L& R Manton Lock

[repawn]

Just wanted to post about the new L&R Manton lock I received from Muzzle Loader Building Supply. When researching this lock I was not able to find much and what I found was not very positive. Basically rough cast - no finishing etc.
Below are the pictures fresh from the box. It sparks really well right out of the box and I feel it will work well after polishing. Once the pistol is complete I can give a much better review.

and one very blurry still of it firing:

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Looks like the sear bar drops below the edge of the plate at the rear at full cock. Good luck with that.

dave

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Hi,
Looks like the sear bar drops below the edge of the plate at the rear at full cock. Good luck with that.

dave

That's what they make grinders for.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Hi,
Looks like the sear bar drops below the edge of the plate at the rear at full cock. Good luck with that.

dave

That photo is not at the perfect angle to really tell 100%, although it apears to be an issue as you stated. Not seeing it in person and just going by what I see, I ask you this question: What about shaving some metal off the sear elbow? That would at least give clearance at the lock panel. Most of us would like to hear your thoughts on a fix or at worst, nix.

Larry

 

[repawn]

Tried a closer picture. I would think careful stoning could even things out but I am looking for advice.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

That's grinder work there. You'd be at that for hours with a stone. Personally, I have never been a big fan of L&R locks for a number of reasons.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
You will have to grind off metal at the elbow but it is also evidence that the sear bar changes position on the lock plate when the lock is at rest, half cock, and full. That makes fitting a nice light crisp simple trigger complicated. It does not look like any of those internal parts were cleaned up and trued before fitting on the lock. They look right out of the mold. That means when you do polish the internal bearing surfaces, you will likely introduce some slop in how they fit together. Finally, it is an outrage that any manufacture would sell a lock like that. The sear bar is unsafe because you cannot inlet it in the mortise without it being held up by the wood. Yes, you can grind the offending material away but you better remove enough, not just sufficient to just clear the wood because when the wood swells with humidity on that day of your shoot, the lock may no longer hold at full cock and you have an unsafe gun.

dave

 

[Rudyard]

Well I only know the older Bill Cox L&R .used them found them good . The current lock looks different in the M spring but cant coment if it does look a bit unfinished internals .
.Rudyard

 

[44-henry]

Those lock internals are terrible. I agree, it doesn't look like any machining was done on them. I have seen Indian made locks that have had more care put into the fit and finish and those were still pretty awful. I would return that lock.

 

[sportster73hp]

Not sure the price difference but the Kibler is polished and tuned before shipping. I sound like a broken record , Jim’s stuff is just good.

 

[repawn]

Thanks for the feedback.
My options are return the lock then ? - small pistol locks can be hard to find. Kibler's is one - price difference is about $80.

I could attempt re-working it myself - or send it back to L&R for warranty work - unsure of how that might go though.

I could find someone who redoes these type of locks and send it to them. (of course if it is any more than $80 to do this I might as well have purchased the Kibler's or got in line for a Chambers.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Kibler charges $300, Chambers $290, and L&R $220.

dave

 

[repawn]

I have decided to return the lock.

Anyone know where I could find a Chambers Queen Anne in stock?

 

[The Appalachian]

Something is off, that just doesn't look like any L&R lock I've ever received, internally. 'Course, I buy direct from L&R and not some middleman in between.

 

[MAC1967]

I have an older NOS LH Manton for a build I am currently doing. It seemed better polished internally than yours. On the up side, while I like Chambers Silers mechanics better, the Manton is very fast and quite good-looking. On the down side, the fly is obnoxiously small and I am scared of losing it during this build. The lock is complex and the stirrup is kind of annoying when assembling. The mainspring broke on me . . . but L&R sent me a new better one . . . they were very good folks to work with and quick.

 

[64Springer]

I have decided to return the lock.

Anyone know where I could find a Chambers Queen Anne in stock?

I purchased the big sister for a recent antique 20ga rebuild.

The massive Colonial Virgina lock.

You'll love the quality.

 

[Norman Brooks]

I would send it back, or contact L&R and see if they will do anything about it. Make's you wonder what kind of quality control they have. The last six gun's I built with various lock manufacturers I have had problems with all but two of them. They are Jim Kibler locks. Wished Jim would build all style of locks.

 

[BadDaditood]

I would send it back, or contact L&R and see if they will do anything about it. Make's you wonder what kind of quality control they have. The last six gun's I built with various lock manufacturers I have had problems with all but two of them. They are Jim Kibler locks. Wished Jim would build all style of locks.

An additional 80 for a Kibler is a no brainer…
An extra 180 for a Kibler- still a no brainer

 

[repawn]

Thanks all - already shipped the lock back and have the Kibler Ketland in my cart.

 

[Joe B.]

I always wondered why flintlock design never evolved to keep more distance from sear bar to lock plate edge. Sure would make inletting a lot easier. Have had good luck with L&R otherwise. Great geometry and spark.