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How to figure out where barrel is bent?

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Got this , unmarked ,and I think , unfinished "C" WT tapered and flared octagon 44" barrel. I suspect it was intended for the rifling bench because the bore measures .555, correct for being cut to .58 rifled. Have looked down this bore 20 times and just can't see any problem. Anyone out there have suggestions on figuring if it is in fact bent , or not. I'm about to put into a stock , and shoot it to see......oldwood
 
A very close tolerance rod would bind at the bend.
A fixture to check run out.
 
Quick and easy way to check straightness in barrels is to look through the barrel and line it up against a straight edge, ie a window or door edge pointing to the sky (in daylight!).

The wall will shade half the length of the bore while the other half will be shiny from the light.

The lines separating the two should be straight and parallel.

Rotate the barrel to check all sides for straightness.

Any ovality at any point will be easy to spot and it indicates a bend at that point.
 
Pietro.....Thanks for the advise. Have only tried to study the barrel inside w/my shop lights. Inner bore surface is a mirror ,so tomorrow will take it outside and try that light. If I knew what to look for, I suspect the section of the barrel is kinked slightly right where the last taper starts about 6 or 8" 's from the muzzle. To be determined...............oldwood
 
Rich Thanks for the advise. When I suggested the bore was .555 ,I was hoping a comment would come about whatever the original intent might have been for this stray cat of an old barrel. It will end up on a gun stock for sure . Waste not want not.........oldwood
 
One outside possibility for the .555 caliber. I've had Bobby Hoyt install smooth bore liners in a few original barrels for guns I own. I had him do the liners in .55 caliber so I could use either .526 or .530 round balls.

Rick
 
Got this , unmarked ,and I think , unfinished "C" WT tapered and flared octagon 44" barrel. I suspect it was intended for the rifling bench because the bore measures .555, correct for being cut to .58 rifled. Have looked down this bore 20 times and just can't see any problem. Anyone out there have suggestions on figuring if it is in fact bent , or not. I'm about to put into a stock , and shoot it to see......oldwood
Get it very clean and bright inside, hang a wire or dark string against a light background. Look thru the bore and slowly rotate the barrel. The string or wire image in the barrel will bend exactly at the spot in the barrel where the problem is. If it remains perfectly straight, so is your barrel. You can slide a thumb along the barrel to mark the spot if there is a bend.
 
An old trick was to run a string through the barrel. Tension the string.
Any bend will become alparent.
Then have the bend point up when in the stock.
Usually twisting it while looking at an edge does work as mentioned above.
Why up versus down? Asking because I have no clue. (LOL)
 
Assuming there is no bore runout, plan A would be to place it on a perfectly flat surface (like a table saw or kitchen counter) and rotate it measuring for discrepancies.

Plan B could be if you have a laser that could be used as well. Use a very sheer piece of paper on both ends (though not at the same time) to judge where the light enters / exits. If it's contacting the bore at any point and reflecting off the bore the exit light will look much more diffused due to the reflection. It doesn't need to be absolutely PERFECT though. Sights are somewhat adjustable L-R by drifting, and up and down with a file.

Regarding pointing up vs. down;
If the bend points the barrel upward at the muzzle, that will give you a lower front sight. Down a higher one. Because barrels generally initially flex downward during the firing sequence (during muzzle flip prior to ball exit due to the fact there is drop to the butt stock) the stiffness is going to be more compromised in the direction of the bend and more prone to bend further with the same amount of force. (the barrel is already started to bend that direction vs having to overcome the initial bend and move in a different direction). Just a theory, but given the same gun with a bend pointed down (vs. upward) sighted for 50 yards with say 60 grains, and then the charge upped to 80 grains for 100 yards, the upward bent barrel may hit 2" low, but the downward bent barrel may hit 4" low with the greater charge.

You could even perform the experiment yourself if you can figure out how to shoot the same gun upside down with the same butt support and resistance. If you do, I want to see pictures of how you did it!
 
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Why up versus down? Asking because I have no clue. (LOL)
Because barrels are generally pointing up to provide elevation for the bullet. Even new ones.
So rather than adjust the sight to get the bullet to shoot up the barrel already has this built in.
If it is too much then a slightly higher front sight is all it takes to compensate
 
Thanks guys , I feel much better about trying to correct this bend. I think it's very minor , but will see. I read in a book about either Boone ,or Kenton while in captivity of the Indians how one Indian worked all afternoon straightening a gun barrel by shooting , and bending the barrel between trees. Don't think this one I have will be that tedious...............And again..thanks much.....oldwood
 
In looking for a bent barrel doesn't anyone look through the bore at a bright light to see concentric circles any more. If the circles you see are not concentric you have found the bend.
 
Mark..........Spent the better part of an hour looking down this tube. Since it has an octagon exterior , have flipped the barrel back and forth over the four different combinations of positions many , many times. I've stretched tight cords over the outside tapered and flared octagons , muzzle to breach , and measured with a micrometer. Nothing.......I'm beginning to wonder , if it's really bent. The bore is a highly polished mirror finish inside , and there seems to be concentric rings up to the last 6" of the bore. If I could convince myself the last 6" were miscreant , would cut and crown ,problem solved. I'm not near finished with this problem, yet. Other guys have given me many more suggestions I have to try. .Thanks..........oldwood
 
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