Rebounding frizzens are rarely the problem people make them out to be. For Flintlock Target shooters who shoot off a bench rest, the Frizzen Spring is removed entirely! Instead, they put a small leather washer between the frizzen and the barrel, using a hole through the leather to fit the screw/pin that is the pivot for the frizzen.
Also, you can either heat up and bend up the TOE of the frizzen, or simply take a file to the underside of that toe, to remove metal, so that the entire frizzen flips OPEN FURTHER when the gun is fired. The Toe is basically a Decoration, serving only as a "stop" for the frizzen when its opened. There is a LOT of metal on those frizzen toes. Removing 2/3 of the thickness of the toe to allow the frizzen to open further, and therefore tip the weight of the frizzen further forward, is NOT going to hurt the function of the frizzen at all.
The Frizzen should move freely on its pivot, but you don't need or want "slop"- sideplay-- or "rattle"( too large a hole in the frizzen for the size of the screw shaft or pin on which it pivots). If any of those conditions exist, address them individually. Don't allow that frizzen spring to put resistance against that frizzen cam in the MISTAKEN belief that this cures everything!
Unless your angle of impact, and height of impact are correct, changing the weight of tension on the frizzen is not going to be much help. It helps some, to be sure, but you still will be eating flints if the geometry of the lock is wrong. If you have any questions on how to do this tuning, send me a PT and I will help you through it. :thumbsup: