Hawken Help Part Deux

[Ryanlpuckett]

Okay guys, I took deliver of my new investarm Hawken as of yesterday evening. Prior to, I have been assembling tools and resources to complete a fine rifle, a fine rifle indeed . I opened the box this morning, inventoried all the components, which I found all to be accounted and present. I then proceeded to dry fitting. Okay, so a great kit, the stock is simply gorgeous, I ordered some homer brown reddish brown stain, but am now thinking of using aqua fortis to bring out the candy, ah hmm, I mean figure. Can both of these stains be used used? I do not want to cover the figure, it really is beautiful, I wish that I knew the wood they used, but I highly doubt that it is walnut or maple. So the negative, screw alignment is shoddy, I can make due with the wedge plate, as the went in crooked but did level out in their recess. The rear tang bolt will have to be re-drilled in the correct geometry. The current situation is vertical when there is a definite curvature in the tang. But these are all easy enough fixes. The main issue are the barrel wedges. I have inserted them in every configuration known to man, including thoes specified within the instructions. They fall into place and fall back out. There is absolutely no Friction or tension. Any help would be appreciated in getting these to fit snug. And finally, what would be an acceptable gap if any between the barrel and pan. There is a definite gap between where without question some 4f could find its way in between. Overall, I think that I will have to take the inletting back to get flush with the barrel. On a different note, can someone please explain how to use double set triggers?

Best

Ryan

 

[Phil Coffins]

Zero gap is acceptable between the lock and barrel.

 

[Phil Coffins]

The wedges, or keys, must not rely on the escutcheons for fit. To tighten them tap on the barrel loops to bend them slightly to pull the stock up to the barrel.
C0744EA9-2C5C-4462-AA6F-4DC344891BF5 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Phil Coffins]

Double set triggers are used by cocking the lock then pulling the rear trigger till it catches. The front trigger takes little pressure to release it which fires the lock. To adjust the set triggers leave the hammer down on the lock and pull the rear trigger till it catches, turn the screw that is between the triggers in until the triggers trip. Turn that screw back out one turn. That’s a starting point and fine adjusting from there will give the front trigger a light set off. You can use the front trigger without setting the rear at anytime.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

The wedges, or keys, must not rely on the escutcheons for fit. To tighten them tap on the barrel loops to bend them slightly to pull the stock up to the barrel.
C0744EA9-2C5C-4462-AA6F-4DC344891BF5 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Thank you for this Phil, that crossed my mind, but wanted to make sure by running the matter past you guys. I never worked with wedges before, only pins. I will do this probably Monday, weekends are to busy for "Me Time", lol

Thank you again Sir!

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Double set triggers are used by cocking the lock then pulling the rear trigger till it catches. The front trigger takes little pressure to release it which fires the lock. To adjust the set triggers leave the hammer down on the lock and pull the rear trigger till it catches, turn the screw that is between the triggers in until the triggers trip. Turn that screw back out one turn. That’s a starting point and fine adjusting from there will give the front trigger a light set off. You can use the front trigger without setting the rear at anytime.

Okay, got it, work as they should... I knew that it was operator error lol ... thank you again.

Best

Ryan

 

[Grenadier1758]

You will have to inlet the lock a bit deeper into the lock mortise to get the acceptable gap mentioned by @Phil Coffins.

With respect to the stains, try a little in the barrel channel where it won't be seen to see if you like the color. You can put the stains one over the other, but you may find that only one stain is needed. The trick with aqua fortis is applying the right amount of heat to bring that blush of color out. Really works good in maple.

Lets see some pictures of the stock so we can voice our opinion of the species of wood.

 

[NorthFork]

@Ryanlpuckett

Did you not get an instruction manual with it? If not, here is one. Read it well, it covers the wedge issue-

https://lymanproducts.com/media/user/file/t/r/trade_rifle_p1.pdf
Investarms built the Lyman rifles (except for a few Pedersoli built ones). The Lyman manual covers your gun.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

You won’t be disappointed with an Aqua fortis finish. Very nice looking.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

@Ryanlpuckett

Did you not get an instruction manual with it? If not, here is one. Read it well, it covers the wedge issue-

https://lymanproducts.com/media/user/file/t/r/trade_rifle_p1.pdf
Investarms built the Lyman rifles (except for a few Pedersoli built ones). The Lyman manual covers your gun.

Thank you for this, as what was provided did not cover any of what that was covered within this manual. I will be printing this out for reference during the build.

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

You won’t be disappointed with an Aqua fortis finish. Very nice looking.

I used aqua fortis in the past, I think I will do so for this build. Will try a bit in the Chanel, back it down with some 0000, and try the Homer wood finish.

Best

Ryan

 

[Kabulrocks]

The wedges, or keys, must not rely on the escutcheons for fit. To tighten them tap on the barrel loops to bend them slightly to pull the stock up to the barrel.
C0744EA9-2C5C-4462-AA6F-4DC344891BF5 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

On the Lyman kit, those tiny screws were soft and easily broken. I don’t know if they have changed in the Gemmer kit or not, so use caution installing them.

That’s a great job on the eschuteons in the photo.

 

[Kabulrocks]

I’m excited for you, please keep us posted!

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Thank you! I will most definitely do so! Just waiting for the plans sheet to arrive in the mail.

Best

Ryan

 

[longcruise]

X2 on the escutcheon screws. Just throw them away and replace. They are very poor quality and most first time investors builders end up breaking the screw heads off.

The stock is European walnut. Generally aqua fortis doesn't play well with walnut. Be sure to apply to a hidden area such as barrel channel or under the butt plate as a test.

I've experimented with aqua fortis on various pieces of walnut and the reactions have ranged from benign to instant black.

Be cautious regarding the tang screw. I may not have clearly understood your observations on it, but be very circumspect before you do anything. The tang screw goes into a funny little nut that is inlet into the bottom of the hole that is drilled for the tang screw.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Good morning!

Thank you for this information! Agreed, based on a previous post, I elected to purchase new screws, will need to find their sizes.

Aqua fortis, I was thinking about it earlier, and I agree. My concern is getting the stock to dark, so will just go with the original plan, homer dangler stain and tru oil.

My apologies for having been vague referencing the tang screw. I was referring to the final or last screw closest to the buttocks, a wood screw. It was drilled in vertically when it should have been placed to fit the degree or angle of curve. If its not corrected, then the screw will not conform to the recess within the tang.

Thank you for your input!

Best

Ryan

 

[kansas_volunteer]

Get number 2 unplated screws from Brownell's or elsewhere. They are a bit bigger than what comes with the kit, but do fit properly. Redrill the pilot holes to 1/16th. The stock certainly looks like european walnut. You should fill the pores. French red filler is available at MidwayUSA. It isn't very red. I'd stain it with an American walnut stain. Fug the aqua fortis. I refinished a tiger striped european stock for my gunsmith and used honey maple stain. It added a bit of red, and darkend the stock a little but didn't hide the fact it was european walnut.

 

[1stnamebassist]

I used the Homer Dangler red/brown stain on my Gemmer Hawken also. I liked the finish. I used tru oil also, maybe 4 coats but I’m not sure didn’t keep track. The last 2 coats I hand rubbed very small amounts until my hand got warm. Finished with renaissance wax. I refinished my Tracker pistol with the same stain I liked it so much!

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

A beautiful rifle! How did you finish the underlug and the fixture to which the are attached? I was thinking to brown the barrel, the rack and rings. But would rather blue the rings and the rack for contrast. I have seen so many variations of original and copies alike. How did you polish your wedges and the echelons and barrel cap?

Thank you again

Best

Ryan