How does one repair/fill powder horn insect holes?

[StevePrice2]

You know the ones that are small and mostly round. Is there a trick I have yet to learn or a horner's insider secret? I'm thinking of using a horn dust + epoxy paste mixed to color match for filling them. is this technique correct? :hmm:

Or how about some JB weld and duck tape or make that cow tape? :shocked2: :youcrazy: :rotf: :shake: (just kidding!)

I picked up a couple of cheap old horns that need some help in that department.

thanks in advance.
Steve
PS- I'll post images of them (and their holes) asap.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Use epoxy. put something on the inside of the horn to block the epoxy from filling the horn, add the epoxy compound liberally, and when it dries, sand it down flush. Small holes are really just that- SMALL! Most people won't notice them, and those who do will be asking how you filled them- role reversal here??-- rather than having nasty comments to say about a horn with worm holes. :thumbsup:

Large hole tend to bet patched with pieces cut from another piece of horn, fitted, and epoxied in place. If you know the color of the horn around the hole, you can usually find dyes to match that color to tint the epoxy before you use it. That makes the hole even harder to see. :hmm: :hatsoff:

 

[ohio ramrod]

small holes patch well with a mixture of epoxy and horn dust ( gathered up from sanding horn). When I patch a horn I fill the hole with a mix of mostly the quick setting epoxy and a small amount of dust, then when it has started to dry I sand the area letting the sanding dust fill the top of the epoxy patch.It takes a little practice. But makes a nice patch solid and blends in very well since you are using the dust from the area of the patch.

 

[StevePrice2]

here are some of the holes. Couple of not all the way through. One is nearly 3/16ths another is a split out near the neck and then some extra butt end holes. Both are in the 100 year old plus range. They're my first horns to mess around with. I figure I would goof up some goofed up ones before I go goofing up a nice one. The plug on the one had the initials WP carved into it. Both my dad and his dad share those initials.

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Steve

 

[paulvallandigham]

Those holes near the butt are Drilled holes for plugs. Either leave them, and use them, or cut the end of the horn off behind them.I have seen plugs made from Locust tree needles, and Hawthorn needles. I suppose just about anything that grows needles has seen them used to hold a plug in a horn over the years. These may have been whittled pegs, because of the consistent size of the holes.

The hardest hole you show is that ragged one near the spout, on the neck, because there is simply not much room to get into the horn behind it to seal the hole for the epoxy to mount against. Perhaps you can take a piece of plastic wrap, and stuff it up the horn around a sponge, or soft rag, or even cotton balls, to press against the back side of the hole, to seal it for the epoxy pour. Use enough plastic wrap that you can easily grab it and pull it out after the epoxy dries, and with it, the backing. That tiny hole in the letters( save those if you can) and the larger hole your finger is pointing to in the picture, Should be easy to fill with epoxy. :thumbsup:

 

[StevePrice2]

Thanks Paul and OH ramrod! Yea, the big one at the neck is going to be a bit tricky. We'll see how it goes.

Steve

 

[longshot47]

You might try fitting a brass or copper collar around the throat to cover that hole. Could then secure a carry-ring to the collar.
Worth the time if you really like the horn.

 

[buffcreekforge]

You could do an old-time patch job - heat some pine pitch and mix in some charcoal dust as binder, place some type of backer inside the throat of the horn and smear the hole shut. This could be topped with a thin sheet of copper, brass or tin as suggested or just left as is. I agree with Paul that the holes at the back are for pins for holding in the butt plug - re-use them with whittled pins and a low dome plug and use some of the pine pitch/charcoal dust adhesive to seal the horn. This would fix your horn appropriately and would preserve a beautiful old horn.

Your humble and faithful servant,

Dave

 

[RonT]

I would repair the side hole with horn filings and hide glue (White Elmers in a pinch)and the one near the spout with an overwrap of sinue coated with hide glue.
Maybe armour plate the interior of the side hole with a dime sized piece of chamois soaked in hide glue. JMHO.
R

 

[AeroncaTAL]

Steve, you could also use rawhide wrapped around the horn for a repair. Quite often small animal hides, such as squirrel was used to repair holes in the horn body. That big hole up by the spout will be tough though...
Scott

 

[dlpowell]

You got good advice for the small holes.

For that hole by the tip get a small piece of raw hide and sew over it, using sinew for thread. You can get that braided fake sinew from Tandy and unbraid it.

Allow to dry for weeks beofre you decide to age it.

It'd be PC and HC.

 

[omarick1948]

You got good advice for the small holes.

For that hole by the tip get a small piece of raw hide and sew over it, using sinew for thread. You can get that braided fake sinew from Tandy and unbraid it.

Allow to dry for weeks beofre you decide to age it.

It'd be PC and HC.

Sorry!...But nylon is not PC or HC! That's what artificial (fake) sinew is! Use REAL SINEW, if you want to be more PC or HC! Crazy Crow sells the stuff from animals! Just didn't want you to get steered wrong!....no affence Don! :surrender:

Rick

 

[dlpowell]

Horner,

None taken.

I've never taken the time to find the real stuff. Made do with what was available.

 

[StevePrice2]

Well, I'm in luck. I found a real fresh (frozen now) road kill muley - make that half a muley - this weekend on I-15 near the house. At least one good back leg there for a knife handle and sinew to boot.

Steve