock should be polished removing the textured cast finish. Lock parts were not cast when Hawkens were made. They were forged, swaged, and filed to shape. I use a Dremel tool with a round stone burr to clean up my pans. Then I use a silica abrasive disk with the Dremel to polish them. I am not aware of any surviving flintlock Hawken rifles so how they finished the outside of the lock is open to question. However, color case hardening is one option, leaving bright is another, and temper bluing is a third. Rust browning began to become popular in the US by the early 1800s so browning would also be a choice but after polishing off the cast surface.

dave

 

[Eric Krewson]

Like Dave said, little needle files, sandpaper wrapped around little needle files and hours and hours of elbow grease. It is a tedious process but well worth the effort.

 

[EC121]

I use Cratex abrasive wheels on a Dremel.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Since you stated that you have a mainspring vice on order I advise that you get a large cardboard box to lay on it's side and work" inside the box" . Small parts can go flying if things slip and the box should help catch them.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have a gunsmith friend who gave me a stack of these plastic bowls, when I am building a gun each one will have a different collection of parts them. One bowl for the lock parts (be sure to sandwich the fly between two piece of painters tape and write FLY on the package), one for trigger parts, one for pins and screws etc.

I am assembling a new gun today so all the bins are empty except for pins and screws and the brass parts.

 

[Rifleman1776]

One thing not emphasized by the others.........lotsa elbow grease and patience.

 

[Treestalker]

I have a gunsmith friend who gave me a stack of these plastic bowls, when I am building a gun each one will have a different collection of parts them. One bowl for the lock parts (be sure to sandwich the fly between two piece of painters tape and write FLY on the package), one for trigger parts, one for pins and screws etc.

I am assembling a new gun today so all the bins are empty except for pins and screws and the brass parts.

View attachment 101386

Glue small magnets to the bottom of your bowls so they will still sit properly and will 'grab' the parts in the bowl to prevent loss. Sewing supply stores sell small metal bowls with magnets built in on the bottom for holding needles, threaders, thimbles, etc.

 

[Scota@4570]

In addition to the parts organization ideas, I use the magnetic parts trays from harbor freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-parts-holder-57464.html

 

[pooch156]

In addition to the parts organization ideas, I use the magnetic parts trays from harbor freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-parts-holder-57464.html

Yep! I have several of these magnetic dishes from HF. These are what I use to put my lock parts in. Those magnets are really strong!