How to prep stock.

[Crow#21957]

I've always sanded with 220 grit sandpaper then stain the stock. Should I steel wool before staining or something else or is the 220 good enough?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I've always sanded with 220 grit sandpaper then stain the stock. Should I steel wool before staining or something else or is the 220 good enough?

220 is good, but throw the steel wool away. The fibers get stuck in the grain and messes up a finished product. I also like to wet the wood raising the grain, then sand again. Scotch Brite green pads is a better way to go in my opinion.
Larry

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I usually take it to 320 and a light finishing with 400. I wet the stock to raise the grain between sandings. It also helps to show places I have missed. Make sure you look over every little bit of the stock before you apply the finish. The little rasp mark you may have missed will jump right out at you after the stock is finished. I know about this personally. Good advise too about not using steel wool.

 

[Sam squanch]

Get and learn to sharpen a scraper. That’s all I use anymore, for a plain working gun. Less dust in my nose and way less expensive.

 

[deerstalkert]

I've always sanded with 220 grit sandpaper then stain the stock. Should I steel wool before staining or something else or is the 220 good enough?

some years ago i was privileged to spend a day with Queen Elizabeth's coach builders and maintainers. when i inquired about how they achieved the mirror like finish on the walnut doors, and what finish they used, the grand high eunuch in charge showed me two doors.
one just sanded and one with their super secret finish on.
i could see my reflection on the just sanded one just as clear as the finished one.
not saying we need to go to the 1000 grit they used but the more elbow grease used the finer the finish.
i draw the line at 400 grit. but then i am lazy.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Get and learn to sharpen a scraper. That’s all I use anymore, for a plain working gun. Less dust in my nose and way less expensive.

I'd be willing to bet that most of the originals were finished this way. I'd like to know when and where gunsmiths started using sandpaper. Does anyone know?

 

[deerstalkert]

I have heard that shark skin was used in antiquity but do i know? No.

 

[Crow#21957]

Than k s guys that helps alot.

 

[wiscoaster]

...
not saying we need to go to the 1000 grit they used but the more elbow grease used the finer the finish.
...

I think the secret to using the finer grits is that they're used after applying the finish.

 

[IanH]

320, then cheap water based stain. Sand off all the stain if you don't want file marks. Raise grain and lightly SCRAPE until it won't raise anymore. Apply stain or colorant. If you want it sealed well, put a coat of shellac. Rub with denim or something to check for lint stuck in shellac. Blow off dust. Rub on oil, let set, rub off. Repeat oil coats until desired finish.

 

[Crow#21957]

IanH is the water based stain just to Raise the grain and maybe hilite any scratches?

 

[IanH]

Highlight scratches.

 

[Crow#21957]

Ok thanks

 

[wiscoaster]

Highlight scratches.

Crow, you can do that with a light that you can adjust to any angle. Lighting is crucial to seeing the irregularities. A quick light spritz of water spray helps, also. As Ian said above, scraping is better than sanding. Kibler has a YouTube video showing how to make a scraper.

 

[IanH]

Just a light scraping to knock off the fuzz. Nothing better. It really makes the grain pop better too if you use a very sharp scraper to de-fuzz after raising the grain instead of sanding it. Make sure it dries really well before scraping.

Some wood is easier to see file marks and scratches with cross lighting than others. I have also used a magnifying visor and pen light to check for them, works great.

 

[Kmcmichael]

I sometimes think end grain will absorb better if left at 220, helping increase the contrast on curly maple. I’ve raised the grain and not raised it. I don’t know if I can tell.

Ive used scrapers on flat surfaces before and plan to try it on the some curved surface.

 

[wiscoaster]

....

Ive used scrapers on flat surfaces before and plan to try it on the some curved surface.

I got some ornamental sheet metal from the hardware store that's pretty thin and flexible. They all carry the same selection from KS Precision Metals. One brass 4x10 .010 and one aluminum 4x10 .016. I hope to try them out as a scraper for curved surfaces.

 

[stephenprops1]

My great-grandfather was a cabinet maker. (1870-1952). He never used sandpaper, (as told to me by his grandson, my dad). He used glass. He used straight or broken, curved glass to smooth the wood's finish. I have tried his technique and the finalized product is always smoother than any sandpaper.

 

[wiscoaster]

... He used glass. He used straight or broken, curved glass to smooth the wood's finish. ...

That's really cool!! I'm going to try to find some info online about doing it that way.

 

[Kmcmichael]

I think modern glass may be different.