it has its place.. but i think most feel a gun is not one of them.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.
Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades -
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
JB Weld on frizzen to hold powder?
- Thread starter Jim in San Diego
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I agree and I can't think of a situation where would use it on a gun. But I'd also wager that with proper application it would work well closing the fit between the pan and frizzen.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 8,796
- Reaction score
- 3,784
It works very well in stock repair situations but not so much on metal to metal where any shock load is going to be incountered, especially in cold weather application.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2018
- Messages
- 3,224
- Reaction score
- 2,285
The correct way to fix the problem would be to weld the frizzen and plate screw holes, and re-drill it after refitting the frizzen and pan, then using a slightly smaller shouldered screw, the gap will be eliminated. Otherwise, if there’s a tiny bit of daylight between the frizzen and pan, i would let it be and use some 2F or 3F as priming powder.
There are some other thing that can be done to fit the pan, such as peening over edges very slightly or burnishing the edges of the pan and frizzen can sometimes do the trick, but the gap has to be extremely small for that to work.
Welding beads to the pan and frizzen and or soldering to it, will just end up giving you more work to do with a sloppy end result.
Last edited:
And again that goes to the prep. Harder to properly prep small areas to begin with. While I have done small areas on some models I've not done something quite like this. The edge of the pan is narrow, not much contact area so every trick in the book would have to be used. And based on physical dimensions alone I would have my doubts.
Another aspect many people fail at is giving the JB enough time to fully cure. I typically give mine 3 days or longer. Even the 5 and 15 minute stuff really needs a couple of days to come to full strength.
