Glycol Based Oils

[DanC]

Are there any problems using a glycol based oil in a black powder rifle?

Some water soluable oils are glycol based, and I am experimenting with dry lubed patches so I may need to use something like this.

If the container and the product mfgr website doesn't tell you, how would you tell that it is glycol based?

I have some NAPA cutting and grinding oil, which someone told me was glycol based. Tried it out at the range, just straight out of the jug, and no noticable effects (other than probably being too slick like that).It loaded really well and didn't seem to gumm up, and patches looked really good.

Glycol itself is a good lubricant. I soak all my padlocks in it- doesn't harm brass components and they work fine all winter long. But, a gun isn't a padlock, and the only brass component on mine is a jag, so thought I'd ask.

Dan

 

[necchi]

NAPA cutting oil is Mineral oil based.

When in doubt about a product and the company won't tell you, many time the MSDS,
Material Saftey Data Sheet, can be found.
https://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/773757.pdf

If you have Dutch's papers you might wanna read them again. I don't think he recomends using the oils straight, :shake:

 

[Tumblernotch]

You shouldn't have to worry about your rifle freezin'. :grin:

 

[DanC]

NAPA cutting oil is Mineral oil based.

Thanx. I didn't think it looked or smelled like glycol, but wouldn't have been the first time I was wrong.

When in doubt about a product and the company won't tell you, many time the MSDS,
Material Saftey Data Sheet, can be found.

True. I tried to get it off the comp, but all I got from their link was some kind of code. I plan to stop in at the local NAPA store and get a copy next time I'm over that way. I think they are required to keep copies on file.

If you have Dutch's papers you might wanna read them again. I don't think he recomends using the oils straight,

No, he doesn't. He says there is such a thing as too slick, and judging from the results he was correct. Large "grouping" and a larger muzzle blast of unburned powder exiting the bore. But I was fireing and checking for problems with the lube- droping a bore light, then swabing and borelighting again, looking for deposits or other problems. I figured any problems would show themselves faster like this. If it went ok wet n' straight, then diluted n'dried would be less likely to be a problem. Maybe I'm all wet doing it like this, but that wouldn't be the first time either.
:haha:

Dan

 

[DanC]

You shouldn't have to worry about your rifle freezin'. :grin:

Not a bad plan right there- maybe I shud soak my rifle lock in glycol too ...
:hmm:

Dan

 

[necchi]

One of the issues with the NAPA stuff, and I got this from Dutch years back, is it's not made by the same outfit and distributed nation wide.

The NAPA main office has it sub-ed out to different makers regionally. It's primary use is in machine shop and tooling app's to cool, well, cutting and grinding.
So the guy in Utah isn't detting the exact same stuff as the guy in Florida.

I started Dutch's system with NAPA stuff too, I found it wasn't consistant and my finished patch had a poor shelf life, Ballistal was the key.

The trouble with experimenting too much or too broadly is you end up changing more than one variable and have little success.
Thats really what Dutch teaches, a scientific approach to eliminating and isolating variables.

Best of luck too ya. :v

 

[DanC]

The trouble with experimenting too much or too broadly is you end up changing more than one variable and have little success.
Thats really what Dutch teaches, a scientific approach to eliminating and isolating variables.

Best of luck too ya.

Thanx. And thanx for the info on consistancy of their products.

That does help because you are correct about what Dutch teaches. That is why I am experimenting with a broad spectrum of lubricants now- trying to settle some of the variables right off the start. It is a little out of order to look at settling on a lube right now, but I'm having trouble finding decent patch material specimens; so a little bit of trying lube materials while I'm looking may save time later. Eliminating things like poor or inconsistant oils now will help.

I'm also going to try and start casting, as the only balls available here are Traditions, and their quality is about consistant with the rest of their products. So it'll be a long process any way, but may be fun too!

'Preciate the help.

Dan