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fixing a "butchered" gun

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Only Round

36 Cal.
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
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So about a year and a half ago I picked up a "mostly finished" long rifle at a trade fair from a fairly well-known builder. The story was that some guy had brought in TEN (10!) buggered up high quality long rifle kit guns and traded them off for a custom build. This guy just could not drill a straight hole, file a square notch, inlet well or locate parts properly. :(

Quite a few people told me I was wasting my time trying to fix all the problems with this gun, but the wood was fantastic and there was plenty of extra wood if I changed things a bit.

This was originally a Verner stock but after lots and lots of thinking I went with a William Antes Allentown/Bethlehem style, this allowed me to thin things down a bit just remove some of the problems.

The point of this whole post is that even if you think you've really messed things up, there are almost always ways to fix your mistakes!

Here's some early pics after I'd brought it home:
1st pic: Barrel is not even set all the way back, breech plug isn't in tight or square, tang bolt is off center, still a lot of extra wood on side plate side and rear lock bolt is so crooked the front of the side plate sticks out almost 1/4" in front of the lock.
top%20view.jpg

2nd pic: Here's the side plate, note trigger guard is attatched w/ a screw.
side%20plate.jpg

3rd pic: top buttplate screw is off center, lower screw is located in middle rear.
Buttplate%20screws.jpg

4th: Apparently couldn't figure out what to do with cheekpiece, rear of trigger guard isn't in contact w/wood, toeplate holes wander back and forth.
cheekpiece.jpg

5th: Touch hole was actually located behind the breechplug shoulder. Lock inlet had large gaps and the rear of the lock was inlet deeper than the front.
touch%20hole.jpg

6th: Both sights and all 3 barrel lugs were this crooked.
crooked%20sight.jpg

7th: 3 5/16ths steel ramrod pipes were double pinned in a 3/8ths ramrod channel, don't know where he planned to put a nose cap.
3rd%20RRP.jpg


I filled the holes in the tang, lock plate, butt plate and trigger guard by chamfering both sides of the hole, peening in new metal and filing the excess off on the outside. Since the touch hole was actually located behind the shoulder of the breech plug I just put in a screw, peened the outside and recut the threads inside.

Here's the fixed touch hole:
fixed%20touch%20hole.jpg

The rear of the buttplate:
fixed%20PB.jpg

A finished picture of the buttplate:
fixed%20BP.jpg


Since I had to move the barrel back, I would have had to drill new holes through the barrel lugs so I went with keys instead.
Here's a pic of the front pipe, key and nose cap.
Front%20pin.jpg

I was able to hide some of RR pipe holes in the incised line on the forestock but since the holes tended to wander, I just glued in a chunk of toothpick. They do show up, but you have to look pretty close. You can see two in front of the middle key here.
2nd%20RRP%20fixed.jpg


As far as the lock inlet went, I just decided to kind of start over. I planed off about 1/8" and inlet a new piece of wood on top as well as inletting some extra pieces in rear of the lock mortice where it was inlet too deep. The grain didn't quite match what was there before but it doesn't look too bad, huh?
patched%20inlet.jpg

Here's the fixed side plate side, I put in some new wood in the front lock bolt hole but you can still somewhat see the original hole in front of the side plate.
fixed%20SP.jpg

I did manage to reclaim enough thickness in the butt to get a good cheekpiece.
fixed%20CP.jpg

And here is a final picture showing the tang, lock and side plate.
top%20view%20fixed.jpg


See? All is NOT lost!
 
the after pictures look as good as the before pictures look bad. hats off to ya :hatsoff: .
 
I hope you got that rifle for a "song & dance" because you did a LOT of work and did it well :hatsoff: . I would have passed on it -- just me--I rather just fix up my own BOO-BOOs :haha: .
 
so what size hole in the barrel ... how long ... have you shot it? ... what's the asking price?

sure is some good looking wood.
 
I'm thrilled that someone was able to fix up my old gun that I built. I kid, I kid. Even my screw-ups aren't typically that bad. Great job on the renovation.
 
.45 caliber, 42" green mountain swamped barrel. Probably asking ~ $1800.

I'm going to put up another post on the patchbox early next week as the wife and I are headed out for some backpacking this weekend. I'll get some better outdoor photos of the entire gun then also.
 
My mentor taught me many years ago that the difference between a good gun-stocker and a great gun-stocker is how well you fix your screw-ups. Only Round, you are well on your way! :thumbsup:
 
Building a MLer from a blank is easy.......fixing the "screw-ups" is the hard part. You've displayed your skill at fixing the hard part of a grossly failed attempt at building a MLer. Excellent work....Fred
 
Incredible job. You really turned that around. If someone had offered me that gun for free in it's original state, I would have refused it thinking it too far wrecked to even ask a competent builder to try to fix it.

Truly awesome job.
 
Really nice clean up job. You did a great job of making the bad spots hard to see. That said, if I was buying a gun from you, on top of this not being a lefty, I think I would rather have one you started from scratch and that was missing all the BIG fix ups. You obviously have skills so I can only imagine how much better a scratch built one would look. :hatsoff:
 
I'm building an Ohio Vincent Rifle from TOTW.
Can I send it to you when I'm done to fix my screw ups?
 
Holy jumpin!!! I know hard it is to fix screw ups (mostly my own) and I want to compliment you on your ingenuity. It is so much more difficult to repair a mistake than to build in the first place, and the "mistakes" you covered up were huge and many. People shouldn't build guns while wearing boxing gloves.
 
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