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I got this from my father

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First of all, welcome to the forum from North Carolina.

As others have mentioned, you have CVA. A real replica muzzleloader, made sometime in the late 20th century. Looks their ‘Kentucky’ model with a two piece stock. If bore is in good shape, can be a very accurate shooting gun. Typically not a high value gun (but who knows, current market is going crazy), but being your father’s gun, it moves into that ‘priceless’ category for you. Hang it on the wall. Show off your father’s gun. And if you get the urge, shoot it. People here will love to assist you in learning how to make go bang.

Yea I have no intention to sell it. I spoke to my mom about it. She said he ordered it as a kit out the back of a magazine a very long time ago. She said it was the 70s or 80s. She doesn't know if he ever fired it. But she said it also had a matching pistol at one point.

The rifle has been sitting in the back of thier closet in a box for 30 plus years.
 
Once you determine the caliber, most likely either 45 or 50.
Pick up some lead round balls.
45 cal.-440, or 50 cal.-490.
You'll need patch material. 100% cotton.
Looks like the gun has been neglected but it also looks like it might just clean up good.
 
Once you determine the caliber, most likely either 45 or 50.
Pick up some lead round balls.
45 cal.-440, or 50 cal.-490.
You'll need patch material. 100% cotton.
Looks like the gun has been neglected but it also looks like it might just clean up good.

It's .45 I found a site that sells parts. I bought half a dozen screws and a new nipple thing. I pulled it apart and cleaned it out. There is no pitting in or outside the barrel. There's a little bit on the plate that holds the hammer. I have some cold blue left so I'm just gonna redo it. I also polished all the brass.

I plan on trying to shoot it soon, so I'm gonna order my supplies here in the next day or so. I have caps, powder, patch, balls, a holder thing for the caps and a tube/funnel that measures powder.

Do I need anything else?
 
Short starter is a good thing to have. I also have a 45 caliber rifle.
My best load is 60 grains of 3f powder. I like Swiss myself but it's a bit pricey. Goex brand or Old Ensyford is good stuff too.
For patches, I use Oxyoke cotton, the .010" thick.
For lube, I use good old spit or Crisco shortening.
 
Looks just like the CVA kit that I assembled and used to shoot my first muzzleloader deer back in the early 70's.
 
I didnt see anyone mention it yet ? but ask/look for any local groups or ML clubs, go visit , take your rifle , ask questions, OBSERVE !

If anyone knows of groups/clubs in his area let him know !!!
 
I can’t tell much difference with a brass sight. The slope front or backwards doesn’t seem to matter. Mine is currently on backwards.
 
It's .45 I found a site that sells parts. I bought half a dozen screws and a new nipple thing. I pulled it apart and cleaned it out. There is no pitting in or outside the barrel. There's a little bit on the plate that holds the hammer. I have some cold blue left so I'm just gonna redo it. I also polished all the brass.

I plan on trying to shoot it soon, so I'm gonna order my supplies here in the next day or so. I have caps, powder, patch, balls, a holder thing for the caps and a tube/funnel that measures powder.

Do I need anything else?

Welcome to the forum and the Addiction.
My parents bought me a CVA Kentucky rifle kit just like that one in 1979. I killed lots of game with it, using 60 grs of powder and a 440 ball. I used cut patches, about the size of a tin of caps, and spit for lube. I once outshot a guy with a 30/30, so they will shoot straight.

CVA later made them in 50 caliber, the early ones were 45.

Enjoy.
 
Anyone have a good video or blog to get me started with this rifle/style in particular? I have a bunch of firearm cleaning equipment. Any idea on the caliber of this? It looks 50 to me. But I could be wrong.
Look up Black Powder Maniac Shooter. His real name is Mark Humphries. He has made many videos that could help get you started. Just google what you want to know and usually something will appear.
 
I live on the Treasure coast of Florida. I used the method above to check it wasn't loaded.
I'm in the Jacksonville Florida area. I am a volunteer instructor for the FWC, and I run the muzzleloading station on our range day. If I can help, let me know.
 
That was my first Rifle kit in the late 70's. It makes me happy to see that you are honoring your Dad by getting it back in shape and shooting it. Welcome to the forum and have fun shooting!
 
When I was a teenie got one NC gun from an old collector. He had bought it from a private house in NC about 1941. I suspect it was used by the NC cavalry, who were said to prefer flint locks. No little cap to mess with, I suppose. Probably came into NC through that port in Wilmington. 14" barrel, does a job on one's left ear when fired with ball.
1624897926576.png

1624898053710.png
 
1) for those still worried his rifle might be loaded - read his post stating that he has cleaned it and found "no rust or pitting Inside or out".
I would say one way or another he has that base covered.

2) Quick easy way to check a muzzleloader is not loaded:
With barrel straight up, Drop the ramrod down the barrel (metal tip first if both are not)
If you hear "Tink" and it Bounces back up - 99.9% barrel is empty and clear
But if you hear "Thump" and the rod dont bounce back up, then Something is in there; lost patch, a charge, a ball, all the above.

Eyeball marking the rod on the outside of the barrel may be off (ie: "eyeballed").
Marking the rod should be done from Within the barrel: meaning you Must start with a known Empty barrel.

But then most experienced reenactors who have performed in battle know this.

Marking the Ramrod:
1) With a known Empty barrel, drop ramrod down, mark rod - THIS is an Empty Barrel
2) At the range, load your charge (powder, patch, ball - fully seated). Put the ramrod back down the barrel again and Mark the rod - THIS is your Loaded Mark.
 
When I was a teenie got one NC gun from an old collector. He had bought it from a private house in NC about 1941. I suspect it was used by the NC cavalry, who were said to prefer flint locks. No little cap to mess with, I suppose. Probably came into NC through that port in Wilmington. 14" barrel, does a job on one's left ear when fired with ball.
View attachment 82896
View attachment 82898
Nice Paget carbine not normally rifled, oddly the sling ' rib' is wrong way round barrels normally 16".Considering they where sometimes regarded as of little use they where made over a long period later rifled & percussion . I have a Portugese Paget made by Wheeler in UK .Nice little guns .
Rudyard
 
I have the same rifle. CVA Kentucky two-piece. Mine is 45 caliber, but they were made in 50 too. It was my main match gun till I recently switched to flint. VERY accurate shooter. So far as hunting with it, I've taken 3 deer with mine - 45 cal, Patched roundball over 70Gr. FFFg.

I completely disassembled mine and gave it a makeover when I received it from my father-in-law. It was in about the shape yours is in now. The refinished rifle is in the video. I apologize for the theatrics in it, I was 'showing it off' the rifle to my FIL after I finished it.

Kentucky CVA video

The original is pretty chunky, and many original owners just slapped them together. Nice 'easy' project to take on with very basic skills. So far as parts, CVA got out of the side-lock business, but Deer Creek Products picked up their spare parts inventory so there are limited replacement parts available.

I'm just up the road from ya on the Space Coast. Good bunch of folks shoot BP at the Malabar Range around Palm Bay. Couple builders in that crowd could give ya some great advice!
 

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