Identify this lock and some other parts on a new to me rifle?

[ThumperJones]

You can fix the basic crown with a good square. First find the high side based on flat to flat and begin to work it down...… do this all the way around the barrel. Go slow.

Or.... chuck it in a good lathe, level everything and put in a good cutter and have at it. It likely will not take much. More time to set up then do the job. While you are there you can relieve the muzzle if that is your wish.

It definitely won't fit in my puny lathe. I'll be going at it with hand tools this time around! If I can get it filed square I'll be in good shape. I'll try and turn a pilot to fit the bore snug, with a ledge on it to butt against the muzzle to check for squareness. Then I can turn a pilot for my crown cutter and put a clean 11 degree chamfer on it with the tool. The "crown" that's on it now is pretty deep, I may be better off cutting 1/4" off the barrel to get a clean slate.

Wish I had a big lathe...

Good news is it probably can't shoot any worse when I'm done! LOL

Thanks for the tips and encouragement. I'll post pics when I get some materials and get to work!

 

[ThumperJones]

Here's a pic of this goofy lock. There's a definitely a roller where the mainspring contacts. This sucker is stiff!

And here's this horrendous "crown" I have to deal with. Never seen anything this bad since working on Chinese air rifles.

Pretty janky, but the gun has a pretty stock and a nice trigger. I have very little in it, so may as well see if I can make her a shooter.

 

[ThumperJones]

Alright, hang on tight, here we go!

First, have to make a pilot to keep the crown tool centered. I like to use brass, but this chunk of aluminum is close to final dimension and will be just fine.

Getting ahead of ourselves, I still need to file down the muzzle to get into clean rifling. Then square it up. Too much metal to remove, and I'm too lazy, so it gets the hacksaw. Welp, we've signed the dotted line now!

Now to cut the crown, or chamfer, or cone whatever you wanna call it. Using this tool with the tight fitting pilot doesn't require the muzzle to be perfectly square to work just fine. Get it eyeball close and it will take care of the rest.

Now I'll knock the edges off the barrel flats, and knock down the sharp edges of the rifling with a well placed thumb and oiled emery cloth.

I reckon that will have to shoot better. Ya'll let me know what ya think.

 

[Huntschool]

I still think that lock has been modified to take that "heavy" mainspring. I think the roller was put on that pin to adapt that spring...… Just me.... Remember, I am old and stupid...… I would like to know how you follow up on that lock......

The crown job looks great. I damn sure hope that fixes your accuracy thing. Keep posting.

 

[ThumperJones]

I still think that lock has been modified to take that "heavy" mainspring. I think the roller was put on that pin to adapt that spring...… Just me.... Remember, I am old and stupid...… I would like to know how you follow up on that lock......

The crown job looks great. I damn sure hope that fixes your accuracy thing. Keep posting.

I wouldn't doubt you for a minute on the lock. No way someone engineered this thing to be this dang stiff.

I can't wait to shoot it. I'm thinking it will have to be MUCH better. I'll keep you in the loop. Thanks bud!

 

[ThumperJones]

Well I'm happy to say that the crown job seems to have worked. Didn't make it to the range where I had a steady bench and all my tools, but managed to do some shooting out in the woods and bang the sights somewhat on track. With 25gr 3FG and a .018" cotton patch it seems to be shooting much better. I shot at the bottom of a wasp killer can (wawst killer in these parts) (about 2.5") at 25 yards offhand, and all 3 shots stayed in the can bottom. That's a heckuva improvement! I'm hoping it will group nice when I can get to the range on a bench and try different loads.

I also lightened the crazy mainspring by a good bit. Just filed the bottom leg narrower all along it's length. Much easier cocking and still 100% reliable. Still a junky lock but it's a better junky lock.

 

[feamir]

Alright, hang on tight, here we go!

First, have to make a pilot to keep the crown tool centered. I like to use brass, but this chunk of aluminum is close to final dimension and will be just fine.
View attachment 4328
View attachment 4329

Getting ahead of ourselves, I still need to file down the muzzle to get into clean rifling. Then square it up. Too much metal to remove, and I'm too lazy, so it gets the hacksaw. Welp, we've signed the dotted line now!
View attachment 4330
View attachment 4331


Now to cut the crown, or chamfer, or cone whatever you wanna call it. Using this tool with the tight fitting pilot doesn't require the muzzle to be perfectly square to work just fine. Get it eyeball close and it will take care of the rest.
View attachment 4333

View attachment 4334

Now I'll knock the edges off the barrel flats, and knock down the sharp edges of the rifling with a well placed thumb and oiled emery cloth.
View attachment 4335

I reckon that will have to shoot better. Ya'll let me know what ya think.

Thumper thanks for a well written informative post. The photos you included really bring life to the post. I'm now going to have to look into a camera. Did you have to file much to clean up the saw cut? What type of file and from which direction did you work? As a machinist by trade, I say beautiful work!! Keep up the good work, Feamir

 

[ThumperJones]

Thanks Feamir! Figured it would be fun to keep up with what I did so if I ruined it someone could tell me where I messed up! And by the off chance I fix it, it may help someone fix theirs.

I repaired a whole bunch of airgun muzzles like this, but I was able to face most of those square in my lathe. The barrel was way too big for my machine this time, so I figured I could get it close to square by eyeball. Worked out okay. The pilot of the tool makes up for a good bit of squareness error it seems if you cut deep enough with it. These tools are really slick, they make a square one too made for facing that I really need to buy. Just been putting it off. It would look like a pro job if a guy had both tools.

There wasn't a whole lot of file work needed. It actually cut rather straight which surprised me too, lol. I just used a 12" Mill Bastard file and worked from 2 directions, 90 degrees apart. I do make a habit of coloring the face with a sharpie so I can see the metal being removed. I have a small square to check my progress, but honestly I mostly eyeball it.

I'm a mechanic by trade, so I'm more "file and hammer"

 

[Huntschool]

Glad to hear you got her shooting. If you are that tight at 25 off hand you should really be able to bring that beast in off the bench. May take some "fining" of the sights as well as load work. I am still looking around about that lock and spring. If I find something I will let you know post haste....

 

[scott-wv]

I know this is an older thread, but I thought I would add my two cents worth to help answer some of your questions or someone else who may have the same rifle and need information.
What you have looks to be a Cheney Rifle Works Prairie rifle. A smaller rifle patterned after a Leman trade rifle. These rifles where built in the mid 90's. They where a full stock maple with brass or iron hardware and available in .36 .40, .45 and .50 cal.
As for the lock, yours looks to be "as manufactured" without any modifications. The tumbler has a roller pinned to it, and there never was a stirrup and link to it.
Phil Coffins was right about the Browning reference, these rifles where originally designed and made by the Cheney brothers in Utah, which where the makers of the Browning Mountain Rifle. In the early 90's the remaining parts and rights where sold and the rifles where reintroduced and a few modifications where made.
The Barrels where made by Deer Creek Products as where the locks. A later version was available in flint, so you may call Deer Creek to see if they still have any parts available.
Buck is right about the triggers, they are a set of MSM (Mountain State Manufacturing) double set, double action triggers that where in some models, but most had a single set trigger.
I hope this helps

Scott