Kroil for lock lubrication?

[Baxter]

I have used Kroil for decades on my Lee Enfields and had a small amount available while cleaning my Lancaster. I scrubbed the lock in hot water with a "dash" of dish detergent and a toothbrush; followed this by drying with a hair-dryer and then applied Kroil. I know that others use many different lubricants so, before I order more Kroil with a view to primarily using it on my flintlock and caplock, I'd appreciate opinions and suggestions. TIA. baxter

 

I use froglube with great success and it helps with repeated cleanings are concerned. Seasons the metal parts. More at home on ar15s and glocks, but I have none of those. Nor will I.

 

[Baxter]

Lubrication I understand. "Seasons the metal parts" I do not comprehend. Your explanation please. TIA. baxter

 

[Stophel]

I would NEVER EVER consider Kroil (or WD40, or any other penetrating oil of this type) for lubrication of guns or anything else. I have had no personal experience with Kroil, but apparently it is similar to WD40, but even thinner. That is not good. While that is a good property for breaking loose rusted nuts, it is not a good property for a lubricant. Thin oil like this runs off quickly, leaving nothing as a lubricant or rust inhibitor.

For a flintlock, a LITTLE bit of regular gun oil, motor oil, or some of your handy dandy beeswax/olive oil grease works just fine. :wink:

I think "seasoning" metal gun parts is an old wives' tale.

 

Froglube leaves a film of itself behind allowing for easier cleaning after treating it over time. Its at home in modern guns but I use it on all the guns I make and they work out just fine. I do not think you really need fancy lubes for these guns though. I had my doubts about the whole seasoning thing too.

 

[Baxter]

I have a lot of Rem Oil and "Hoppe's 9" lubricating oil on hand. Thanks for the replies. baxter

 

[Flint311]

I am familiar with Kroil, but it doesn't stay where you want it for lock use. It's a very good product for other uses though. You want to use something that will stay where you put it....

 

[Baxter]

"Kroil, the oil that creeps." Love it but I just lubed the lock with Hoppe's 9 oil. baxter

 

[Many Klatch]

There are lots of things out there to lube a lock. I have used a 50/50 mix of kerosene and 2 stroke motor oil for over 30 years with good results. The kerosene lets the oil penetrate and the 2 stroke oil "sticks" to the metal and protects it. I find that this mix also protects the inside of the barrels from rusting as well.

Many Klatch

 

[glw]

My primary hobby is woodworking and this discussion on lubricants reminds me a lot of the same discussions regarding what kind of lubricant to use when sharpening chisels, knives, etc.

There seems to be no "one true way". I stopped at a quarry recently where they produce Arkansas whetstones and when discussing the matter with one of the managers he seemed to think that the exact lube is less important than the fact that you're servicing your tools regularly.

Probably the same philosophy applies to shooting.

But my personal observation is that WD-40 evaporates slowly and leaves little behind.

 

[Paul_R]

Kroil's a solvent not a lubricant. And it stinks. :td:

 

[Enfield Musketoon]

Tetra Gun Lube.
It leaves a very slippery film for a long time.
I have field tested it to 60 below zero.

Although it smells like the trunk of an old car that has had a body inside of it.....

 

[FishDFly]

Kroil is a penetrate, great for freeing frozen things.

Some oils are for lubrication.

Some oils are for rust prevention, gun oil.

Froglube cannot season a barrel or gun parts, this was discussed in the last week or so along with the MSDS sheet. Claude had a long series of posts on this subject which disputed seasoning of barrels.

 

[AZbpBurner]

A lot of folks seem to take issue with terminology, "seasoning" in particular.

I have cast iron skillets that I regularly 'season' with either rendered bacon grease (to remove salt) plus a little beeswax. Lard, or any animl fats will work. Cast iron is porus to the point where oils will deposit in pores or irregularities in the metal structure.

Modern steel barrels aren't porus and that's already been brought up ad-nauseum regarding the seasoning debate.

I use several materials that produce a tough, surface film, which reduces friction, and also makes cleaning a little easier. Pyroil Silicon spray is one material that excels at leaving a dry film that won't trap or hold residue on a multitude of firearms applications. Frog lube is another. I use both on rifle and pistol magazines, flintlock and caplock mechanisms and also set triggers. It works very well to reduce friction. To say that is actually 'seasons' a barrel is a misnomer, but it does deposit a fine, friction-reducing coating. Some folks may call this 'seasoning', discounting the penetrating properties of the original terminology. Frog Lube leaves a tough surface coating that also tends to pi$$ off the folks who need to know what its' composed of.

Terminology and composition issues are giving some folks around here hissy fits. The performance of the material, and the fact that the stuff does work to reduce friction, and to reduce carbon deposit build up, is being ignored.

Guess I need to start badmouthing Ballistol, which is largely non-magical mineral oil. Nevertheless, a lot of people use it because it does what they want it to do, and not what its' composed of.

 

[matt denison]

"Guess I need to start badmouthing Ballistol, which is largely non-magical mineral oil. Nevertheless, a lot of people use it because it does what they want it to do, and not what its' composed of."

Repeat that... It does what they want it to do. That is the onlyiest thing that matters. If it works then what is wrong with that?

Personally I use gun oil. Hoppes is available so I buy it in quantity and it works on ALL of my guns to lube and protect against rust. I don't worry what the annonomous folks on the internet say, it works , is available, is inexpensive, tested and trusted so I use it.

 

[Baxter]

Ballistol is "mineral oil", Pyroil is silicone..how many other "miracle products" are everyday chemicals sold to and highly praised by folks who happen to get the results they want or think so, perhaps because of the sellers' hype and the expense of the product? Costs a bunch; must be good. ? Hoppe's is good stuff as is dish-detergent, regardless of brand. baxter

 

[Stillwater]

I have used Kroil for decades on my Lee Enfields and had a small amount available while cleaning my Lancaster. I scrubbed the lock in hot water with a "dash" of dish detergent and a toothbrush; followed this by drying with a hair-dryer and then applied Kroil. I know that others use many different lubricants so, before I order more Kroil with a view to primarily using it on my flintlock and caplock, I'd appreciate opinions and suggestions. TIA. baxter

The WD in WD-40 Stands for water dispersant. Tne 40 stands for the fortieth iteration of the formula. The best use for WD-40 is for spraying on the inside of old distributor caps when an engine is hard to start of damp or rainy mornings.

KROIL is the best penetrant I have found for bolts and screws that are rusted fast. It takes a while, but it will eventually work.

I had a set of scope ring screws that wouldn't budge at all. Three applications of kroil over thirty days and they were removed without damaging the screw slots.

Kroil makes one of the best penetrant/removers of caked on black powder residue that I have used.

Bill

 

[StewartLeach]

Finally couldn't resist jumping in here. Have used Kroil for many years as a penetrant, and 50/50 with Shooters Choice when cleaning highpower service rifle barrels used with moly coated bullets. Great as a penetrant, never intended as a lubricant.

Inside a lock or trigger mechanism, any reasonable lubricationg oil will do fine. On the outside of flintlocks, an oil that stays in place and works in dirty conditions is nice, but not much nicer than what you used inside. I bummed a couple ounces of chain saw bar oil from my neighbor- sticky, and designed to work in tough conditions. Just the thing to put between the lug and feather spring. But, if it were not easily available for free, I wouldn't go buy some.

Hoppe's has been in the gun maintenance business for a long time. If their products didn't meet the needs, they wouldn't have lasted.....

White fox