• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

critiques please

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The brass rod will be ok. I forgot you said it had a brass one so it shouldn't have ends that could pull off. The triggers should have a set screw between them. If the screw is set too tight the firing trigger will be too light and dangerous. Try backing the screw out a turn to see if it is better.
 
You should have a muzzle protector for use with your brass rod. Or any rod for that matter. The muzzle protector will prevent the rod from wearing away the crown of the barrel. Quick and cheap is a 3/8" flange from the plumbing aisle at the hardware store.

Your Hawken should have shallow grooves as the T/C Hawken rifles were button rifled. This means that a hardened "button" or cutter is pulled through the barrel to cut the grooves. Shallow grooves are good for use with a bullet shape such as a T/C Maxi-ball and reasonable patching, such as your 0.015" patch, work fine. Button rifling will tent to have smooth lands and grooves as the passing of the "button" through the bore will smooth the grooves better than most rifling cutters.

You might want to get a rod extension just in case you have to pull a ball and a handle to give you a better grip on the rod.
 
After you set the set trigger, put middle of the pad of your index finger tip on the SIDE of the firing trigger not on the face of it. You can put as much side pressure on the firing trigger as you want and it won't set the gun off, rearward pressure is what sets it off. That set trigger is suppose to make the firing trigger light. When you are ready to shoot then allow your finger joint to bend with the finger pad rolling to the face of the firing trigger when you are SLOWLY squeezing it. You will have better control. Hope that helps you. TC also sells a brass bore guide that fit most range rods. DANNY
 
"IF" the set trigger is to light this is how TC recommends adjusting the set trigger.

With the gun unloaded and uncapped: Pull the hammer to the half cock position, Set the set trigger. Then turn the adjusting screw (the one between the triggers) clock wise slowly until the trigger mechanism "snaps", when that happens STOP turning the screw. That "snap" marks the instant of total set trigger disengagement. Once the mechanism "snaps" turn the adjustment screw one whole turn (360 degrees) counter clockwise. THIS IS WRITTEN IN RED: THIS IS the Minimum setting for let-off travel with the trigger set. If your require additional let-off travel continue turning the screw Counter clockwise until you reach the desired engagement. In NO event, should the engagement be set at less then one full turn counter clockwise from the point of total set trigger disengagement (the snap point).


My suggestion would be turn the screw 2 complete rotations from where it is at now counter clockwise, then follow the above instructions. Hope this helps. DANNY
 
Wow! I really appreciate all the advice you guys have given me! I will let you know how things go the next chance I get out with the gun.

Dan
 
Back
Top