I'm getting my first Kibler kit lined up, and trying to keep it simple. I've seen posts where maple stocks were a nice milk chocolate brown, and didn't have a shiny finish. What do I use to get that?
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Getting a flat/no shine milk chocolate on standard maple?
- Thread starter leam
- Start date
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Can't help you there, but, as a wood flooring contractor I was once asked by a decorator to stain a floor the color of sweet tea.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Go to Amazon and look for Trans-Tint dye. It's a great alcohol based stain for wood. You have to mix it yourself with denatured alcohol.
Find a brown you like and buy it. I swear by Trans-Tint. I've used it many times with great success. And I'd never steer anyone into a crappy product.
As for not having a shiny stock, stay away from any finish that sits on top of the wood. Poly, varnish, tru-oil, etc. Get a good penetrating oil mixture going and it will keep your stock dull and damn near lifeless. But the grain will still pop. That's the beauty of Trans-Tint.
Good luck with it all.
P.S. Dark Mission Brown on a light walnut. Finished with 50/50 BLO and mineral spirits.
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rich pierce
70 Cal.
Paint would work if you get the satin or eggshell types.
There are thousands of stains. Pick one the tone you like. Really seal and finish the gun well then rub it down with rottenstone on a pad of cotton wet with mineral oil (some shine) or pumice gently (very dull).
There are thousands of stains. Pick one the tone you like. Really seal and finish the gun well then rub it down with rottenstone on a pad of cotton wet with mineral oil (some shine) or pumice gently (very dull).
I like that finish, that's what I'm looking for. It looks like trans-tint comes in 2 oz bottles, will that be enough for a full length stock?
Is BLO, "boiled linseed oil"? It is safe to assume I know very little; if you assume I know even less than that then you're probably right.
Are there particular brands to look to?
64Springer
75 Cal.
Mix 1 ounce of dye with 32 ounces of denatured alcohol.
A half gallon of stain is enough to finish a zillion rifles. Maybe two zillion.
You can make the stain darker by using less alcohol or lighter by using more alcohol.
Some folks suggest a 50/50 water/alcohol mixture. But I use straight alcohol.
A half gallon of stain is enough to finish a zillion rifles. Maybe two zillion.
You can make the stain darker by using less alcohol or lighter by using more alcohol.
Some folks suggest a 50/50 water/alcohol mixture. But I use straight alcohol.
Last edited:
Springer I line that finish too. Looks like a slightly lighter finish than a Lyman GPR stock. One of the reasons I like the GPR.
Scota@4570
54 Cal.
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BLO is not a good choice. I am not sure what milk chocolate brown is.
Watch Jim Kibler's videos on youtube.
I start with Aqua Fortis (ferric nitrate) as a base color for any maple long rifle. If you want to adjust it use dye stains like from Laurel mountain forge.
But really, every stock stains different. You will never go wrong with AF and nothing else.
You can not get usable stain for maple at the hardware store.
For a no shine finish use egg shell spar varnish. I mix in a little plastic screw top from the grocery. Cut it 50% with thinner or turpentine. Add a bit of Japan dryer. I apply very thin coats with hunks of old nylon stocking (no lint). Skuff every other coat with maroon scotchbrite. I do what I do on finishing material because it works and all of it is available locally.
Any on the wood finish can have she shine dulled. Automotive rubbing compound applied with wet steel wool will take the shine off quickly. Be careful not the cut down to the wood.
Watch Jim Kibler's videos on youtube.
I start with Aqua Fortis (ferric nitrate) as a base color for any maple long rifle. If you want to adjust it use dye stains like from Laurel mountain forge.
But really, every stock stains different. You will never go wrong with AF and nothing else.
You can not get usable stain for maple at the hardware store.
For a no shine finish use egg shell spar varnish. I mix in a little plastic screw top from the grocery. Cut it 50% with thinner or turpentine. Add a bit of Japan dryer. I apply very thin coats with hunks of old nylon stocking (no lint). Skuff every other coat with maroon scotchbrite. I do what I do on finishing material because it works and all of it is available locally.
Any on the wood finish can have she shine dulled. Automotive rubbing compound applied with wet steel wool will take the shine off quickly. Be careful not the cut down to the wood.
If it were me I would use Tannic acid, let that dry, then aquafortis, let that dry, blush with heat gun until it's black. Then rub that back almost to the color you want using oil and scotchbright or 320 paper. The tannic acid will tone down the red from the aquafortis and keep the color cooler/colder and more in the browns, and darken any grain available. You will get contrast in the grain that stains won't show nearly as well. Stop rubbing back a bit short of the color you want, then start your sealer with scotchbright or 320 paper to fill the pores and smooth the wood unless you plan to burnish the stock. If you are going to burnish rub back to the color you want and burnish, seal and finish.
BJamesBeck
32 Cal.
I'm not sure exactly the color you are looking for, but this rifle I finished with aquafortis and then tannic acid rubbed back with scotchbrite. Then 3-4 coats of Tried & True. It will shine when wiped down with an oil, but most of the time is fairly dull.
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