Glue for Forend Cap

[cajun]

What a good brand of glue/epoxy for a forend cap, thanks.

 

[necchi]

Acraglas, Devcon 2 ton, both of those have shown me decades of reliability in application.
Basically a slow set epoxy used by following the makers instructions.
Or you could pour one with pewter,,(it's easy).
Now I'll sit back patently and watch folks tell you to pin it.

 

[BillKilgore]

I used a 5-minute epoxy. It's solid as a rock.

 

[ppb]

You might want to take a look at ferrule cement.
It's a hot melt cement with some serious horsepower - lots more than the artsy/crafty stuff

 

[French Colonial]

I will agree with necchi with one cavate, If your using ebony or other oily woods use some acetone on them a couple of times so the oil does not interfere with the joint.

 

[cajun]

Acraglas, Devcon 2 ton, both of those have shown me decades of reliability in application.
Basically a slow set epoxy used by following the makers instructions.
Or you could pour one with pewter,,(it's easy).
Now I'll sit back patently and watch folks tell you to pin it.

Necchi yep, as soon as I posted my question the same thought came to my mind. Thanks for your help!!!!

 

[cajun]

I will agree with necchi with one cavate, If your using ebony or other oily woods use some acetone on them a couple of times so the oil does not interfere with the joint.

Thanks, French Colonial form the additional info!!!

 

[cajun]

You might want to take a look at ferrule cement.
It's a hot melt cement with some serious horsepower - lots more than the artsy/crafty stuff

Thanks PPB !!!!

 

[cajun]

I used a 5-minute epoxy. It's solid as a rock.

Thanks, Billkilgore !!!!

 

[Pete G]

Epoxy does not last; wood and metal expand at different rates and eventually will loosen. I've seen it happen several times. Use epoxy for a bedding compound AND a rivet and you will never have to mess with it again.

 

[cajun]

Epoxy does not last; wood and metal expand at different rates and eventually will loosen. I've seen it happen several times. Use epoxy for a bedding compound AND a rivet and you will never have to mess with it again.

Thanks Pete G !!!!

 

[Billy Boy]

Acraglas, Devcon 2 ton, both of those have shown me decades of reliability in application.
Basically a slow set epoxy used by following the makers instructions.
Or you could pour one with pewter,,(it's easy).
Now I'll sit back patently and watch folks tell you to pin it.

I had a stock with miss-drilled ramrod hole, after some waltzes and polkas with my chisels and rifling files.…and some 2-part epoxy, I was able to get a proper outcome at the cap/entry thimble. Do what you have to, try not to let it show..

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

What a good brand of glue/epoxy for a forend cap, thanks.

You have already received some replies on epoxy. I would like to add : On the back end of the nose cap where the wood starts drill two small holes for piano wire penetrations. Bend the piano wire in a U shape. The two ends go into the drilled holes with glue. When the glue/epoxy of your choice is place to fasten the nose cap this wire will reinforce the installation. The back side of the metal nose cap can also be scuffed/scratched up for better adhesion. You want to be careful to isolate the fresh epoxy from the barrel and nose cap. Just my two cents!
Larry

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Feruletite. Hot melt archery adhesive.

 

[cajun]

Thanks to all for the advice given it will truly help. I was also thing of using a small screw in the front of nose cap to help support the epoxy. Once the barrel is in place the barrel rib would hide it. Again, thanks to all!!!!

 

[geb324]

Any 2 part epoxy works just use it sparingly.

 

[doubleset]

I've become a real fan of GorillaWeld. Not as stiff as J-B Weld, reasonable "open time" but sets reasonably quickly, drys black, and will bond some things that the J-B has trouble with. Otherwise, my go-to is J-B products in general.

 

[oldwood]

Any five min. epoxie plus a little epoxie brown dye. Tiny imperfections disappear when the stain is applied. To further make it look real , drill and tap for a # 6x 32 tpi flat head steel screw from the top down. tighten and grind/sand the threaded end smooth.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Or inlet to a fair fit and screw it on. These are a factory and a hand done job and both have lasted for fifty years.
6742B3ED-C7B4-4683-B9DF-7D11E725705C by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Rudyard]

So long as the epoxy is pre 1840 high plains epoxy your fine ? . Ime with Mr Coffins on this one .
Rudyard