Front Pin Question?

[Erzulis boat]

After I inlet the barrel channel on my trans. rifle, and then after the 3/8 ramrod groove was routed and drilled (brace and bit- 1/4" deep "pecks" then clear= totally straight) And after the forend was squared to the smaller dimension. The forend bowed slightly straight down about 1/8" at the muzzle end.

Anyhow, when I run my clamp near the muzzle, I can induce it to tighten up snug when the location of the clamp is about 1-1/2" back from the muzzle, and of course the ramrod groove then also is straight.

My blueprints depict the front barrel retention pin at 3.5" back. If I ran the pin this far back, the slight gap will close, but with only a small amount of pressure. At 1.5" it is perfect.

Can I run the front pin this far forward and be correct within the "PC Window"?

 

[Mike Brooks]

I run my forward pin 4" back from the muzzle.

 

[54JNoll]

Considering the situation I would put your pin at the 1.5 inch mark and not look back. The old timers has stock warpage issues as well and I am sure they would have placed the pin accordinly rather than toss all the work.

 

[Randy]

I agree with 54JNoll, The early builders often compensated for less than perfect wood by altering location of things slightly, or covering them up with inlays or carving a design over them. What you suggest is a very minor alteration and perfectly acceptable. Space your pins evenly then place the rod pipes where they look best(also evenly spaced) Rod pipes and Barrel pins often have no real symmetry with each other
Horse Dr.

 

[Stophel]

My front tenons are generally 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" back from the muzzle. If the gap is "closed" at 3 1/2", then I wouldn't worry about the amount of "pressure".

I prefer to have the tenon pin to not be ahead of the "step down" of the wood along the sides of the rod channel (where it steps down to the level of the nosecap). More wood back there.

 

[Black Hand]

If worst come to worst, you could steam a bend in the end (counteracting the existing bend) so that when the barrel bottoms out, the gap is closed. I've done this a time or two, and may be your option if the lugs are installed and inletted.
Black Hand

 

[Erzulis boat]

Thank You, All.

I ended up placing the pin 2.5" rear of the muzzle.

Not only did the wood "drop" it twisted ever so slightly at the end. At 2.5" it snugs up perfectly.

Fatdutchman, if you run at 2.5" sometimes, then I know I am okay on PC.

This Forum is fantastic.

 

[rich pierce]

If you inlet your own barrels here's a tip that has solved the problem of a gap at the muzzzle cap for me: When inletting the barrel, make sure you have complete contact at the muzzle and you do NOT have complete contact from about 4" back to about a foot back. Relieve just a little by scraping, etc. That way there is nothing in the way that can prevent keeping the end of the forestock firm up against the muzzle.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Of course! :shocked2:

Thanks Rich. I will definitely do that next time.